Steering center shifting due to drag link ball joint

Brian.souhan

TJ Enthusiast
Lifetime Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2020
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134
Location
Bethesda, MD
Hi all, I'm praying someone can answer my questions...but first and foremost, I have done the precursory checks, and the collar on the drag link is tight, there isn't any play I've seen in the track bar or tie rod ends (although going to relook), with that said, here's the rest of the story...

I have a very frustrating and recent problem with my 2001 TJ Wrangler Sport using the rock jock steering linkages (put on maybe 7-10 years ago). It also has a PSC heavy duty box (two years), Dana 44 axles from a 2003 rubicon, the Vanco 16 inch Big Brake Kit, lighter 37 inch tires on aluminum 17 inch rims. It has the Rubicon Express 4.5 inch lift kit, with recently changed JKS 3(.5?) inch dual rate springs, with a complete control arm replacement done about 5 years ago. There's a few other mods, but think that covers anything steering related.

Here's a summary of what seems to be happening:
Issue: Steering center shifting during turning and sometimes on bumps. Initially was very dramatic quick shift, but replaced drag link ball joint, and seems smoother, but still significant. Seems related to the drag link, as when I look under the jeep after a shift, the drag link ball joint has shifted relative to the pitman arm. After removing the ball joint, feeling it, it was out of grease (ripped) and was not smooth at all, just clunk from one side to the other. Ordered the new ball joint, and felt before install, still seemed stiff, and not perfectly smooth but didn't have grease. Installed, drove it once, and seemed ok, and parked over night. The next morning, drove it again and noticed the steering wheel was further off center…then while driving, the center shifted in a jerk causing the jeep to veer slightly, and did this while going straight (previously only shifted in turns or bumps). For the rest of the drive, I could feel some shifting of the center point in turns and over bumps, but at least it was smoother (still some small jerks) then before installing and even the first shift. After parking back in my garage, I checked the drag link ball joint and noted that it was shifted compared to when I first installed, which leads me to believe the shift in steering is related to the drag link ball joint shifting during turns and bumps and not returning to where it was...I just have no idea why as I've had the jeep 20 years without this.

Recent changes: Lowered from a 4.5 inch spring to a 3.5 inch spring…did alignment (not full fourwheel drive) after, and measurements that weren't adjusted were off, but seemed acceptable from what I read online. I replaced the trackbar bar bushing. The lowering actually centered the axles much better, didn’t realize how far off they were from center for years, but never had issues. Also went from a heavier 35 inch wheel/tire to a similar weight 37 inch wheel/tire combo (and yes, understand the its also moment of inertia, but I don’t wheel hard, just like the look of the 37 and it makes 35 inch obstacles easier and that’s my limit).

Recent driving: Not normally my daily driver, but my GC was in shop over a month for the air suspension (I’m incredibly angry about that), so was driving on DC area roads, which are pretty bad in many areas. With the lowering and bigger tires, steering was actually significantly better than before, less bump steer, more solid, and less play. Everything felt tight, but then slowly started degrading. Believe track bar bushing was last mod I did before this issue.

Anything you can suggest would be great, or even if someone could explain exactly how (I'm an electrical engineer, so this mechanical stuff is annoying!) the TJ linkage is truly supposed to work, so that I know what I need to look for...really never had an issue like this.
 
Thanks, will recheck those, but last known they were and were locked with the castle nuts. Curious if either the drag link to other bar (forgive, I’m terrible with nomenclature) was bad if that could cause the issue. Also have read that if alignment (can’t recall which particular component of) off, that can mess with return to center, so was wondering if that was too bad if that might impact the actual drag link ball joint. My only other thought is that it is possible to get a bad ball joint new…but very very unlikely. A bit desperate here!

Thanks for any thoughts and ideas.
 
If @mrblaine posts, he has a strong grasp on steering design and can likely explain what you are experiencing and why.
 
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Thanks, will recheck those, but last known they were and were locked with the castle nuts. Curious if either the drag link to other bar (forgive, I’m terrible with nomenclature) was bad if that could cause the issue. Also have read that if alignment (can’t recall which particular component of) off, that can mess with return to center, so was wondering if that was too bad if that might impact the actual drag link ball joint. My only other thought is that it is possible to get a bad ball joint new…but very very unlikely. A bit desperate here!

Thanks for any thoughts and ideas.
The swivel ends on the drag link and tie rod assembly are called Tie Rod Ends.....
Inspect each TRE when the steering is moved; the TRE will appear to try to separate into two individual parts if the TRE is going bad.
There are four TREs; one on each steering knuckle, one where drag link connects to the tie rod assembly and one at the steering box pitman arm.
 
Last edited:
Awesome, hope he sees this one!
Do a test for us. Find some place you can drive and pay attention to what is going on that is straight. See if you can hold the steering wheel straight on center or does it lack the ability to do that? We call it popping over center. The steering wheel can't be straight, it pops over to either side requiring constant correction. If that is happening, steering gear is bad.

That and I didn't see that you centered the front after it was lowered.
 
Do a test for us. Find some place you can drive and pay attention to what is going on that is straight. See if you can hold the steering wheel straight on center or does it lack the ability to do that? We call it popping over center. The steering wheel can't be straight, it pops over to either side requiring constant correction. If that is happening, steering gear is bad.

That and I didn't see that you centered the front after it was lowered.
 
Thanks Mr. Blaine, I did the test, and the steering has no issue holding center, in fact it feels tight and good, except the occasional shifting. I'm open on best way to measure center of axle, but tried a few different points, and found it centered to within 1/4-1/2 an inch after the lowering.

I also did a static steering test and took some videos but saw no movement (will review and post snippets later today). I then drove it around taking video of the TRE for the drag link at the pitman arm as I did multiple turns and tried a few quick reactionary sharp inputs, but wasn't able to see anything shifting this time. Will review again as I did once or twice thought I felt is slip a little, but very minor.

Thanks for the advice!
 
Looked up last alignment after lowering…final values: 0.15 toe for both, 0.3/0.4 caster for driver/passenger, and finally -0.5/-1.0 camber driver/passenger.
 
Looked up last alignment after lowering…final values: 0.15 toe for both, 0.3/0.4 caster for driver/passenger, and finally -0.5/-1.0 camber driver/passenger.
And some videos...both static steering test and some driving videos, but in was unable to duplicate issue...will keep the camera on the drag link and if happens again, will post video of it...but if anyone sees anything in these, I would appreciate it!
 

Attachments

  • Drag Link TRE Static.mp4
    22.4 MB
  • Drag to Tie Rod TRE Static.mp4
    26.5 MB
  • Driver TRE Static.mp4
    34.6 MB
  • Passenger TRE Static.mp4
    25.7 MB
  • Drag Link TRE Driving low res 1.mp4
    23.6 MB
  • Drag Link TRE Driving low res 2.mp4
    19.5 MB
Ok, so one of the things I have hated is that sometimes people would post problems, and there would be lots of suggestions, but no final conclusion, so here’s my update…although this might be such a rare issue no one ever has it!

After not capturing the issue on video, I took the jeep out and out the tire against the curb and again was able to get it to clunk and knock the steering off center…after doing that a it, took it in and carefully inspected everything…and what I found was looking at the track bar bolt to the axle, the bedliner spray around the bolt was removed…so what was happening was that although the bolt was rarely tight, the hole was wallowed out, so under just the right conditions, it would shift a few millimeters quickly, and then under another set, shift back a bit more smoothly. What shocked me was how such a little movement caused that. To fix, I moved from the M10 bolt to a 7/16th bolt (M12 just was a bit too large). Since doing that I’ve had no issues.

What still bothers me though is that my track bar bushing is still a tad bit larger than the 7/16 bolt, and was definitely larger than the M10 bolt, so why wasn’t this a previous issue…best I can figure is that it was a combo of the wallowing and maybe a slight bit of loosening of the bolt related to the wallowing. Anyways, would love o hear if anyone had any more thoughts as my experience is limited!

Again thanks everyone for the advice and knowledge in this forum!
 
Ok, so one of the things I have hated is that sometimes people would post problems, and there would be lots of suggestions, but no final conclusion, so here’s my update…although this might be such a rare issue no one ever has it!

After not capturing the issue on video, I took the jeep out and out the tire against the curb and again was able to get it to clunk and knock the steering off center…after doing that a it, took it in and carefully inspected everything…and what I found was looking at the track bar bolt to the axle, the bedliner spray around the bolt was removed…so what was happening was that although the bolt was rarely tight, the hole was wallowed out, so under just the right conditions, it would shift a few millimeters quickly, and then under another set, shift back a bit more smoothly. What shocked me was how such a little movement caused that. To fix, I moved from the M10 bolt to a 7/16th bolt (M12 just was a bit too large). Since doing that I’ve had no issues.

What still bothers me though is that my track bar bushing is still a tad bit larger than the 7/16 bolt, and was definitely larger than the M10 bolt, so why wasn’t this a previous issue…best I can figure is that it was a combo of the wallowing and maybe a slight bit of loosening of the bolt related to the wallowing. Anyways, would love o hear if anyone had any more thoughts as my experience is limited!

Again thanks everyone for the advice and knowledge in this forum!
Not even an uncommon issue and your lack of understanding is also very common. The hole in the bushing and the hole in the mount are mostly irrelevant within reason. The clamping force from the bolt holding the ends of the bolt sleeve against the inside face of the mount is the only thing that makes that connection and all other slip critical connections work. You didn't fix it because you went to a larger bolt, you fixed it because you got a good bolt in there tightened correctly as in not loose enough that it doesn't lock down the bolt sleeve and not so tight that you ruined the bolt by overstretching it.

The wallowing is only due to the connection being loose, nothing more.
 
Not even an uncommon issue and your lack of understanding is also very common. The hole in the bushing and the hole in the mount are mostly irrelevant within reason. The clamping force from the bolt holding the ends of the bolt sleeve against the inside face of the mount is the only thing that makes that connection and all other slip critical connections work. You didn't fix it because you went to a larger bolt, you fixed it because you got a good bolt in there tightened correctly as in not loose enough that it doesn't lock down the bolt sleeve and not so tight that you ruined the bolt by overstretching it.

The wallowing is only due to the connection being loose, nothing more.
Thanks! That’s what I was thinking…that is was the clamping force holding it, which is why I initially kept the M10 bolt when I replaced the bushing…guess I should have checked it better, but feel more comfortable with the 7/16…also torqued to 70ft-lbs, and will be sure to check more often!
 
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Glad you got it sorted out. I had the exact same problem and it drive me nuts for weeks. I finally marked all the books and found it was the axle end of the track bar. Everything was torqued properly when installed but that had come loose enough to move just a bit (both ways, just like you). Torqued it down again and no problems since. Good work solving your issue!

Doug