Someguys 04

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Is your track bar gusseted with plate? I'd at least gusset it with notched tubing (like a taco) or make similar out of plate. And only your lower cut is gusseted which will cause all of the force to go directly into that second upper cut, you need to do the same on the upper.
 
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Is your track bar gusseted with plate? I'd at least gusset it with notched tubing (like a taco) or make similar out of plate. And only your lower cut is gusseted which will cause all of the force to go directly into that second upper cut, you need to do the same on the upper.

yes it's just a 1/8" piece of steel sheet, i was unsure about this and hoping it'd draw some opinions.
i do have the room to place a similar brace on the other side of the offset. i figured i could use 1/8" sheet taco'd over or 1/4" plate and stay flat or even miter tubes on.
i'd try and mirror the pieces to keep forces = from both sides. i know the idea of gussets is sound from an added rigidity standpoint. but my reservation to complete it stems from all the WTF's i might get.
but then, a WTF is so much better than a pierced oil pan and the chain reaction.

you think it would fly if i did this?
i did consider seeking a custom bent offset bar. but fear this even with no welds present would still deflect due to the distorted shape. in theory, if i can keep this bar from any deflection, it should hold i'd think.
 
yes it's just a 1/8" piece of steel sheet, i was unsure about this and hoping it'd draw some opinions.
i do have the room to place a similar brace on the other side of the offset. i figured i could use 1/8" sheet taco'd over or 1/4" plate and stay flat or even miter tubes on.
i'd try and mirror the pieces to keep forces = from both sides. i know the idea of gussets is sound from an added rigidity standpoint. but my reservation to complete it stems from all the WTF's i might get.
but then, a WTF is so much better than a pierced oil pan and the chain reaction.

you think it would fly if i did this?
i did consider seeking a custom bent offset bar. but fear this even with no welds present would still deflect due to the distorted shape. in theory, if i can keep this bar from any deflection, it should hold i'd think.

A 1/8" taco is going to be a lot stronger than a 1/4" plate since you're not only dealing with the compressing forces but also any deflection will cause the track bar to bend up or down. Your strong ends aren't going to break so the middle will and with your 3 link front it'll flop over.

Will a straight link work?
 
Will a straight link work?

it may. i did notice yours kinda lends itself back toward the axle mount a bit, and i'm certainly willing to attempt it b4 committing to the gusset route. i'd be a minor directional change for the frame side bracket, if i can get a line.
 
Mine is parallel with the drag link.

maybe i saw it wrong.
the only way for me to hit the mount straight on would be over the diff cover (no room, would require a tight custom bend) or the bar would be at a slight angle across the rig, or my hokey offset.
 
see the angle in the heim. it does not appear quite 90*. this is what i was referring to.
or maybe it's camera angle.
i could prob get a line with a similar result. it just wouldn't be a perfect 90* connection at the axle.
 
see the angle in the heim. it does not appear quite 90*. this is what i was referring to.
or maybe it's camera angle.
i could prob get a line with a similar result. it just wouldn't be a perfect 90* connection at the axle.

It's not a perfect 90 at the axle side.
 
if that'll jive i'll give it a shot.
i guess i'd feel safe to surmise, that as long as the deviation from 90* doesn't exceed maybe 8* either way, the load translation side ways would not be significant enough to notice or do harm.

AM edit: been thinkin about this all night and morn. been goin over side by side pics and it's really just minor mechanical differences between our set up.
our TB to DL relationship from the driver side looks very similar, and we both have the flat pitman. but your drag connects behind your tie rod on the custom high steer. while my OE knuckle is holding my DL above or almost inline with the tie rod.

now dig this, if you pulled a line from your pitman connection to the tie rod stud this would result in a spread of the relationship at the axle end between the DL and TB connection points. bringing the DL directly in line with the TR, would cause the TB to appear angled back.

the reverse is, if i made a straight TB it would angle from the frame back to the axle mount. so, if i moved my DL connection back. it would tighten the connection point relationship at the axle end, and we'd be similar.

so basically like i was thinking. unless that slight deviation from a dead 90* load bearing line is a big deal, i would have no issues if i can fit that straight bar. but it will result in the appearance of angled back TB in relationship to my TR and DL.
 
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i went into the guestimator and plugged in some #'s concerning the TB or panhard.

4 samples measured from center axle forward, the axle end TB mount is planted at +3"
#1 straight both ends +3"
#2 is frame end +6"
#3 is frame end +10"
#4 is frame end -3" (< center axle backwards)

pan2.PNG


pan1.PNG


pan3.PNG


pan4.PNG


between +3" and +6" at the frame is seems like no significant increase.
 
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Hey I recognize this build! Good to see you come to the dark side. This site is a bit more technical and a lot easier to navigate in my opinion. You'll fit right in!
 
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Hey I recognize this build! Good to see you come to the dark side. This site is a bit more technical and a lot easier to navigate in my opinion. You'll fit right in!


gotta go where the action is. to many searches kept leading to post's from this forum
 
well i got a couple things between black fri and cyber mon.

front anti-rock is already here.
and a new Warn M8 is on the way.

i snagged 4ft of 2x3x1/4 tubing they were tossin today, that's 1/2 of my back 1/2 frame.

and i got most of my fuel cell done, 28x12x9 approx 11gl. 2 baffles and some trap doors in the bottom to try and pin fuel in the center (pump) section when it sloshes. it came out just at the 12" mark for depth and i'm not sure about the pump depth max. i've heard 12" is good, but add a clamp ring if needed and/or the tops thickness will be over. so i dropped the pump section 1/2" just to give me some play. and that provides a small tray if the pump ever dripped, it'd be contained some. top gets sealed up tomrw and then we'll see if it'll hold pressure.

i'll put up some pics, in a bit.
 
the tank is steel and it's welded 100% inside and out, except for the underside of the top (can't reach that).
all the mill scale has been cleaned off the interior and everything was wire brushed and cleaned with acetone, b4 the top got set.
if it won't pass a pressure test, then on to plan B.
if it does pass, it'll get coated inside.

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so i got that little sucker all welded up.
the top is 11ga., a little thicker to provide stiffness for bolt on items, like my pump ring.

i drilled and tapped 2 holes 1/4" NPT, for a pressure gauge and an inlet (later i'll open these to hold the TJ vent valves).
and it went pop, ding, bang, bing, and it held 4 PSI all day, 8-3:30.
i left it charged and we'll see what it says Mon.
there is minimal heat over the wkend and it's been freezing here so i do expect some decrease.

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so i got that little sucker all welded up.
the top is 11ga., a little thicker to provide stiffness for bolt on items, like my pump ring.

i drilled and tapped 2 holes 1/4" NPT, for a pressure gauge and an inlet (later i'll open these to hold the TJ vent valves).
and it went pop, ding, bang, bing, and it held 4 PSI all day, 8-3:30.
i left it charged and we'll see what it says Mon.
there is minimal heat over the wkend and it's been freezing here so i do expect some decrease.

View attachment 127927
Impressive stuff! Building your own fuel cell and the rest of the build. Like the custom highline too.
 
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i got at least a few months until this winter relents. and no tanks really offer good baffeling, so i figured i'd give it a go trying to make a cell.
so far i'd call it a success, unless Mon it's blown open or dead empty.
it still needs an interior coating to be complete but so far not bad.

i did the volume computation and came up with just over 12gl.

i'm no expert by any means, and just tryin not to F it all up while i go about this rebuild.
 
I call BS, seeing the methodical nature of this build is on a level beyond my comprehension, and I know a little dick about it.

haha , growing up i was the WHY/ how kid, always askin questions tryin to figure it out.
now i'm grown and it's a much grander scale..........like WHY the hell did you cut that ..........and HOW the hell are you gonna fix it.
 
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