Someguys 04

i was able to score those spaces cheap they ended up being 1.25" but that's cool, it's all i needed (40$).
i had those wheels balanced and they ride fine.....stiff, so i'm quickly learning what an E feels like.

got the steering trimmed to 1/16" toe in front, it returns and stays center, still has that follow the low spot in the road drift, but i noticed my Ram does it too so i think i'm being to critical here.

what i do notice is some torque steer this is what i'm feeling moving the rig.
i have a slight torque feeling upward driver side front end during acceleration. and when i get off it i feel it kinda settle passgr side down.

i'm a frankenstien suspension right now of 3link MA in front and SA MC in rear.
 
i found an evap vapor hose pulled from it's seat hoping that rids the CEL.

i managed to get the ARB compressor installed under the hood. i made a small aluminum shelf to bring it up some. fits good, easy to reach everything. i contoured the tray some so the wires all had room.
but still need to get a couple BSP to NPT fittings for the outlets.

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well i got out a bit early today. that steering and torque pull feeling been eatin at me.

i got real serious with the tape measure, i been getting discrepancies going off the corners and from holes with axle placement.
so since i have the Savvy skid up there and it went right up no issues or evidence of tweeking and with hole alignment being dead on. and since the mounting sys controls drive line placement within the frame, it's captured and dictated by this. since the install went smooth i'm going to assume the center belly pan holes are accurate, or at least in line with the frame and drive line as it is supposed to be. therefore i used the center hole to square the rear and the front axles.
the rear is now within a fat 32nd cannot get closer with a single end adjuster. the front is dead on.
the rear pass came forward about a 1/16". and the front pass came back, 1/8".......this was my problem and it feels 100% more righter. 30mph down a nasty old cleveland street with potholes and patches so thick they rattle your teeth and let go of the wheel.........it held straight and rolled over the chit.
to much traffic to play right now so i'll get it out later for better run.

ordered the fittings i needed for the ARB compressor from Summit, 1 tap for the locker and 1 tap for a free lead/filler end. i just got simple BSPT to NPT adapters, i got all the quick connects i'll ever need.
also called up PSC today and ordered up a couple fluid coolers. single pass heat sinks 16" 1 w/8AN and 1 w/6AN for the PS and trans.
i'd like to do a Derale powered unit, like Jerry runs, but maybe later, when i see what space i have as i move forward.
 
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Jeeps drivin sooooo much better, just a stupid simple offset and it was crap. still need to play with the alignment some , but almost there.

made a run just south of the shop today after work and snagged a new windshield frame.

i'm suspecting it's not an OE frame. it's very light and way to clean to have been around for 16yrs. it has just 1 blemish that'll be refinished and will hide under the PS hinge, the rest is pristine.
no glass, and looks like just a single layer of cheap paint i'll need to scuff away.
i'm in no hurry for this but it's was a matter of close and cheap. got it for 150$
i'll get a pic up tomrw

edit: moved the tie rod about 1/8 turn and it's found a sweet spot.....feels great. gonna take it out to the shop tomrw and get some revs on the gears. 50 down, 450mi to go.
 
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today i ordered some DOM (link material) for the rear end. 2"x1/4 wall, for the lowers. and 1.75" x 1/8 wall for the uppers. got the link material from Barnes and the weld in bungs from WFO.....WFO had the DOM cheaper but was a killer on the shipping cost, Barnes doesn't carry the big 1.25" weld in with hex heads anymore for some dumb reason.

i also ordered new 12v sockets for the console, the PO had broken the cig lighter and i broke the 12v supply socket. need a spot to tie in the GPS and a CB radio.


pic of the windshield frame too. that ugly ass orange needs sanded down.

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well i finally had enough of the A/C the routing of the line over the passenger side fender is heating up the aluminum inner fender to a fairly toasty temp right to the verge of hot.
the proximity of the line around the strut is causing it to take heat, as much as the heat soaked fender. so i had the system evacuated, and i sealed it off. i terminated and crimped the lines at the can on the firewall (it's not in the way). the condenser?/cooler for it was removed.

the strut was getting toasted by this A/C line, even driving with a constant fresh air flow it's building heat...it was gonna be a real issue at crawl speed with no moving air to cool it.
i tried some heat shield around the strut tower, it would not block it. nor would several loose wraps of foil around A/C tube at the closest points, it's was just soaking to much of the whole area. i left most of the lines intact and just terminated the rubber hoses on top the motor with bolts (plugs) and clamps for now. and pulled the AC clutch relay as well.

this is reason 1 for the demise of the A/C. 2nd was the fluid coolers.

no way this 16" cooler was going in through the lamp hole without almost removing the radiator and A/C cooler. i had to remove all the radiator bolts and tip it as far back as i could, to get the angle to pass the cooler into that hole. then it won't fit between the V brace and the grill, until it's had some of the fins dug out so it can contour to the brace and lessen it's diameter. fittings are ordered from Summit -6 and -8 AN 90's. and i need to make a bracket to hold it all to the brace.

i got my new dash panel power plugs and those are installed. the ARB is tied into constant at the lighter and switches lamp power from the gear shift bulb.
 
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i been fiddlin with the cooler tubes, getting those all gouged out for mounting on the V brace. and i got some tabs welded up to the V to hold them.
not sure how this much solid mass if front of the radiator will be so i'll monitor the temps for awhile.

thin ass crap i burnt through it a few times even with lower voltage.
this should get them in there. and now without the A/C cooler i have room to stand it off if need be.

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I made my own mounts for my coolers also on the V brace. And it's why I haven't tried to put A/C back in my TJ either as much as I would like it.
 
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got the 2nd one in there and mounted.

and got that 1 plumbed into the trans sys. it all fit well, no contact with anything.

i do have 1 fitting giving me grief, the -6AN 90* into the cooler.
it was dripping at the AN connection, i tightened it just a hair more and it began to drip from what i could only describe as a pressure relief port (hole drilled in the AN collar), i moved things around and got that to stop but now it's getting wet at the back end of the fitting, around the tube of the 90 into the AN connection collar. gonna play with it a little more b4 i start to think this fitting is crap.

it busted loose and started pouring on me......... pics up in a bit.

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i pulled the rear shaft the other day and got a few miles on it. i could feel the driveshaft wasn't real happy and told me so. so today i backed off the caster some in effort to settle her.

and i can't find my digital angle finder for the life of me........then it dawned on me that i had it on the pinion last wk right b4 i took a ride. so i bet it's in the gutter somewhere.
anyway i turned the caster back about a 1/2 turn on the CA. we'll see what that does for the drive shaft.
running on the front axle 5.38's now. it sure is odd to have it lurch into motion when you let the brake off, now.
 
got the 2nd one in there and mounted.

and got that 1 plumbed into the trans sys. it all fit well, no contact with anything.

i do have 1 fitting giving me grief, the -6AN 90* into the cooler.
it was dripping at the AN connection, i tightened it just a hair more and it began to drip from what i could only describe as a pressure relief port (hole drilled in the AN collar), i moved things around and got that to stop but now it's getting wet at the back end of the fitting, around the tube of the 90 into the AN connection collar. gonna play with it a little more b4 i start to think this fitting is crap.

it busted loose and started pouring on me......... pics up in a bit.

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I hate trying to chase down leaks. And when you have a new build it's worse IMHO.
 
I hate trying to chase down leaks. And when you have a new build it's worse IMHO.
i've twisted this fitting 15x, it's tighter than it should have to be. IDK maybe there's a nick in the finish. the threads are sealed, it's the neck into the threaded collar that's weeping. i'm gonna order another...the weeper go in the bag for emergency use only. it's just getting/staying wet not really dripping.
 
so i'm runnin on the new gears now. it's not right for the 33"ish wheel on there but has a lot more pep to it than it had b4.
feels pretty good, no odd noises or anything i'd think might be originating in the diff. got it onto a fairly steep long incline yesterday to really get some push on the gear set...........seems ok so far. but it was my 1st diff build so i'm still leary.

the strut is still taking heat big time. after a couple rides yest it came home hot, both trips. i do not think it's an internal issue, there are no issues with it's function. even hot it seems to be working fine, but something is causing this. i'm now thinking the A/C line was also being heated by this source and not the source as suspected
the alt seems to get pretty hot and it's in fairly close proximity, the radiator is 10" away, i'm not sure whats gettin me here. it's the whole dam inner fender that's getting toasted along with my tower and strut..........no issue of temps at all from the driver side.

did i make a mistake cutting through the inner fender? was that the heat blocker?
if so, why is this not happening to the driver side strut?
gonna see what i have for thin aluminum and try and make a shield between that passenger side tower and the alt/engine see if that'll have any effect.

and i'm gonna call ORI Mon. and see what they have to say about it possibly being generated in the strut, but i'm not seeing it causing this amount of heat soak spread to a that big a range. and it's not the whole strut it's just the top 3rd of it, and the temp increases as you go up the body to the cap being the hottest. dam 1/4 steel tower does nothing but kill me here it's a major retainer.
 
That's weird. You're running the 4.0L right? All the heat should be on the driver's side. Exhaust runs down the pass side, but that is lower than where you're talking. I can't imagine anything electrical generating that much heat, without any other symptoms. Do you have the Catalytic under the belly still? Might that be heating something up that is transferring?