If it were mine, I'd replace the master cylinder.
@mrblaine could probably comment on the capabilities of the stock unit capabilities as well as upgrading.
Someguys 04
- Thread starter someguysjeep
- Start date
If it were mine, I'd replace the master cylinder.
@mrblaine could probably comment on the capabilities of the stock unit capabilities as well as upgrading.
OP
OP
i've seen mention of a durango ( i think it was) power unit and MC in his ladies ride. i believe he said that lays down quite a bit of clamping force.
but unless i'm mistaken the unit i have will work for disc's with an alteration in the proportional valve (or get 1 from a Rubi).
i had planned on trying to purchase from BMB, and i'm pretty sure they could have accommodated a hybrid set up for me, but the tax man left thin funds. this was the best i could do ATM.
a power unit upgrade would certainly complicate things, especially if not totally needed.............if i had a choice of where to spend that $ it'd be my steering gear. but will do whats right.
i welcome his opinion, should he care to share. but don't want to feel like a dick draggin him in with "i bought chit from someone else will you help me set it up" either.
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I don't do that unless someone is being a dick and you haven't been yet. So, tell me what you have, what it is from, what it is going on, and hopefully the piston diameter.
OP
crown jk big brake kit, nothing else special. 13" rotors, 54mm pistons, all new equipment.
Going on a JK axle I assume? 2 things, their pads suck. We have 1084's for it when you figure that out. Use a Dorman M390408 master which is 1 1/16" bore. Small enough the booster can handle it, large enough to get back some pedal.
Not a fan of steel pistons. You likely won't use it hard enough to matter.
OP
JK axle , correct.
pads, i assumed you had something better, 1084 part # is noted.
i'll peek the MC, thank you.
pads, i assumed you had something better, 1084 part # is noted.
i'll peek the MC, thank you.
OP
i'm gonna order the MC today.
i have read several things about the proportioning valve, some suggest just gutting the existing 1. some suggest eliminating the prop valve all together and hard piping the front and using an adjuster valve on the rear. or i recon i could just use 1 from any large 4 disc sys.
is there a best or more correct option?
steel pistons? can it become a heat retention issue?
Leave the prop valve portion of the combination valve alone and don't touch it. It works pretty damn good as is.
Steel pistons rust and transfer heat to the fluid.
OP
i'll leave it be, then.
come caliper rebuild time, i'll seek other options to those pistons.
thanks again.
OP
alright it's done... i put the order in for the Savvy belly skid.
it's on back order, so no use waiting. i need my name up high on that list.
MC got here today, but so did about 6" of fresh snow and 50MPH winds, so the pile of parts just continues to grow.
it's on back order, so no use waiting. i need my name up high on that list.
MC got here today, but so did about 6" of fresh snow and 50MPH winds, so the pile of parts just continues to grow.
Something interesting I saw is that some monster trucks are now using something similar to an ORI (I honestly haven't looked that much into the technicals of what they're running so I could be wrong...). My understanding is that those trucks are notoriously difficult to tune suspension on due to the huge tires messing with it. I went with coilovers vs ORI for the ability to have better suspension tuning based on what I know but this does have me curious about what's possible. It's obviously working for their application.
I know that ORI have a big claim to fame in that the bump stop is internal, and ride height as well as damping is adjusted with a nitrogen bottle. I’ve always been intrigued. Bleepin jeep built a crawler running them and they worked nicely.
OP
this was a total side track for me. i was planning to flop into a mid arm set up and retain the spring/shock combo, maybe stretch it out some.
i picked these up from a friend that had bought them for his big PU. he had some medical problems and lost his job. he would not accept a handout and i refused to pin him underneath a loan, so he offered me these, NIB.
i'm the crazy fool who tore my front end apart to try and use them.
i have been warned that 14" of travel is very hard to achieve in the front end of a TJ and that if they were any good they be more widely used.
of course my" bullshit, watch this" kicked in and i pushed to mount them and get full cycle. which i've done (so far).
as far as tuning, i have 2 pressure inlets. 1 port lifts me up and 1 port sets an opposing pressure to control the travel motion.
i think i may be in a position to have more of an effect due to ambient temps or heavy quick cycling than you, because both my height and my motion are controlled by pressures. these are not made for a "go fast" suspension, it'll take short bursts of use but it's not an all day in the whoops part...........that's a CO's place.
they do have an internal bump stop..the last inch of shaft takes extreme pressure to seat down fully (i cannot push it in, it's gonna take some significant weight).
what i'm kinda unsure about is the statement that claims they can eliminate the need for sway bars.
they also boast less push off than a standard spring, it'll dampen and absorb rather than push back.
ORI has a few vids on their site. 1 in particular of a rock bouncer, putting down 5x the power i can put down and 40" wheels, seeing those struts absorb the impacts that machine is taking is amazing, and if it can handle the abuse that guy puts onto it, it'll handle any Jeep.
now i don't plan on driving like a rock bouncer, but if those tools can absorb the shock that machine lays into them, they can take way more than a crawler will put them through. and i have the piece of mind that if i dropped off something they could handle it. if they control a 3000# machine dropping from 20ft out of the sky and take it (like he landed on a pillow). then me dropping of a rock is nothing.
this is all new to me and i have quite a learning curve to master once they are installed.
or maybe they'll suck ass on the Jeep and i'll have to build me a bouncer next.
i picked these up from a friend that had bought them for his big PU. he had some medical problems and lost his job. he would not accept a handout and i refused to pin him underneath a loan, so he offered me these, NIB.
i'm the crazy fool who tore my front end apart to try and use them.
i have been warned that 14" of travel is very hard to achieve in the front end of a TJ and that if they were any good they be more widely used.
of course my" bullshit, watch this" kicked in and i pushed to mount them and get full cycle. which i've done (so far).
as far as tuning, i have 2 pressure inlets. 1 port lifts me up and 1 port sets an opposing pressure to control the travel motion.
i think i may be in a position to have more of an effect due to ambient temps or heavy quick cycling than you, because both my height and my motion are controlled by pressures. these are not made for a "go fast" suspension, it'll take short bursts of use but it's not an all day in the whoops part...........that's a CO's place.
they do have an internal bump stop..the last inch of shaft takes extreme pressure to seat down fully (i cannot push it in, it's gonna take some significant weight).
what i'm kinda unsure about is the statement that claims they can eliminate the need for sway bars.
they also boast less push off than a standard spring, it'll dampen and absorb rather than push back.
ORI has a few vids on their site. 1 in particular of a rock bouncer, putting down 5x the power i can put down and 40" wheels, seeing those struts absorb the impacts that machine is taking is amazing, and if it can handle the abuse that guy puts onto it, it'll handle any Jeep.
now i don't plan on driving like a rock bouncer, but if those tools can absorb the shock that machine lays into them, they can take way more than a crawler will put them through. and i have the piece of mind that if i dropped off something they could handle it. if they control a 3000# machine dropping from 20ft out of the sky and take it (like he landed on a pillow). then me dropping of a rock is nothing.
this is all new to me and i have quite a learning curve to master once they are installed.
or maybe they'll suck ass on the Jeep and i'll have to build me a bouncer next.
Not that anyone else should, but my personal litmus test for the viability of a particular product is to watch how it responds in a race situation like KOH. If someone is campaigning ORI struts out there, they are being very quiet about it and there is far more than enough talent to set them up correctly.
The other thing is understanding a bit of the genesis of rock bouncer builds. As little as 5-6 years ago, the standard was to pound in so much rebound on the shocks that they were effectively solid bars instead of shocks. They packed up instantly and would not extend which was done in a misguided attempt to keep the front down. That has changed and now they are running more active suspensions, trailing arm set ups and they are spending money on shocks that work and they let them work. Point being they are moving into the experimental stage of progression and one of two of them running something is not indicative of much.
Don't put too much emphasis on impact loads. The KOH unlimited cars run a 2-1 motion ratio which also means the impacts are multiplied. They run very high spring rates because the shock is mounted on the trailing arm.
OP
i watched several KOH vids recently and was very tuned in to the suspension on a particular rig 
.
i saw the rear suspension you speak of and it's got my brain tweeked.
those bounces are running that strut stiff and almost fully extended to absorb that crap, and i don't expect to use the product that way, but it does show the kind of abuse it can withstand.
don't mistake me for trying to promote the product, i'm more trying to convince myself i'm not totally F'd in my decision to use them. i've effectively isolated myself going down this path, it's not heavily traveled.
.i saw the rear suspension you speak of and it's got my brain tweeked.
those bounces are running that strut stiff and almost fully extended to absorb that crap, and i don't expect to use the product that way, but it does show the kind of abuse it can withstand.
don't mistake me for trying to promote the product, i'm more trying to convince myself i'm not totally F'd in my decision to use them. i've effectively isolated myself going down this path, it's not heavily traveled.
OP
jesseshoots
TJ Enthusiast
A bunch of the guys I wheel with in GA use ORI's and everyone I've talked to that has them would buy them again. They're also mainly running 42's on 1 ton axles with custom 3/4 link setups, FWIW. Watching the way the rigs glided over the rocks was impressive!
I have a feeling that once you get them dialed in you'll really like them.
I have a feeling that once you get them dialed in you'll really like them.