Steering component advice

C

Chris32win

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Joined
Oct 8, 2018
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39
Location
Boise, ID
Hey guys, I’ve got a thread going about suspension suggestions and you guys have been a lot of help. I figured I’d make a separate thread on my steering. I’ve got a 2000 SE with 153k on it. It’s mostly stock but has a 2inch spacer list from previous owner. I’m planning to change this to a 2-2.5 inch spring lift so keeping it simple. Mainly dirt/rocky/rutted/washboard road stuff, no major rocks or crawling at all. Just get me fishing and camping and I’m happy

I bought it late this past fall and now that spring is here I’m trying to take care of the necessary stuff I haven’t finished. I’m including some pictures. As you can see a number of my grease points are leaky and the steering stabilizer looks ready to be replaced. I’ve read the forums on alignment and how I can do that myself so me and my neighbor/father in law will work that out. I need advice on what needs to be addressed beyond the steering stabilizer as I’m new and learning to identify this stuff. Your advice will help me prioritize what gets done first.

The steering feel is “ok” but it does wander about a bit at speed. Thanks for your help

If You need better photos please let me know.

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Most people change the steering linkage out for something like the Currie.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EM9F5M/?tag=wranglerorg-20
The reason is that it is stronger than the stock linkage. But it is only needed if you are going to be in the rocks where the stock steering can get bent. The bad of the Currie steering is it is expensive and if some of the TRE's go bad they can't be replaced. But they last a long time. Read up on death wobble
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...ng-vibrations-or-death-wobble-read-this.6883/
And here is a thread on your steering. Instead of me trying to offer advice you can just read this.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/which-steering-kit-should-i-go-with.11117/
 
Thats awesome feedback guys thank you. I've been pouring over these forums and have heard of folks doing the ZJ ti rod upgrade stuff but hadn't found Chris' article on that detailing the pieces and components to buy. Thats super helpful.

This is a novice question but when I'm looking under my jeep and seeing these components with grease leaking all over I honestly don't know if that just means I'm going to need to grease them more frequently since its not all staying in there or if it means its time to replace stuff. As someone who is trying to prioritize things, would replacing components like what's in the ZJ upgrade link be important or is this just a matter of "grease more often - change when you get to it." I'm trying to distinguish between "yeah that needs fixing pretty quick" and "that looks like a problem but isn't actually harming things" on a lot of my jeep. You guys have been so helpful in learning the difference so far. Thank you
 
Here's a photo that gives the names for everything. With the size tires you can install after installing a 2-3" suspension lift, the only thing I'd worry about in your steering system is the tie rod. As identified below. The factory tie rod has a small diameter and it's hollow which means it's not all that hard to bend it.

My usual steering upgrade recommendation is Currie's HD Currectlync Steering Kit but that would be overkill until you go with even larger tires after installing a taller than 2-3" suspension lift. So for now, Chris's recommendation of a ZJ tie rod would be the ideal way to beef up your steering system.

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Most tie rods are designed to let grease escape from the boots a little. Just because they are greasy doesn't mean they are worn out. Just clean the dirty grease up best you can and grease them every oil change. Old, contaminated grease out, fresh grease in. The key to finding out if the tie rods need replaced is to do a "dry steering test". That is where you and a helper turn the steering wheel back and forth while the engine is off. put you hands on each tie rod and also visibly look for lateral or vertical play in the joint. If there is play, it's time for replacement.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Here's a photo that gives the names for everything. With the size tires you can install after installing a 2-3" suspension lift, the only thing I'd worry about in your steering system is the tie rod. As identified below. The factory tie rod has a small diameter and it's hollow which means it's not all that hard to bend it.

My usual steering upgrade recommendation is Currie's HD Currectlync Steering Kit but that would be overkill until you go with even larger tires after installing a taller than 2-3" suspension lift. So for now, Chris's recommendation of a ZJ tie rod would be the ideal way to beef up your steering system.

View attachment 83190
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Yes! I love that image. I saved that when I stumbled upon it in your alignment thread which I'm also excited to do for the first time. Good to know about the Tie rod. Yeah I'm not planning to go bigger on tires with my usage expectations as well as with it being a 2.5l. I don't have plans for a re-gear anytime soon financially either so I'm going to stick with these 32's until the wear out and probably stay at 31 or 32inch tires.
 
bobthetj03 said:
Most tie rods are designed to let grease escape from the boots a little. Just because they are greasy doesn't mean they are worn out. Just clean the dirty grease up best you can and grease them every oil change. Old, contaminated grease out, fresh grease in. The key to finding out if the tie rods need replaced is to do a "dry steering test". That is where you and a helper turn the steering wheel back and forth while the engine is off. put you hands on each tie rod and also visibly look for lateral or vertical play in the joint. If there is play, it's time for replacement.
Click to expand...

Exactly the answer I needed. I'll clean them up and do my best to check for that kind of play in those components and re-grease them if they look good, swap them if they don't.
 
To test your ball joints you jack one front tire off the ground at a time and then grab the tire at 6 & 12 position and try to push pull it. While doing this look around the tire at the ball joints and see if you see any movement. You will know if it is loose.

On the TJ you can get the wobble in the front if you have any loose components. This is why your want to make sure that your tie rod ends are good and then the ends on your track bar. If there is any slop in any of them it will cause the wobble in the front end. Good luck.

While you have that tire off the ground you can also grab the tires at the 3 & 9 position and try to push pull again and this will show any slop in your steering parts.
 
^^^ This is also a good way to check if there is play in your unit bearings.

For ball joints, I jack the front tire about 2" off the ground, then put a long pry bar under the bottom of the tire and lift the wheel up with the pry bar while also looking at the ball joints. There should be no vertical play.
 
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You guys rock. Love the test methods and will definitely check them out.

To make sure I understand about the dry steering test, obviously there are going to be pivot points that allow movement of the steering components but those pivot points themselves should not be physically moving to the right or left (in or out) or up and down, correct? that is the type of "play" I'm looking for?
 
Chris32win said:
You guys rock. Love the test methods and will definitely check them out.

To make sure I understand about the dry steering test, obviously there are going to be pivot points that allow movement of the steering components but those pivot points themselves should not be physically moving to the right or left (in or out) or up and down, correct? that is the type of "play" I'm looking for?
Click to expand...

Yes, the tie rods/ball joints are a ball and socket connection, with grease lubricating that connection. If the ball or socket have internal movement side to side or up/down that is not good for the connection. The ball stem is meant to move with the action of the other steering components.
 
Here is a video of checking all those parts. Not the best quality and hard to hear but he hits all the ways to test it. It is on a JK but basically the same thing.

 
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