My 98 TJ, 4.0, just had the check engine light come on. I was a mile from AutoZone and had the codes read. New to me engine (75,000) have 500 miles on it, no issues (until now). It stalled once on at a stoplight on the way top AutoZone (first stall to date). P0108 manifold absolute pressure/baro sensor high input AND P0463 fuel level sensor A circuit high input. Now stalling like crazy unless, it seems, I'm running at 2500 rpm. Thoughts? (Thanks in advance and merry Christmas)
Stalling when operating temperature reached
- Thread starter Hhottrod
- Start date
Update: That was Thursday night. I just got to looking at it. I just started it in the garage. It didn't stall until it reached operating temperature. Could it be my post-catalytic oxygen sensor? Do they fail on a dime like that?
So it runs great cold, and stalls when it warms up (10 minutes or so)? Does it restart when it cools off?
I would buy a new crank sensor for it.
I would buy a new crank sensor for it.
Did you get it fixed?
Does yours now or before sputter once in awhile, or stall at low,speed or at stop signs? Mines doing this every so often. I grabbed a new CPS from auto zone but looking at Chris post above guessing I'll swing by mopar.
Thanks
Does yours now or before sputter once in awhile, or stall at low,speed or at stop signs? Mines doing this every so often. I grabbed a new CPS from auto zone but looking at Chris post above guessing I'll swing by mopar.
Thanks
The problem of an engine that runs ok when cold but has problems when the engine has warmed up is nearly always caused by a bad upstream O2 sensor. The computer doesn't look at the data from the O2 sensors when the engine is cold, it relies on a canned program of how to set the air-fuel mixture. But once the engine starts to get warmed up it switches from that canned program to the upstream O2 sensor(s) for how to set the air-fuel mixture. A bad upstream O2 sensor can cause a warmed up engine to fall on its face.
Your '98 fortunately has just one upstream sensor which is mounted on the exhaust just below the header system. If you decide to replace it, make sure to ONLY install an NTK branded sensor. Other brands of O2 sensors, especially Bosch, can cause problems in a Jeep. There's no need to also replace the downstream O2 sensor mounted on the catalytic converter, it has nothing to do with your problem... it just monitors the catalytic converter for proper operation.
Whoa. What a great answer. I have an '89 Honda Prelude with a "crank but no/difficult start" problem. It had sat all winter, battery ran down, and just wouldn't start. Coolant temp sensor and TPS sensor (and related circuits) checked out ok with aid of a special harness (with the exception of a "tiny" dead spot in the TPS.
I could coax it to start by unplugging the TPS and it would run fine (but with hesitation at low RPM if I press too hard on the accelerator). When engine reached operating temp it would stall and not restart till cool again.
Then I bled the coolant and with TPS hooked up again that really brought the engine back to life though I'm still puzzled as a coolant temperature sensor that is (or isn't) surrounded by coolant would still have high impedance when cold and I figure that is what the ECU is looking for when engine is cold. Anyhow, car drives perfectly as before.
Last problem is stalling at operating temp. I let the engine idle a while because I was worried about the stall at operating temp problem. Then it stalled. Big mystery until I read your very interesting post. I'm not getting any O2 sensor codes but I have in the past and replaced said sensors more than once. So I'll look at this aspect.
Thanks for the tip!