1997 SE 2.5L. Just replaced the starter motor. I see a gap, shown in the pics below. I didn't notice this when I was removing the OEM. I could swap them again to see, but thought I'd ask here first. Is this normal / ok?
Starter Motor Fitment (with pics)
- Thread starter SSTJ
- Start date
OP
OP
OP
p.s. Starter is working fine. I'm thinking about some Permatex to seal the gaps.
IF you still have the original OEM part that you replaced; I would compare the mounting surface areas between the two motors.
Is the part you installed an OEM or ONE THAT JUST FITS which is where the problem may be ?
Is the part you installed an OEM or ONE THAT JUST FITS which is where the problem may be ?
OP
Thanks.
Yep, I compared them before I installed the new one, but either I missed a difference or the old one had a gap too. I can always remove it and replace the old/original to see for sure.
The new one is an aftermarket. I couldn't find OEM available anywhere. The the part number was confirmed on a few trusted sites (like Summit) as fitting my model.
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OP
Bump. I'm returning the AC Delco. Just wondering if anyone out there knows what brand starters will fit a 97 SE. Several sites said that this one would, so I don't know how to make an informed purchase.
OP
Thanks. Original plan was to go with AC Delco until I found someone to rebuild the original. I don't have much of a local network so it's not something I could do in a hurry.
I just placed an order from Rock Auto for a rebuilt Mitsubishi, which is what came off mine, and so should hopefully fit. But it was almost $200 with the core fee. I could always cancel if I hear of another known-to-fit option in the next day or two.
Old_Crow
TJ Enthusiast
Maybe I'm missing something. When you had the Delco starter in there, did it bolt up, and did it work without any strange noises?
If so, I wouldn't have worried. I don't think those gaps would let anything by that was big enough to damage the clutch, (or torque converter).
If so, I wouldn't have worried. I don't think those gaps would let anything by that was big enough to damage the clutch, (or torque converter).
OP
That's right. And yes, please do stop me if there's nothing to worry about, but I couldn't see how it would be a good idea to leave a gap there, exposing the starter and clutch to whatever gunk accumulates in there over time.
I think you had the solution with some RTV.
I think the snub of that starter is aluminum...if you want to get fancy pull the nose...tig a bead on and mill it to spec.
I ran a 69 Chevy for years without the metal cover...never could find one...sure wish I still had that truck now that we have the internet and LMC.
-Mac
I think the snub of that starter is aluminum...if you want to get fancy pull the nose...tig a bead on and mill it to spec.
I ran a 69 Chevy for years without the metal cover...never could find one...sure wish I still had that truck now that we have the internet and LMC.
-Mac
OP
Yea, I started to doubt that the RTV could cover the width of the gap. I may go give it a shot and cancel the RockAuto order if it works.
If overthinking is your thing, don't stop until you think about how much longer a rebuilt Mitsubishi will last than the AC Delco. Not that I really know for sure which one will last longer but I replaced the brushes in my original starter instead of replacing it with a "Guaranteed For Life" starter from Autozone because I think my starter should be good for another 16 yrs, the other, not so long.
I'd really like to find a compact brushless starter for these Jeeps. With the 4.0 block being so universal you'd think there would be one...
-Mac
-Mac
OP
Well, just wrapping up this thread. I ended up ordering a rebuilt Denso. Fits better with a smaller gap, and of course I feel better about it than the AC Delco. Returned the AC Delco.
But, regarding the fitment, I now see what others meant about the gaps not being problematic. A few inches further back on the bell housing is a several-inch slit, which seems to be designed to let any fluids out. It seems that these starter motors just aren’t intended to be sealed up tight.
But, regarding the fitment, I now see what others meant about the gaps not being problematic. A few inches further back on the bell housing is a several-inch slit, which seems to be designed to let any fluids out. It seems that these starter motors just aren’t intended to be sealed up tight.