Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

So How Terrible Are The 05-06 Model Years, Really?

g.hayduke

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Whenever anything happens on a 05-06 TJ, the year is often blamed, sometimes as a sort of knee-jerk reaction. I admit that as the owner of an 05 LJR, the constant trashing of these years annoys me. Personally, I believe the blame is often misguided. I also believe the issues with the 05-06 models get way overblown and the handful of actual 05-06 issues are pretty easily resolved for the most part ($$-dependent) preemptively. The constant trashing probably convinces some to avoid purchasing some awesome 05-06 examples.

I want this thread to include a comprehensive list of all the actual problems that are truly unique to the 05-06 model TJs along with their favored solutions. Maybe we can use facts to either support or mitigate the hate from some corners for the 05-06 TJs.

As much as I respect @Jerry Bransford, his experience and knowledge, he is clearly the 05-06 trasher-in-chief. So, I'm tagging Jerry so he can add his Knowledge to the discussion.

Here's the list of issues I know of that are unique to the 04-06 model years but please add anything I've missed, as long as it's based on factual information, preferably first hand.
  • PROBLEM: OPDA/CPS- Some have it. Some don't. Some OPDA assemblies caused issues with gear wear that caused timing issues that can throw codes and can cause, in extreme (and apparently rare) cases, excessive wear on the cam gear.
    • Solution: Replace OPDA assembly preemptively but keep original CPS if possible. If using aftermarket CPS, you may need to use a DRB3 tool to properly get timing set.
  • PROBLEM: PCM failure (Auto Trans ONLY) - Some experience automatictransmission shifting issues caused by the transmission controller in the PCM going bad.
  • PROBLEM: Manual Trans (NSG370) issues - Early examples had a known problem with reverse gear popping out and/or being difficult to get in. Fewer also report similar problems with 1st gear.
    • SOLUTION: Redesigned parts were developed and included as part of a TSB to fix the problem. All newer examples and all rebuilts have the preferred parts. Another more expensive option is to replace the NSG370 with an AX15 5spd.
  • PROBLEM: Sloppy, leaking Steering Gearbox - The steering boxes on these years are a German design, less robust than on the earlier TJs. The rebuilt examples are not known to last very long. There may be exceptions (good rebuilts) but an inferior box rebuilt is still an inferior box.
    • SOLUTION: PSC makes a brand new bolt-on replacement box based on the Saginaw box which can be purchased with or without ram assist ports. It does require the lower steering shaft to be modified or replaced with an earlier version.
What am I missing?

My personal experience:

I've owned my 05 LJR with the dreaded (by some) NSG370 for 6 years. It was my first Jeep and, for a while, my only Jeep. My stewardship started at about 85K miles. It now has about 115K.

When I bought it, it had codes for the cam/crank timing. I replaced the OPDA and it still threw codes, but only when cold, until I replaced the aftermarket CPS with an original OEM CPS then all clear. I probably got a better deal on the Jeep than I would have otherwise because the PO probably knew about the cam/crank codes. They had been cleared when I initially looked at the vehicle. They probably saw the CEL, panicked, cleared the codes, and listed it for sale.

I had a code last summer for a bad O2 sensor around 110K miles. I replaced all 4 with the recommended parts from the table on this site. No codes since and runs as good or better than ever since I've owned it.

The codes mentioned above are the only 2 instances of codes thrown in the 6 years I've owned it.

Reverse with the NSG370 was always vague and hard to tell when it was really "in" reverse until it became too unreliable to trust, also last summer with ~110K miles. I went with a rebuilt NSG370 against most advice here but I am happy with the results, no reverse issues, and no other issues that I notice with the transmission. If it lasts another 100K+ miles, I'll be sufficiently satisfied. I like the NSG370 gear ratios. The work included replacing the clutch and associated bits with LUK parts and OEM TO bearing.

Probably around 100K miles, the PS gearbox started leaking. This is another known problem area. I replaced the crappy OEM leaker with a PSC box. Pricey but the most likely IMO to be trouble free with 35" tires for an extended period.

I preemptively (before failure) replaced the radiator, thermostat, heater core, coil rail, crank position sensor, master cylinder, rear calipers with OEM parts. I installed a Hastings HD fan clutch, Durango rebuilt high-output alternator, and all the rubber brake lines. The one remaining preemptive replacement is the water pump which is on the shelf (OEM part). This is all stuff I would do on any 15 year old vehicle that I want to be reliable when taking me, family, and friends to very remote places with little hope of a timely rescue if something fails. There ain't no Matt's Offroad Recovery or Trail Mater in the central NM Outback where I most often go. I usually don't see another person or vehicle beyond a couple miles in on dirt.

Otherwise, my 05 LJR has been rock-solid reliable. It's NEVER left me stranded (nor has any vehicle I've owned, knock on wood). It went into limp mode a couple times until I installed the original OEM cam position sensor. BTW, while this (limp mode) was happening, letting the motor warm up briefly and restarting cured the limp mode until it got cold again. The huge majority of issues I've dealt with have all been related to modifications using aftermarket parts or the rare instances when I've let a shop staffed with so-called "professional mechanics/technicians" touch it (gear shop, alignment). I do everything I possibly can myself.

Are the 05-06 TJs really that horrible? At least the heads don't crack. Nor the exhaust manifolds.
 
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I've owned what, 5 TJs now? Every one of them except the last one was a 05-06.

Never once had an issue with any of them.

The problem is overblown and the internet doesn't make it any better.

I wouldn't hesitate to tell anyone I know to buy a TJ of this year. As long as you buy it from someone who cared for it and maintained it, there is nothing to worry about whatsoever.

Also, you should have said 05-06. 03-04 are different.
 
Is it really just 05-06? I thought some trashing include the 04s.
 
I've had my '05 for 8 years. Proactively replaces the OPDA when I bought it, some wear on gear but 8 years later still fine. Reverse is a bit finicky on my LJ, if I roll fwd an inch in 1st then switch to reverse no grinding. It's been like that since I bought it. I believe Chrysler/Jeep fixed this for the 06 model year.

No other issues that were consistent across the TJ years. :)
 
The gas burp / slow fill problem. I've had both, first 6 months of irritating gas burp when topping up the tank, and then suddenly one day it switched to an intolerable slow fill.

I think that is a problem with a much broader range of model years, not specific to the later years.
 
I think that is a problem with a much broader range of model years, not specific to the later years.

I think that's true, but the problem seems to be better known for those years, as most of the solutions posted on here and elsewhere only work for later years, which have a different filler tube on the inside of the tank.
 
I think that's true, but the problem seems to be better known for those years, as most of the solutions posted on here and elsewhere only work for later years, which have a different filler tube on the inside of the tank.

Really? How do you fix it on earlier years?

I would like to keep this thread on topic (as if that's possible) which is the 05-06 model years. If the fix is unique to those years, it should be included here. Otherwise, off topic.
 
I have an '03 and '05. The '05 has the gas burp issue - I need to replace the fuel filler neck. I haven't replaced the OPDA, apparently it was replaced under recall. I should verify that by checking the OPDA serial number, though. No other year-specific issues so far. I've only had the '05 since 2019 and haven't even put 10k miles on it yet so keep that in mind. It has 145,000 miles. Auto, no trans cooler, 3.73 on 31s, still shifts fine.
 
The gas burp / slow fill problem. I've had both, first 6 months of irritating gas burp when topping up the tank, and then suddenly one day it switched to an intolerable slow fill.

I had that happen with one and that’s probably the most aggravating-

I’ve had 3 2006 models-

They are not lemons, And I was actually thinking they may be the best running ones made if everything is maintained-

What stands out to me is you can just about bet on the catalytic converter’s failing at 70k or over, And what really goes on is for the average guy you get a number of codes and you really just don’t know how to deal with it because you don’t have the diagnostic skill-

The overdrive final ratio is a joke but that’s easy to fix-

The evap system tends to rear its head with leaks-

At the same time on average these should be the lowest mileage vehicles and in the best condition because they are the last produced-

Nobody needs to get a stigma that these are 2005 6.0 Ford Powerstrokes or Yugos- They are just an engine that was kept in production a long long time and the manufacture was trying to keep the engine management in compliance with modern requirements.
 
I need to replace the fuel filler neck


That might fix the splash back but will do nothing for the slow fill. If you want to fix both, the fix is detailed elsewhere on the site but involves removing the tank, removing and filing down ridges on the check valve, reverse/reinstall. The filler tube does not need to be replaced.
 
This is a good post. I think the issues are overblown. I've owned three 05's and one 04. Of the three 05's I've had the 6-speed (shifting into reverse can be difficult), a 42rle (trouble free), and the 5-speed. I really have nothing to complain about.
 
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What stands out to me is you can just about bet on the catalytic converter’s failing at 70k or over

Is that 05-06 specific? Mine are still original and good at 115K miles. I wanted to replace my precats preemptively while I had the exhaust off but also wanted to keep it CA-compliant as original which was next to impossible for a quality replacement. I think Walker makes a CA-compliant replacement but it looks like junk compared to stock and super expensive. I couldn't find anything I could justify buying for the price/quality so just reinstalled the stock units with new O2 sensors.

The evap system tends to rear its head with leaks-

The only evap problem I had was my fault. I ran a new MagnaFlow cat-back exhaust temporarily in hot weather without the over-axle part because of fitment issues I thought I could deal with later.

The exhaust heat was being directed toward the top of the gas tank and melted the shit out of 1 or more fittings that are integral to the gas tank. EVAP leak codes were thrown. Problem was obvious. Fixing the exhaust and a replacement tank from eBay ($400, ouch!) solved that problem. Otherwise, no EVAP issues. All my fault, not the Jeep.
 
I had that happen with one and that’s probably the most aggravating-

I’ve had 3 2006 models-

They are not lemons, And I was actually thinking they may be the best running ones made if everything is maintained-

What stands out to me is you can just about bet on the catalytic converter’s failing at 70k or over, And what really goes on is for the average guy you get a number of codes and you really just don’t know how to deal with it because you don’t have the diagnostic skill-

The overdrive final ratio is a joke but that’s easy to fix-

The evap system tends to rear its head with leaks-

At the same time on average these should be the lowest mileage vehicles and in the best condition because they are the last produced-

Nobody needs to get a stigma that these are 2005 6.0 Ford Powerstrokes or Yugos- They are just an engine that was kept in production a long long time and the manufacture was trying to keep the engine management in compliance with modern requirements.

Come to think of it, the '05 did have an evap problem. I replaced the fuel cap and that may have fixed it, but I haven't checked the CEL codes in a bit. Some of those codes may be from the cat... I don't know if it has ever been replaced or not. If they go out at 70k then I guess it must have been, since it's at 145k now.

That might fix the splash back but will do nothing for the slow fill. If you want to fix both, the fix is detailed elsewhere on the site but involves removing the tank, removing and filing down ridges on the check valve, reverse/reinstall. The filler tube does not need to be replaced.

I bought the GM filler neck from the post you reference. I understand it's supposed to be a temporary fix but if it works for a year that's a win since it should be fairly easy to do. I don't want to drop the tank until I'm ready to do a bunch of other stuff while I'm at it (fuel pump, new tank skid etc).
 
Is that 05-06 specific? Mine are still original and good at 115K miles. I wanted to replace my precats preemptively while I had the exhaust off but also wanted to keep it CA-compliant as original which was next to impossible for a quality replacement. I think Walker makes a CA-compliant replacement but it looks like junk compared to stock and super expensive. I couldn't find anything I could justify buying for the price/quality so just reinstalled the stock units with new O2 sensors.



The only evap problem I had was my fault. I ran a new MagnaFlow cat-back exhaust temporarily in hot weather without the over-axle part because of fitment issues I thought I could deal with later.

The exhaust heat was being directed toward the top of the gas tank and melted the shit out of 1 or more fittings that are integral to the gas tank. EVAP leak codes were thrown. Problem was obvious. Fixing the exhaust and a replacement tank from eBay ($400, ouch!) solved that problem. Otherwise, no EVAP issues. All my fault, not the Jeep.
I don’t know on the year model / cat media- but I do know generally in later years it was not as sturdy - and that is true generally for other vehicles of that era as well-

You are getting to the mileage point that you are likely to see some codes due to evap and cats down the road , but that is why the obd system exists-some Tjs/LJs will do better than others, but on average you will eventually deal with more of these things on later year models-and have a great jeep all the while-

All it has done for me is taught me more and spurred me to get a better scanner.
 
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I've had a 99, 05, and 06.

I think the 05-06 does have some unique issues above and beyond the earlier years, but I think the stigma is overblown.

The only thing I dealt with on the 99 that I would call a design/engineering issue was the brake pad divots in the knuckles. They should have used shims there, period, and it was dumb not to. But that's not unique to a year, it affects all TJ's, and at very least XJs and I would expect probably YJs. I did have an ignition coil fail, which I guess is unique to the early TJ before it went distributorless, but it's not like the TJ coil is known for a short life or odd failure mode. Otherwise it was just maintenance stuff like radiator and water pump, power steering pump, etc that aren't unique to a year range and aren't uncommon for any 18+ year old vehicle past 100k miles.

The 05 had a worn OPDA and an ugly cam gear at 60k miles, but no noise or CEL. I replaced the OPDA preventatively. The NSG370 gave me no problems, but it did burp what seemed like a full cup of fuel out at me every single time.

The 06 had the full-cup burping issue as well. The 06 NSG, which supposedly should have had the updated parts, would not stay in reverse against any resistance at all (such as backing up my driveway). I ended up swapping in an AX15. I have a spare OPDA but I've never even pulled mine to look at it. I figure if it's made it to 130k without issue, it's probably not one of the problem ones.

I'd much rather drop the tank to file down some nubs, or even replace a PCM or a transmission, than deal with a cracked 0331 head, and while I have seen people point out the 2000-02 for that issue, I don't see the preaching against it nearly as strongly or as often as they do about the 05-06.
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts