Steering components: OEM vs aftermarket?

[imactj2004]

Feel free to point me to a post that answers this decision process. Didnt immediately find it in the “official” lift thread.

When should someone go with aftermarket steering components vs OEM? ie: beyond a certain lift hight? type of use? if replacing X then also replace Y?

 

[Jerry Bransford]

The tie rod is the weakest part of the steering system, it is made from a thin hollow tube. Most upgrade their tie-rod to something stronger soon after they start offroading. The OEM tie rod can bend if you get into a bind offroad or run it into anything. So if you're planning to go offroad much I'd have a stronger replacement tie rod on my short list. What size tires are you running and do you plan to go larger later?

 

[imactj2004]

I’m only on 31” with a 2” lift. May go down to 29” tires since Im not really planning any serious off-roading. Just the occasional trail use. Trying to get what was a salvaged vehicle back into good shape for my teenage driver to use as a daily driver.

Current steering components have some play/shimmy so Im trying to determine whether to simply replace bushings or actual hardware.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Here's a way to see what's causing play. With the tires on the ground have a helper do quick left-right turns with the steering wheel while you closely watch the steering system and look for any side-to-side slop between any of the connections. Also note if the Pitman arm and steering box seem to be responding well to steering input. There is normal rotational play about the long axis of the tie rod, drag link, and track bar due to them being mounted on ball joints.

Speed sensitive shimmy is normally caused by either a bad front tire or an imperfectly balanced front tire.

 

[cpwolf]

I did what Jerry suggested and took me down then path to get it driving 75+ Highway with zero issues, on 4”, so definitely follow it.

The ZJ had a beefier tie rod and I did that first, probably enough for your setup, then where to Currie Currectlync when I went to 35’s. How to is here

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/zj-tie-rod-conversion.2373/

 

[imactj2004]

Here's a way to see what's causing play. With the tires on the ground have a helper do quick left-right turns with the steering wheel while you closely watch the steering system and look for any side-to-side slop between any of the connections. Also note if the Pitman arm and steering box seem to be responding well to steering input. There is normal rotational play about the long axis of the tie rod, drag link, and track bar due to them being mounted on ball joints.

Speed sensitive shimmy is normally caused by either a bad front tire or an imperfectly balanced front tire.

assuming I can isolate the slop, will new bushings be sufficient or should I replace the hardware as well?

View attachment 397973

 

[cpwolf]

assuming I can isolate the slop, will new bushings be sufficient or should I replace the hardware as well?

In the steering, Tie Rod ends are ball joints, you have to replace the TRE joint.

Bushings that could cause issue would be Control Arm bushings, start with the steering, own step at a time.