Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Sputtering then dying while idle

johnjeeptj

New Member
Original poster
Joined
Jul 15, 2024
Messages
4
Location
South Carolina
I recently had a problem with my 1997 2.5L I4 automatic. I was at a red light stopped in drive and my jeep started to sputter and then died on me. Started it back up and did the same thing. Gave it a minute or two and as I started it I gave it gas and got out of the traffic. Got it home by giving it some gas in neutral while i was stopped at red lights and stop signs. Runs fine when driving, idle it sputters and then cuts off. Ive looked through forums and called people and cant seem to find a consistent possible cause or fix. No check engine light either. I put a OBD2 on it and no codes came up. A ton of people said sensors like Throttle position, O2, Crankshaft position, but wouldnt a sensor gone bad throw a code? I looked at the air filter and it was clean. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key. I bought some Throttle body cleaner and I plan on opening it up and cleaning if it needs it. I also have some high mileage seafoam for the tank if that could be it. If anyone has had this problem or knows what it could be, anything helps. Also Ive seen people say aftermarket parts dont work well with jeeps, do websites like Quadratec, Extreme Terrain sell shotty parts. Ive bought stuff from them before like fenders and floor mats but nothing for the motor. If anyone knows where to buy parts that work well that would be much appreciated. Thanks in advanced.
 
I recently had a problem with my 1997 2.5L I4 automatic. I was at a red light stopped in drive and my jeep started to sputter and then died on me. Started it back up and did the same thing. Gave it a minute or two and as I started it I gave it gas and got out of the traffic. Got it home by giving it some gas in neutral while i was stopped at red lights and stop signs. Runs fine when driving, idle it sputters and then cuts off. Ive looked through forums and called people and cant seem to find a consistent possible cause or fix. No check engine light either. I put a OBD2 on it and no codes came up. A ton of people said sensors like Throttle position, O2, Crankshaft position, but wouldnt a sensor gone bad throw a code? I looked at the air filter and it was clean. I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key. I bought some Throttle body cleaner and I plan on opening it up and cleaning if it needs it. I also have some high mileage seafoam for the tank if that could be it. If anyone has had this problem or knows what it could be, anything helps. Also Ive seen people say aftermarket parts dont work well with jeeps, do websites like Quadratec, Extreme Terrain sell shotty parts. Ive bought stuff from them before like fenders and floor mats but nothing for the motor. If anyone knows where to buy parts that work well that would be much appreciated. Thanks in advanced.

I have a 97 2.5L manual and have had my idle air control module “fail” and cause it to die at idle. This has happened mostly right when it’s cranked over and cold for me. If I blip the throttle as it’s dropping the idle it normally saves it from dying and is normally fine after it’s warm so never consistent. It also never throws a code when it does do that but once in a blue moon after a few days of that it’ll throw the idle air control valve code. You can try cleaning the IAC or replace it but I’ve only had issues since replacing mine with store brand ones so if you have oem clean it first and if you can find oem even better. I just keep swapping the orileys IAC everytime it throws a code as part of the lifetime warranty it has.
 
I have a 97 2.5L manual and have had my idle air control module “fail” and cause it to die at idle. This has happened mostly right when it’s cranked over and cold for me. If I blip the throttle as it’s dropping the idle it normally saves it from dying and is normally fine after it’s warm so never consistent. It also never throws a code when it does do that but once in a blue moon after a few days of that it’ll throw the idle air control valve code. You can try cleaning the IAC or replace it but I’ve only had issues since replacing mine with store brand ones so if you have oem clean it first and if you can find oem even better. I just keep swapping the orileys IAC everytime it throws a code as part of the lifetime warranty it has.

It happened to me when it was up to temp. Normally sits around
I have a 97 2.5L manual and have had my idle air control module “fail” and cause it to die at idle. This has happened mostly right when it’s cranked over and cold for me. If I blip the throttle as it’s dropping the idle it normally saves it from dying and is normally fine after it’s warm so never consistent. It also never throws a code when it does do that but once in a blue moon after a few days of that it’ll throw the idle air control valve code. You can try cleaning the IAC or replace it but I’ve only had issues since replacing mine with store brand ones so if you have oem clean it first and if you can find oem even better. I just keep swapping the orileys IAC everytime it throws a code as part of the lifetime warranty it has.

It happened to me when it was up to temp. Normally sits around
I have a 97 2.5L manual and have had my idle air control module “fail” and cause it to die at idle. This has happened mostly right when it’s cranked over and cold for me. If I blip the throttle as it’s dropping the idle it normally saves it from dying and is normally fine after it’s warm so never consistent. It also never throws a code when it does do that but once in a blue moon after a few days of that it’ll throw the idle air control valve code. You can try cleaning the IAC or replace it but I’ve only had issues since replacing mine with store brand ones so if you have oem clean it first and if you can find oem even better. I just keep swapping the orileys IAC everytime it throws a code as part of the lifetime warranty it has.

It happened to me when it was up to temp. Normally sits around 170-180. I will defintely check the IAC and see if it needs cleaning and if it needs to be replaced try my best to find OEM.
 
It happened to me when it was up to temp. Normally sits around 170-180.

TJs usually run 210 on the gauge...dead on 12 or just a jump to the left.

170-180 is either a failed open thermostat not allowing the Jeep to reach optimum engine temperature...the PCM will keep richening the mixture trying to get it up to temp killing gas mileage.

You probably want to get a code reader and see if the PCM agrees with the dash temperature. A $30 USB dongle and the free Torque Lite app would accomplish that

A $30 IR thermometer also would let you measure the temperature of the water neck and verify both the PCM and dash gauge.

-Mac
 
Old thread.... sorry. But did you ever find the problem with this? I had a similar issue and mine died while doing a turn on a road. It would NOT restart. Ended up replacing the fuel pressure regulator and it has been solid since.
 
Old thread.... sorry. But did you ever find the problem with this? I had a similar issue and mine died while doing a turn on a road. It would NOT restart. Ended up replacing the fuel pressure regulator and it has been solid since.

Yes, the thermostat was stuck open. Everything mac said in this thread was spot on with what the issue was so thanks to him again. Glad to hear you got yours going again!
 
I have good luck just spraying WD40 in the port above the throttle blade. That feeds the IAC. I helper to turn the key while spraying should free it up. I used the same procedure on my '99 Suburban.

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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts