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Wildman

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Here are some from Etrailer that I think you could drill and put a rod thru like you were planning for your steel ramps.

https://www.etrailer.com/Car-Ramps/Stallion/288-07502.html

These ramps were setup similar to what you were talking about doing. I could slide them in or out depending on the width of what I was loading onto the trailer.

IMGP1956.jpg



They'd used a piece of pipe that the ramps slide on.

IMGP1955.jpg
 
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someguysjeep

someguysjeep

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i saw those. and not a bad price either, if i used aluminum they'd have to be stowed away out of site, around here they'll cut your trailer in 1/2 to steal the chain.

i looked on FB and found a nice set of 96" 10k's, but them suckers are way down by taylormade 3hrs each way, not quite worth it addin time and fuel. i'm keep gong as is and i'll keeps my eyes open for a come up.
i been lookin daily for some 1/8" aluminum sheet metal too, for my front compartment bottom.

those steel ramps i made, i'm cool with. i kinda wondered more about the opinion of 3, 1/2" tabs and 1" round holdin up,
but if put them on angles i can drill and plug weld the tabs from the back b4 welding 100% of the perimeter. kinda like a recovery point weld, then blast that 1/4" 2.5x2.5" angle to the 3x3 tube and call it good.
 
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someguysjeep

someguysjeep

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60" long ramp on a trailer that is built on top of 28 or 29" tires...Every time you load the jeep is practicing your wall climbin!

i'ma try and get it moved around some this wkemd, i need more room around it. i''l be pulling it forward or sideways so i can mock all that ramp stuff up on a hard flat surface. i'll get some pics of the angle.
 
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someguysjeep

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finally sold those MC springs, that'll cover a new or repairing my old welding cart, mine blew a wheel, they all need upgraded. with a big bottle and 2 welder that carts gotta be 400#.
i also wanna pick up a soldering iron, haven't had need for 1 but with all the trailer wiring id like to melt some together.
working on tying in the brake wiring today and gonna try to move it some, to get at that rear end for the ramps.

about the decking.......anybody got an opinion about pine boards and linseed oil?
 
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someguysjeep

someguysjeep

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Had a nasty storm last night. Power has been out for over 24 hrs now everything in the fridge is room temperature and everything in the freezer had thawed by the time I got home from work. They have given us 4 different estimated repair times now were at noon tomorrow . Took a drive around not a power Co truck to be found anywhere around here.
 
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someguysjeep

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crew showed up at 3 am beatin on my door tellin me they need up my driveway with a truck to get to the pole. 15m findin her keys in the dark then moving 2 vehicles 1/2 way down the road. they try to back in, i told um the gate was tight but they hit it anyway, so now my gates bent. then to top it all off the pole they really needed was 2 houses down.
i asked about who's gonna fix my gate and they say to call the office tomrw............then i ask about all the groceries i just bought Sun. and he chuckled. good luck with that.

got power back at 4am.

brand new fridge just bought last yr. already has had to have rework done due to failing hinges. and now we come to find it has no insulation or it doesn't work for shit., this is not grandmother's fridge that would keep shit cold for days with no power, this new stuff is paper thin crap shit garbage, useless unless that motor can run.
we had put a couple bags of ice in the top and in the freezer to try and keep things cool but all that melted. the fridge is not even a cooler it's a heat sink box.
 
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someguysjeep

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so here's that piece.........2.5" x 2.5" x 1/4". holes behind the tabs to plug weld and between on the face. staying back off the corners of the tube gives me 2 nice edges to get even more weld on. it's proximity to the corners should provide enough back bone to handle a 5k rig and the 1/4" material satisfies me i won't buckle the face of the thinner tube. TBH i don't need the face plugs once that top edge is welded it'll take a bulldozer to rip that off.

i had forgotten i had lost or never got 1, 9/16-18 nut to the suspension, i got 6 dropped yesterday, so now i can move it around, once i get that on.

297993216_451312926904993_3047060578699484335_n.jpg


297815126_3620667944826568_3596996205012612828_n.jpg
 
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someguysjeep

someguysjeep

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ok. i got that sucker pulled forward enough to work around that back end. mocked up both ramps and the most angle i show from solid ground is 29.4*.
i then dropped old folgers buckets at my wheelbase spread. 1 with a wheel just onto the deck and the other an estimated spotting of the where i might expect it to sit loaded. that round is about 25" from the ground there.

and lets then turn back around to the afore mentioned wheel spread.......guess what it's not what i thought it was. apparently the #'s i had reported were with the suspension lower and stretched out. that's where i pulled that 108-109" as it sits with the suspension at ride height that spread is really now only 106.5" .....man i really can't remember but something's telling me i pulled that back a bit.....dammit gettin old sucks, and i'm not 1 for notes or tape measures (though i busted 1 out just for @Mike_H ), i make things fit where i want them to be.

got the underside of 1 side all welded up, the step and front end stabilizer bar mount done on 1 side as well. and popped several holes for clamping some wires and got those all secured.

298668667_809318167146659_7607329779154467180_n.jpg


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Wildman

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Seeing the angle of the ramps IMO you'll be fine. I've gotten spoiled with my tailer and don't use my ramps 90% of the time. Since it's dovetailed I can just drive on and off. But as has been mentioned here more than one having it dovetailed can make you drag the tail end a lot more.

Trailer is looking good. Can't wait to get back working on my stuff.
 
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someguysjeep

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who has an opinion on weight distribution hitches?

almost kinda leaning that way......just cause i plan to travel some distance with it .
 

Wildman

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who has an opinion on weight distribution hitches?

almost kinda leaning that way......just cause i plan to travel some distance with it .

I've never had one with my current trailer but have only towed long distance with it once. And it was this trip to Moab in 2007.

IMGP0426.JPG



IMGP0427.JPG


But I am looking at getting one since I do plan on traveling a lot more and feel it's just an added safety factor.

This was a pretty good video and he describes how and why he comes to his conclusions.

 
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someguysjeep

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Seeing the angle of the ramps IMO you'll be fine. I've gotten spoiled with my tailer and don't use my ramps 90% of the time. Since it's dovetailed I can just drive on and off. But as has been mentioned here more than one having it dovetailed can make you drag the tail end a lot more.

Trailer is looking good. Can't wait to get back working on my stuff.

they flip up real nice too not to heavy to lift not real tall. we'll know when it comes time to test it with the jeep.


been havin a hard time finding some aluminum for that front end storage floor. i have some galvanized panels but wasn't sure if i really wanted to use them. i'd rather have plain mill finish aluminum.
 
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someguysjeep

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What are you pulling it with?

Will your trailer unload your steering tires?

ram 1500.
IDK yet, i assume a 600-700# tongue weight will have an effect. the vehicle has about an inch of rake i never removed knowing it' will be used to tow. and i'll be fine if that's all it needs, if it wants more i will likely incorporate a distribution hitch.

what prompts this is, i remember carrying the 14bolt axle around in the bed for a few days b4 i got it out and that made the front end feel light to me with that weight over the rear axle. this towed weight will all be behind the rear axle, so i assume the feeling will be magnified.

i have found a few of those units tested in that vid Wildman posted, the 1 he liked best is on FB for 150$ locally.
 
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Mike_H

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You can figure it out based on what the Gross Combined vehicle rating is and your rear axle weight rating (both should be posted on the drivers door sill somewhere). Go weigh the truck, so you know how much tongue weight you can handle, then weigh the trailer and jeep. If your total combined weight is under and you have enough overhead on the rear axle, you're good to go. If you the GCVW is under, but the tongue weight pushes you over, you'll "need" the WD hitch. I put need in quotes...I've never run a WD set-up....but then again, I seem to be hard on rear axles...Both my avalanche and my F150 needed to have the rear axles rebuilt. The Avalanche was at 160,000 miles and the Ford was within the warranty period (so I believe that was a factory screwup, not me).
 
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Wildman

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ram 1500.
IDK yet, i assume a 600-700# tongue weight will have an effect. the vehicle has about an inch of rake i never removed knowing it' will be used to tow. and i'll be fine if that's all it needs, if it wants more i will likely incorporate a distribution hitch.

what prompts this is, i remember carrying the 14bolt axle around in the bed for a few days b4 i got it out and that made the front end feel light to me with that weight over the rear axle. this towed weight will all be behind the rear axle, so i assume the feeling will be magnified.

i have found a few of those units tested in that vid Wildman posted, the 1 he liked best is on FB for 150$ locally.

I towed with my Ram 2500 but it was also a CTD so it's got a lot more weight over the front axle. It's going to be interesting to tow with the new Ram 1500 but I don't plan on towing with it much.
IMO as long as you have the tongue weight correct you should be OK but a WD hitch can't hurt either.
 
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Irun

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With the weight of that trailer and your heavy rig I'm betting you'll be pushing 8000 lbs. I tow an 1100 lb trailer and 4300 lb jeep fully loaded, with a tongue weight of approximately 550 - 600 lbs. My 2020 Ram has an 11, 200 lb tow capacity and I'm planning on getting a WD hitch after a scary tow a few weeks ago.

I was towing the Jeep to a wheeling event and hit heavy rain close to the end of the trip. While exiting the highway the front steering got a little loose to the point where the nose of the truck pushed over a little. I eased on the brakes, wasn't really going fast, and the ABS kicked on. That was enough to convince me that the factory recommendation of using a WD hitch with anything over 5000 lbs is a good idea.
 

Apparition

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factory recommendation of using a WD hitch with anything over 5000 lbs is a good idea.
This right here is very important. Seems like that could be a potential legal issue if something bad did happen too but IANAL.

For a 1/2 ton rig weight distribution is pretty much needed, IMO. I ran the equalizer on my F150. It was fine towing through Nebraska on the flat but coming down the mountain on I70 is where that extra control can come in handy. Plus do you want to be that guy squatting down the highway?

My F350 with my aluminum trailer and LJ, I had to check frequently to see if it's still back there. No WD needed, no squat with 650 to 700 lbs on the hitch.

I don't like messing with WD hitches they are a pain but they are important when needed.

@NashvilleTJ did some testing on his and I believe runs one now.
 

NashvilleTJ

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This right here is very important. Seems like that could be a potential legal issue if something bad did happen too but IANAL.

For a 1/2 ton rig weight distribution is pretty much needed, IMO. I ran the equalizer on my F150. It was fine towing through Nebraska on the flat but coming down the mountain on I70 is where that extra control can come in handy. Plus do you want to be that guy squatting down the highway?

My F350 with my aluminum trailer and LJ, I had to check frequently to see if it's still back there. No WD needed, no squat with 650 to 700 lbs on the hitch.

I don't like messing with WD hitches they are a pain but they are important when needed.

@NashvilleTJ did some testing on his and I believe runs one now.

I ran a WD hitch way back when I towed the rig with a 1/2 ton Yukon XL - and that truck really needed it. My current big diesel has always towed very well without it - even with the trailer pushing 9 or 10k. I've run 25,000 comfortable miles with this setup with no issues.

Well, since I still had the WD hitch setup (and after some nasty "air-bag shaming" from Ryan :rolleyes:), on a whim I decided to give it a try for my Moab trip this year. The difference was noticable. It went from a great ride to a fantastic ride. Noticably better steering feel, a bit less sway, and less porpoising.

IMG_0260.JPG


Although probably not worth the effort for short trips (less than a few hours or so), I'll definitely continue to use it for long trips.

One nice feature about this setup is that is has built in sway control. That's the purpose of the control arm in the center.

Oh, and I did learn something about my setup in the process...

IMG_0503.JPG


After seeing that I did move the rig back on the trailer just a bit...
 
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