Stainless fuel hard line doesn’t fit with relocated spring perch


Mike_H

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Filed under: unintended consequences, otherwise know as mods beget more mods.

I relocated my upper spring perches. I'm making sure my fuel and evap lines still line up, as well as replacing brake lines. Well, I found the fuel supply line, the big stainless one, doesn't quite fit with the relocated perch. I've bent it around and got it connected, but I'm not happy with it. The soft line has a minor kink in it, and the new bends I put in the hard line aren't great. Thinking on buying some hard tubing, stainless flex tubing and -an fittings to make it look presentable.

However, I've not done much with -an fittings before. Not sure if I need special tools, what fittings I'll need, how to I connect to the factory QD's, etc.

Anyone care to give me some pointers, or present an alternative fix?
IMG_20210406_205341356.jpg
IMG_20210406_205349752.jpg
 

RobertJ

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Mike_H

Mike_H

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You can replace that soft line with a line like I used in this thread:

Where can I find a replacement for this fuel fitting?

It gives a little more reach and wouldn't kink. There's another option there that you can make yourself.

For the connection and a tool to use, a cheap solution is something like this:

Lisle 37000 Air Conditioning/Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set
Thanks. I can't tell from your post, but that Edelbrock kit you bought replaces the line to the fuel rail? I'm actually looking for a solution to go from the tank to the hard line on the frame, before it runs up into the engine compartment.
 

RobertJ

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Thanks. I can't tell from your post, but that Edelbrock kit you bought replaces the line to the fuel rail? I'm actually looking for a solution to go from the tank to the hard line on the frame, before it runs up into the engine compartment.

Yes, my fault. I could have swore I was looking at the front of your TJ.
 

mrblaine

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Filed under: unintended consequences, otherwise know as mods beget more mods.

I relocated my upper spring perches. I'm making sure my fuel and evap lines still line up, as well as replacing brake lines. Well, I found the fuel supply line, the big stainless one, doesn't quite fit with the relocated perch. I've bent it around and got it connected, but I'm not happy with it. The soft line has a minor kink in it, and the new bends I put in the hard line aren't great. Thinking on buying some hard tubing, stainless flex tubing and -an fittings to make it look presentable.

However, I've not done much with -an fittings before. Not sure if I need special tools, what fittings I'll need, how to I connect to the factory QD's, etc.

Anyone care to give me some pointers, or present an alternative fix?View attachment 241550View attachment 241551
If you want to convert to AN for the flex fuel line from pump to frame hard line, you will need two Quick Disconnect fuel to AN -6 adapters.

They look like this- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MImKSfj5ns7wIVjwytBh1KEgriEAQYASABEgKOFPD_BwE

I believe the hard line at the frame is 3/8" and the pump is 5/16" and the OEM line is actually an adapter. Once those two are snapped on, you need two push lock AN -6 female swivels and a piece of fuel rated hose.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPE-22006?rrec=true

Aeroquip socketless is fuel rated.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fcn0603

Order one male steel fitting so you have something to clamp in the vise to thread the push lock fitting onto. Warm the end with a heat gun, put a bit of oil in the hose, push it on. You will screw it up if you try it most other ways.

Alternately, you can get a compression x -6 male, cut the quick disconnect end off the frame hard line and use that fitting there. I have those in 3/8" if you need one.
 
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Mike_H

Mike_H

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If you want to convert to AN for the flex fuel line from pump to frame hard line, you will need two Quick Disconnect fuel to AN -6 adapters.

They look like this- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MImKSfj5ns7wIVjwytBh1KEgriEAQYASABEgKOFPD_BwE

I believe the hard line at the frame is 3/8" and the pump is 5/16" and the OEM line is actually an adapter. Once those two are snapped on, you need two push lock AN -6 female swivels and a piece of fuel rated hose.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPE-22006?rrec=true

Aeroquip socketless is fuel rated.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fcn0603

Order one male steel fitting so you have something to clamp in the vise to thread the push lock fitting onto. Warm the end with a heat gun, put a bit of oil in the hose, push it on. You will screw it up if you try it most other ways.

Alternately, you can get a compression x -6 male, cut the quick disconnect end off the frame hard line and use that fitting there. I have those in 3/8" if you need one.
Thanks. I found another post where you mentioned using -6 line and AN fittings if you had to replace the Factory flex line from the tank. I ordered this stuff from Amazon...hopefully it is good enough. Finding this stuff locally is not easy to do.

1617805406213.png


The tank fitting is a 3/8" QD, so, I'll go 3/8 QD to AN male. The Female swivels for the hose are included in the "kit" I bought. Then the 5/16" QD is on the frame rail hardline. Pretty confident in that part of the solution.

I'd like to shorten the hard line on the frame and this is where it gets sketchy (maybe). I'm planning on cutting the tube, and using a brass 5/16 x 5/16 compression union to "splice" the QD fitting from the factory back in. Good idea or not?
 

mrblaine

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Its ok...I'm a pretty terrible photographer.
You are not as terrible of a photographer as he is a photograph looker atter. Anyone that doesn't recognize the shock and fuel tank crossmember needs some visual aids, or maybe they have visual aids.
 
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mrblaine

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Thanks. I found another post where you mentioned using -6 line and AN fittings if you had to replace the Factory flex line from the tank. I ordered this stuff from Amazon...hopefully it is good enough. Finding this stuff locally is not easy to do.

View attachment 241645

The tank fitting is a 3/8" QD, so, I'll go 3/8 QD to AN male. The Female swivels for the hose are included in the "kit" I bought. Then the 5/16" QD is on the frame rail hardline. Pretty confident in that part of the solution.

I'd like to shorten the hard line on the frame and this is where it gets sketchy (maybe). I'm planning on cutting the tube, and using a brass 5/16 x 5/16 compression union to "splice" the QD fitting from the factory back in. Good idea or not?
I wouldn't use brass on the hard line but you will struggle to find a 5/16 in steel.
 
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Mike_H

Mike_H

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I wouldn't use brass on the hard line but you will struggle to find a 5/16 in steel.
The other option is something like this...

1617806999824.png


Then using a female to female union

1617807068969.png

And finally an AN to QD fitting

1617807103433.png


I didn't like the idea of brass either, but I like it better than spending another 30+ bucks to do the same thing...

Of course, there is the option to just go from the hard line to the flex line and only install the QD on the tank. Not sure how much more difficult that will make tank removal in the future.
 

mrblaine

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The other option is something like this...

View attachment 241647

Then using a female to female union

View attachment 241648
And finally an AN to QD fitting

View attachment 241649

I didn't like the idea of brass either, but I like it better than spending another 30+ bucks to do the same thing...

Of course, there is the option to just go from the hard line to the flex line and only install the QD on the tank. Not sure how much more difficult that will make tank removal in the future.
Why can't you use -6 male in an adapter at the hardline other than being able to find it?
 

LONGJP2

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What about putting the bracket back where it was (on all three lines), and then add an extension bracket connected to the original hole.
 

Vasq

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kind of an off topic question, but are these aftermarket spring perch's or did you just relocate and/or flip the factory mounts?
 
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Mike_H

Mike_H

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kind of an off topic question, but are these aftermarket spring perch's or did you just relocate and/or flip the factory mounts?
They are aftermarket, factory style spring perches. They are dorman, from Rock Auto, because my originals were pretty rusty. I didn't flip them side for side, I just trimmed the brackets off, even with the coil bucket.
 
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Mike_H

Mike_H

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My fuel line is now mucho mejor. I bought some chinese import AN stuff from Evil Energy on Amazon. Seems of decent quality...but I don't have a lot of experience with this stuff. WAY back in college, I used aeroquip and earls stuff on the formula SAE car, but that was 20+ years ago and I remember it being a major pain in the ass to assemble...just like this stuff was. I also found a stainless steel compression union for 5/16" line that I used to shorten the factory fuel rail. A couple pics...

This is the overall picture

1617936116012.png


Close up of the fuel line splice to the QD. I used a QD because I wasn't sure of two things...One..would I be able to get a reliable connection with a compression to AN flare? Probably...but the bigger reason is that when dropping the tank for future work, I wanted a couple of places to disconnect. I didn't want to run out of line and have to fight fitting my hands between the tub and the tank to try and get my tank QD off. Here is a detail of that...you'll notice how close the QD is to the backflow preventer? Its too close for a Fuel line tool... The QD does seperate, but it leaves the plastic insert on the hard line.

1617936323807.png


Because of all that above, I included a QD on the opposite end of the flex line too...

1617936410891.png


This pic also shows the hard line to hard line compression fitting. Its routed much more cleanly than before. I'll get a couple Adel clamps at the hardware tomorrow to support the hardline fittings.

Overall I'm much happier with this routing. It looks cleaner and I'll be able to support it properly. Thinking about it now, I probably should have bent up a little bracket to screw to the frame and bought a bulkhead fitting...Maybe I will in the future. For now, this will work and I don't think it will rub the sheath away anywhere.
 
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