Someguys 04

pic of the AR to axle bracket.
snowed here yest and into this morn cold as ass. so i messed around inside the jeep.

toximus had mentioned the pump noise and sloshing. rather than expensive stick on insulation i opted to use plywood as a sound deadener and to help form my containment box.
and rather then try and nail a mess of oddball cuts into a single piece, i opted to do individual slabs that i could contour some, and i'll butt join them within the framing, and tape off the seams b4 cladding the exterior over to finish it.

not sure if i care for the invasion of the rear wall over the hump. some of that space may be needed for hoop intrusion. just a rough fit may be altered.

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forgot to mention the shop called Fri.......... back to work on Mon. i work in the back corner all by myself since i don't play well with others. i keep tellin them it's allergies. (i'm allergic to stupid.) but i'm pretty isolated most of the time.
 
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not much to post since returning to work... i did manage to slap together a bead lock. i need to make my anti cone rings.
i was able to get underneath and finish the welds on the frame end link brackets, and got those 1st 2 body mounts switched out and raised.
i finally got the brakes all bled proper.

today i think i can get it moving.....got a few things to check, and i'm gonna pull the rear drive shaft.........then it's time to try and roll again.
i need to get this thing up to the emissions check kiosk, so i can plate it for 2 more yrs..... then i can finish this build.

new winch line is here (not TRE, but is 12 strand dyneema)...... that needs changed out. new soft shackles arrived as well (TRE).

i'm not liking how i contoured the fuel cell box into the tub sides. if i remove those contours it'll be removable, or at least able to be removed without tearing everything apart.
i'm gonna keep the cell as far driver side as i can. this will give me a short reach to the fill neck. and ample space to place the compressor (pass side) and stash some tools.
i do not prefer the weight offset to the drive side but that will fluctuate, where the opposite side of pump and tools would be a constant on the pass side.

i built a pan for my fuel cell....2" deep, 4" wider and longer than the cell. it has a drain bung on the far drive side end. i'm gonna drill down through the tub and install a 3"nipple to the bung,
and if for any reason fuel should ever escape the cell, it'll be contained in the pan and able to drain.

i'm also kinda trying to re-figure this trans line rework. i noticed the pass side is wide open and nowhere near as close in proximity to the exhaust as it is in the factory spot.
i'm really considering bringing them down off the trans case and under the bell across to the pass side and then out to the rad. the way the OE lines route there is no way those lines could shed any temps being that close to the exhaust. the ambient temps those lines are subjected to could be cut significantly, allowing the 7-8' of lines to become part of the cooler.................this make sense to anyone else?

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IT'S ALIVE.......................
it's moving again. got it out on the road early this morn. feels solid.

the struts feel better than the old coils. no dive at braking or lift upon acceleration, to be noticeable. and i've not even touched the dampening adjustments yet.
those baseline settings are holding me right where i wanna be. so until i can really start to try and begin stretching it out, i'm not gonna have a better answer.
i just did about 1/2 dozen laps around the hood. and i need to get a real set of matched tires on here too.

but right now it runs and moves. so i can make it the .85mi to the E-check and try and get those emissions papers.

i got issues with the steering but i'll address that below.
 
steering is all wonky.

i do the same as most with straight edges on the rotors. my reference lines are 15" each way from center.
i played a 3/32" in front against a 3/16" on the back end of the sticks.

no return to center, wants to wander, sloppy response............feels like a dead spot in the center of the wheel.

i do not have the Y anymore this is JK crap, TR and DL are separate links now.
 
TRE's are inline to each other. not seeing any odd rolling.

my womans got the day off so she began havin some beverages early. no steer tests today. only stagger tests.

and it may or may not be odd but it won't crank the 35's planted.....i need to take some weight off the driveway to do
that. while powered is no issue.
i gave the TR 1 turn in, i'm gonna give that a try.

the drunken monkey ripped the door handle off the KIA and i'm stuck fixin that today as well.
 
Wish I could help. What is your caster at right now? I'm no wiz at this stuff.
pinion is 0*, so all 6* is in the castor right now.

lemma add this is all new stuff no reused old crap that might be questionable if it's bad it came out the box that way.
 
front end just now. super bright out hard to get a lit pic of the ends.

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Quick dry steering test should show if you forgot to tighten something. There is nothing inherently bad about that steering set up. A rough idea of caster would help but unless it is approaching a few degrees short of zero, that won't or shouldn't produce the wandering. I'd take a very hard look at the steering gear, carrier bearing on the intermediate shaft, and general mechanicals.

After that if all is good (doubt the steering gear is) set the toe at zero. break the jam nuts loose and snug them back down for adjusting easily. Mark the tie rod and adjust 1/2 turn out from zero driving it to see how it responds, go back in 1/2 turn from zero to see how it responds.

WTF is wrong with your front tires?
 
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Quick dry steering test should show if you forgot to tighten something. There is nothing inherently bad about that steering set up. A rough idea of caster would help but unless it is approaching a few degrees short of zero, that won't or shouldn't produce the wandering. I'd take a very hard look at the steering gear, carrier bearing on the intermediate shaft, and general mechanicals.

After that if all is good (doubt the steering gear is) set the toe at zero. break the jam nuts loose and snug them back down for adjusting easily. Mark the tie rod and adjust 1/2 turn out from zero driving it to see how it responds, go back in 1/2 turn from zero to see how it responds.

WTF is wrong with your front tires?

i can feel slop in the steering shaft b4 the gear even twitches..... tryin to crank those sticky wheels on dry pavement.