Starts but doesn’t crank

Aidynl

Member
Original poster
Joined
May 19, 2021
Messages
41
Location
Kelowna
2003 rubicon 4.0. Manaul
Okay let’s have some fun, Driving today doing some light off-Roading (Bumpy rocks and washboard dirt roads and wet and muddy) jeeps running the same as usual I get to the top of this hill (went up many hills before this one) and it dies thought I just stalled it but now it won’t crank over, it would almost idle for a few seconds but the tach was right above 0rpm after trying to start a few more times tach never moved and never cranked over. When it had the very low almost no idle rpm as soon as i dumped the clutch and gave it gas it instantly died. First time jeeps left me stranded where I had to hike to get service and get towed to a pavement for a tow truck.

So far I’ve tried to turn it back on after sitting for a couple hours and it won’t.

-i can hear the fuel pump click when turning the key

-Did have rough start with starting fluid swear didn’t even run for a secound but it cranked over

I am suspecting CPS but feel like I’m just crossing my fingers it’s that because I didn’t have much fun dropping my fuel tank in the past

I am mechanically inclined to a certain point so should be able to figure something out

Here’s a checklist I think I should start with
IMG_8278.jpeg


for the fuel pump my Jeep has always started right away never had to try to crank it over for awhile doesn’t seem to bog out at all unless the fuel pump just gave me no warnings and broke.

Here’s codes I’ have, had them for awhile
IMG_8279.jpeg



If you guys have any ideas or more things to check let me know thank you all !
 
Last edited:
Load test the battery (replace if needed), and check the battery cables (including the battery clamps themselves), wiring going to the starter, the ground connections between the battery and frame, as well as between the engine and frame, etc. for corrosion and/or poor connections. Without a solid 12V circuit, nothing else can happen.
Try to start it.
If it now starts, then test the alternator by measuring for 14+ VDC across the battery at idle. Less than 14 means there is insufficient output to properly charge your battery and it will fail again, even if you literally just replaced the battery.

Similar thing happened to me; my root cause was the factory battery clamp (ground), which had vibrated a groove into the post, causing an intermittent ground connection.
 
Load test the battery (replace if needed), and check the battery cables (including the battery clamps themselves), wiring going to the starter, the ground connections between the battery and frame, as well as between the engine and frame, etc. for corrosion and/or poor connections. Without a solid 12V circuit, nothing else can happen.
Try to start it.
If it now starts, then test the alternator by measuring for 14+ VDC across the battery at idle. Less than 14 means there is insufficient output to properly charge your battery and it will fail again, even if you literally just replaced the battery.

Similar thing happened to me; my root cause was the factory battery clamp (ground), which had vibrated a groove into the post, causing an intermittent ground connection.

Was thinking maybe a ground as I was on bumpy road’s, I’ll measure the voltage today and I’ll see what I can find
 
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You mean it cranks but doesn't start. It's impossible for an engine to start (run) without cranking it (turning the crankshaft). I'm not normally a grammar nazi but when it comes to mechanics words matter.

Yes your right flipped the words around sorry!
 
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