Spider gear replacement— What is needed to prepare the axle to move?

Johnfromphilly

Johnfromphilly

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I am getting my ducks in a row to replace my spider gears in the rear differential. I have watched a bunch of videos and read up on the project and one question remains for me...

When you go to remove the c clamp from the axle you need to push the axle in from the sides. What is needed to prepare the axle to move? Do I need to remove just the wheels or do I need to go deeper and remove brake parts also? Every video I have found just shows the zoomed in view of the Diff and says "then push the axle in to expose the c clamp". There is no discussion of what to do to allow the axle to slide in.

Anyone have an answer or, better yet, a video or step by step that includes this step?

Thanks!
 
If you have disc brakes you need to remove the caliper, you don't with drums. You will have to remove the cross pin before you can push them in.

Here's a video I made last week about removing/replacing spider gears but it isn't for a C clip axle so take it with a grain of salt.

 
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hosejockey61 said:
If you have disc brakes you need to remove the caliper, you don't with drums. You will have to remove the cross pin before you can push them in.

Here's a video I made last week about removing/replacing spider gears but it isn't for a C clip axle so take it with a grain of salt.

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Thanks. I have watched some of your other videos in the past, great stuff! High quality and very well done always!

That project is more involved than what I will have to do for mine, fortunately. I appreciate the input on my project.
 
Most of the Dana 35 cross pins are held in with a small long hex-head bolt. You'll want a 12-pt. 1/4" socket for that particular bolt. Once you have the cross-pin out, push both axle shafts fully inward so the c-clips can be retrieved which is the easiest part of the job. Then the shafts can be slid out enough to replace the spider gears.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
Jerry Bransford said:
Most of the Dana 35 cross pins are held in with a small long hex-head bolt. You'll want a 12-pt. 1/4" socket for that particular bolt. Once you have the cross-pin out, push both axle shafts fully inward so the c-clips can be retrieved which is the easiest part of the job. Then the shafts can be slid out enough to replace the spider gears.
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@Jerry Bransford please check out my original question. I am not asking about the pin. I am asking what needs to be done to be able to push the axle in to allow access to the C clip. Do I need to remove the wheel only or additional parts to get the axle to push in?
 
Johnfromphilly said:
@Jerry Bransford please check out my original question. I am not asking about the pin. I am asking what needs to be done to be able to push the axle in to allow access to the C clip. Do I need to remove the wheel only or additional parts to get the axle to push in?
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I know, that pin and its cross-shaft needs to come out too before you can push the shafts in to release the c-clips. No one mentioned the long screw that holds the cross-pin that needs to be completely removed. Others answered the question at the brake-end of the axle shaft.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
I know, that pin and its cross-shaft needs to come out too before you can push the shafts in to release the c-clips. No one mentioned the long screw that holds the cross-pin that needs to be completely removed.
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@Jerry Bransford can you help with my question? What needs to be done to allow the axles to push in? I have a full understanding of the whole process except that.
 
When the cross pin comes out it will free up two of the spiders that ride on it. Remove these two and it will give room for the axle to slide in.
 
snowdog1226 said:
When the cross pin comes out it will free up two of the spiders that ride on it. Remove these two and ir will give room for the axle to slide in.
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Please read my question in the original post. Do I need to remove the wheel, the brakes etc to allow the axle to move in? I know everything I need to do at the differential, I am asking about he other end of the axle , the outside.
 
Johnfromphilly said:
can you help with my question? What needs to be done to allow the axles to push in? I have a full understanding of the whole process except that.
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you may be able to do it with the wheels installed, however I have never done it without removing the wheels and drums. if I was you i would remove the wheels and drums to make the job easier, take less than ten mins to remove the wheels and drums, why not do it and clean your rear brakes while your there
 
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PNW Lj said:
you may be able to do it with the wheels installed, however I have never done it without removing the wheels and drums. if I was you i would remove the wheels and drums to make the job easier, take less than ten mins to remove the wheels and drums, why not do it and clean your rear brakes while your there
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Thank you. So worse case, I will not need to remove anything beyond the drums and wheels on the outside, correct? I actually wouldn’t do that if it’s not needed for the project but I get your point. I don’t want to mess with the brakes if I don’t have to.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
I know, that pin and its cross-shaft needs to come out too before you can push the shafts in to release the c-clips. No one mentioned the long screw that holds the cross-pin that needs to be completely removed. Others answered the question at the brake-end of the axle shaft.
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No one really has said “remove this to allow he axle shaft to move in” as related to the outside. I am still not clear if the wheels and drums need to come off.
 
Johnfromphilly said:
Thank you. So worse case, I will not need to remove anything beyond the drums and wheels on the outside, correct? I actually wouldn’t do that if it’s not needed for the project but I get your point. I don’t want to mess with the brakes if I don’t have to.
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Correct, you will not need to remove anything else.

Taking the drums off really isn't messing with the breaks, they just slide on and off (albeit some times are a little harder than "just slide off"). Having done this maybe a couple hundred times, I really do recommend taking the wheels and drums off to make the job much easier.

I do feel that I should add (I do not know your level of experience, and I don't mean to imply anything) if your are not comfortable with taking the drums off, I advise that you may want to take this to a mechanic to do the work. The reason I say this is because this job can turn in to kinda a pita. No one else has mentioned this either, but the cross pins lock bolt do break, and even for a mechanic can be a head ache. special kits are made to remove them, but if this happens in your drive way, the jeep is going nowhere without getting it out and a replacement. here's a link to the kit if such an event were to unfold.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0078U9L8C/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
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PNW Lj said:
Correct, you will not need to remove anything else.

Taking the drums off really isn't messing with the breaks, they just slide on and off (albeit some times are a little harder than "just slide off"). Having done this maybe a couple hundred times, I really do recommend taking the wheels and drums off to make the job much easier.

I do feel that I should add (I do not know your level of experience, and I don't mean to imply anything) if your are not comfortable with taking the drums off, I advise that you may want to take this to a mechanic to do the work. The reason I say this is because this job can turn in to kinda a pita. No one else has mentioned this either, but the cross pins lock bolt do break, and even for a mechanic can be a head ache. special kits are made to remove them, but if this happens in your drive way, the jeep is going nowhere without getting it out and a replacement. here's a link to the kit if such an event were to unfold.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0078U9L8C/?tag=wranglerorg-20
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I appreciate the detailed reply. I am learning as I go with my TJ, i have only had it for a few months and auto mechanics is completely new to me. That being said I have jumped in feet first. I have ( in addition to a bunch of other projects) removed both differential covers and replaced the gaskets and fluid. That is actually when I noticed slight sparring on the spider gears in the first place. I am comfortable with the mechanics of the differential and have over analyzed this project to the point that I think I am good to move forward.

All that being said I am a novice (so I appreciate the approach of your answer)and have not yet attacked the brakes so I was trying to avoid getting in there. I have seen a bunch of videos with people having to hammer away to get the drum off. I watch videos of many projects on TJs to get a feel for everything, even if I don’t plan to do it now. I want to know how it all works. That project will come one day but I am trying to avoid learning two things at once. Regarding the pin, this is not my DD so if something goes wrong I can wait for Amazon to rescue me. Haha Thanks again.
 
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Johnfromphilly said:
I have seen a bunch of videos with people having to hammer away to get the drum off.
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lol this is exactly what I meant by they may not just slide off.

I feel you here, I too started by jumping feet first into auto mechanics, which lead me to a career in the industry. I wish you the best of luck with your project, and there are plenty of us here to help if things go awry.

if your spider kit doesn't come with it (it should though), I would recommend having a new cross pin and bolt on hand when you do the project. at the very least its cheap insurance.
 
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PNW Lj said:
lol this is exactly what I meant by they may not just slide off.

I feel you here, I too started by jumping feet first into auto mechanics, which lead me to a career in the industry. I wish you the best of luck with your project, and there are plenty of us here to help if things go awry.

if your spider kit doesn't come with it (it should though), I would recommend having a new cross pin and bolt on hand when you do the project. at the very least its cheap insurance.
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This forum is what gave me the confidence to buy a TJ in the first place. My first thread was asking if it is possible to learn and work on a TJ and the replies and conversations helped make the decision as well as choosing a great one to buy. Every project I have done was researched here and I try to give back with info when I can. I posted a thread about rust on the skid plate and how to remove and fix it in addition to a few others. Thanks!

This is my original Thread:
Thread 'Help convince me I am not crazy for buying a TJ (so I can convince my wife)'
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...-buying-a-tj-so-i-can-convince-my-wife.45162/
 
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Johnfromphilly said:
This forum is what gave me the confidence to buy a TJ in the first place. My first thread was asking if it is possible to learn and work on a TJ and the replies and conversations helped make the decision as well as choosing a great one to buy. Every project I have done was researched here and I try to give back with info when I can. I posted a thread about rust on the skid plate and how to remove and fix it in addition to a few others. Thanks!
Click to expand...
You really did pick a good car to learn on, as my riding lawn mower may be more complicated, and its good that you want to learn because all Tj's will NEED work :ROFLMAO:
 
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