Ok I posted this as a reply and thought it deserves its own post. The Additional is in ALL CAPS. I also included a copy paste of the text from the factory service manual. I am just trying to save people a little money and fix a couple self-caused issues that almost everyone does incorrectly. If the service manual had explained why to do it the way it is says to…….
I would like to correct a couple of misconceptions that causes loose Squirrley steering, short lived steering gearboxes, and wasted money. This applies to most Jeeps that I have come across with a “loose” steering issue, assuming the steering components are in at lease fair condition. If you ignore these misconceptions your Jeep will drive true and be responsive no matter what your tire pressure you run and even with less than perfect ball joins (not bad ones), and without damaging the gearbox by have far too little lash. You will also find your steering gearbox will last multiple times longer due to the reduced stress on the gearing and correct lash. You will find these misconceptions on every forum and YouTube how to video. Honestly, I have yet to see anyone do it correctly. Even Alignment shops and dealerships generally fail at these issues. The shop manual is actually correct (except the order) and though it is not explained sufficiently to understand why it is the correct way. Let’s get to these horrible misconceptions. * SEE LAST PARAGRAPH FROM THE MANUAL ON TOE WICH COVERS THE ONLY PROPER WAY TO CENTER THE STEERING WHEEL.
Firstly, to center your steering wheel:
Most people don’t want to hear this, but you DO NOT adjust your steering wheel center via the drag link!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This needs more emphasis so!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. The drag link adjustment is for the passenger side toe!!!!! If is the drag link as the steering wheel centering method, then you already F-ed up your whole alignment and probably think that the steering gearboxes fail too often. ADJUSTING THE DRAG LINK TO CENTER THE STEERING WHEEL IS JUST MOVEING YOUR PITMAN ARM AND GEARBOX OFF CENTER! THIS MEANS THE HYDRLIC PERSURE IS NO LONGER EQUAL ON BOTH SIDES SO THE GEARING TAKES ALL THE IMPACT INSTEAD OF IT BEING BUFFERED BY THE HYDROLIC FLUID; HENCE, YOUR GEARBOX FAILES!
Secondly, adjust gearbox lash to increase responsiveness:
Lash DOES NOT INCREASE RESPONSIVENESS! It may seem to for a bit, but I find most people have it far tighter than it should be causing it to actually loose responsiveness do to restricting the hydronic pressure. If your gearbox has play in it with the engine running, then ether your gearing is bad, or the power steering pump is not providing adequate volume or pressure. Okay or air in it. Ok ok sometimes, very very very rarely it is incorrect lash. IF THE STEERING BOX IS CENTERED AND SO IS THE PITMAN ARM THE EQULIZED PRESURE REMOVE THE PLAY IN THE WHEEL AT THE CENTER POINT. There are only three (3) reasons to ever adjust lash:
1. You, yourself just rebuilt the gearbox and it is still on the bench while you are finishing it up.
2. The lock nut came loose and now you must relash it.
3. You have been running 40” tires for the last 250,000 miles and you really want to get to 300K before having to purchase another one.
Ok let’s talk about the pitman arm arc. The pitman arm arc is a symmetrical arc as it relates to the pivot at the gearbox; however, when it is working in combination with the drag links three non-equal distance pivot points it functions as an oblique arc. This means the further it is turned from center the low the arc’s slope is between input motion on the steering wheel and out motion on the front wheels. It also means that the pitman arm must be correctly positioned to have the most equal response to both directions of turn eliminating steering wheel play. A lot of people say they have a huge dead area when the steering wheel is centered. IF the Pitman arm is incorrectly centered, One Direction will briefly go to a higher Slope arc point, making it seem to turn quicker to that direction and a lower slope turning to the other, seem to have a larger dead zone to one side. This gives that feeling of Squirrely steering feeling when driving down a straight road and making minor corrections.
Alignment:
This is assuming your Jeep is in unknown condition, so only the first time and you don’t know how bad it is boogered up it really is.
1. Ensure your Gearbox is at roughly at the center point. (Self-Explanatory)
2. Ensure you pitman arm is pointing straight backwards and directly perpendicular to the front drive axle. (If not, it isn’t on the correct spline, yank it off and replace so it is on the correct spline)
3. Ensure your steering wheel is dead centered with the pitman arm still perpendicular to the front axle. (If not, yep you guessed it, pull the intermediate steering shaft. While keeping both the pitman arm perpendicular to the axle and the steering wheel straight, replace the intermediate shaft on the correct spline. Also, the splines on the upper intermediate shaft connection and the ones on the gear box connection are ½ of a spline different. So, if you are going for perfection and it’s off a smidge, disconnect at the upper shaft and turn it one spine.) IFYOUR STEERING WHEEL AND SHAFTS ARE CORRECLY SPLINED YOU CAN THEN ALWAS DIAL YOU TOE TO THE PITMAN ARM POSITION. ONCE SET RECORD THE LEADING EDGE OF YOUR RIM TO THE ARM AND IT MAKES FOR QUICK ADJUSTMENTS.
4. Set up Alinement method: (I use the 3-string method, that is setting a center string down the middle between the two frame rails and using the center line to setup two more parallel lines to the to measure toe and trust angle. This gives you the benefit of checking the axle center and giving a second reference point to ensure parallel. It also ensures that the frame is perpendicular to the measuring lines which avoids more complicated geometry maths when calculating angle. Just good old Pythagorean theorem.)
#ProTip those magnetic tennis ball things you use to alight trailer hitch to the trailer make an excellent line holder. Just stick the magnet to the underside of you bumpers at both ends and run you line and move them to parallel. They even telescope so you can set then to whatever height makes measuring easiest. Yes, you do have to measure from the inside edge of the rim. I painted marks so I can just pop them on without having to measure ever time.
5. While keeping the pitman arm perpendicular, use the “DRAG LINK” to adjust the passenger toe to between -.15 and -.45 degrees with the sweet spot being -.30 degrees.
6. Use the tie rod adjustment to adjust the drive side tire toe to between -.15 and -.45 with the sweet spot being -.30 degrees.
7. Have a beer, the test drive can wait, you did it correctly this time so it will handle like Carol Shelby aligned it himself.
I hope this is helpful.
*
SERVICE Manuel:
TOE POSITION
NOTE: The wheel toe position adjustment is the
final adjustment. This adjustment must be performed
with the engine running, if the vehicle is
equipped with power steering.
(1) Start the engine and turn wheels both ways
before straightening the steering wheel. Center and
secure the steering wheel.
(2) Loosen the adjustment sleeve clamp bolts (Fig. 3).
(3) Adjust the right wheel toe position with the drag
link (Fig. 4). Turn the sleeve until the right wheel is at
the correct positive TOE-IN position. Position the clamp
bolts as shown (Fig. 3) and tighten to 49 N·m (36 ft.
lbs.). Make sure the toe setting does not change
during clamp tightening.
(4) Adjust the left wheel toe position with the tie
rod. Turn the sleeve until the left wheel is at the
same TOE-IN position as the right wheel. Position
the clamp bolts as shown (Fig. 3) and tighten to 27
N·m (20 ft. lbs.). Make sure the toe setting does
not change during clamp tightening.
(5) Verify the right toe specifications and turn off
the engine.
(6)Have a beer, the test drive can wait.
I would like to correct a couple of misconceptions that causes loose Squirrley steering, short lived steering gearboxes, and wasted money. This applies to most Jeeps that I have come across with a “loose” steering issue, assuming the steering components are in at lease fair condition. If you ignore these misconceptions your Jeep will drive true and be responsive no matter what your tire pressure you run and even with less than perfect ball joins (not bad ones), and without damaging the gearbox by have far too little lash. You will also find your steering gearbox will last multiple times longer due to the reduced stress on the gearing and correct lash. You will find these misconceptions on every forum and YouTube how to video. Honestly, I have yet to see anyone do it correctly. Even Alignment shops and dealerships generally fail at these issues. The shop manual is actually correct (except the order) and though it is not explained sufficiently to understand why it is the correct way. Let’s get to these horrible misconceptions. * SEE LAST PARAGRAPH FROM THE MANUAL ON TOE WICH COVERS THE ONLY PROPER WAY TO CENTER THE STEERING WHEEL.
Firstly, to center your steering wheel:
Most people don’t want to hear this, but you DO NOT adjust your steering wheel center via the drag link!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This needs more emphasis so!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. The drag link adjustment is for the passenger side toe!!!!! If is the drag link as the steering wheel centering method, then you already F-ed up your whole alignment and probably think that the steering gearboxes fail too often. ADJUSTING THE DRAG LINK TO CENTER THE STEERING WHEEL IS JUST MOVEING YOUR PITMAN ARM AND GEARBOX OFF CENTER! THIS MEANS THE HYDRLIC PERSURE IS NO LONGER EQUAL ON BOTH SIDES SO THE GEARING TAKES ALL THE IMPACT INSTEAD OF IT BEING BUFFERED BY THE HYDROLIC FLUID; HENCE, YOUR GEARBOX FAILES!
Secondly, adjust gearbox lash to increase responsiveness:
Lash DOES NOT INCREASE RESPONSIVENESS! It may seem to for a bit, but I find most people have it far tighter than it should be causing it to actually loose responsiveness do to restricting the hydronic pressure. If your gearbox has play in it with the engine running, then ether your gearing is bad, or the power steering pump is not providing adequate volume or pressure. Okay or air in it. Ok ok sometimes, very very very rarely it is incorrect lash. IF THE STEERING BOX IS CENTERED AND SO IS THE PITMAN ARM THE EQULIZED PRESURE REMOVE THE PLAY IN THE WHEEL AT THE CENTER POINT. There are only three (3) reasons to ever adjust lash:
1. You, yourself just rebuilt the gearbox and it is still on the bench while you are finishing it up.
2. The lock nut came loose and now you must relash it.
3. You have been running 40” tires for the last 250,000 miles and you really want to get to 300K before having to purchase another one.
Ok let’s talk about the pitman arm arc. The pitman arm arc is a symmetrical arc as it relates to the pivot at the gearbox; however, when it is working in combination with the drag links three non-equal distance pivot points it functions as an oblique arc. This means the further it is turned from center the low the arc’s slope is between input motion on the steering wheel and out motion on the front wheels. It also means that the pitman arm must be correctly positioned to have the most equal response to both directions of turn eliminating steering wheel play. A lot of people say they have a huge dead area when the steering wheel is centered. IF the Pitman arm is incorrectly centered, One Direction will briefly go to a higher Slope arc point, making it seem to turn quicker to that direction and a lower slope turning to the other, seem to have a larger dead zone to one side. This gives that feeling of Squirrely steering feeling when driving down a straight road and making minor corrections.
Alignment:
This is assuming your Jeep is in unknown condition, so only the first time and you don’t know how bad it is boogered up it really is.
1. Ensure your Gearbox is at roughly at the center point. (Self-Explanatory)
2. Ensure you pitman arm is pointing straight backwards and directly perpendicular to the front drive axle. (If not, it isn’t on the correct spline, yank it off and replace so it is on the correct spline)
3. Ensure your steering wheel is dead centered with the pitman arm still perpendicular to the front axle. (If not, yep you guessed it, pull the intermediate steering shaft. While keeping both the pitman arm perpendicular to the axle and the steering wheel straight, replace the intermediate shaft on the correct spline. Also, the splines on the upper intermediate shaft connection and the ones on the gear box connection are ½ of a spline different. So, if you are going for perfection and it’s off a smidge, disconnect at the upper shaft and turn it one spine.) IFYOUR STEERING WHEEL AND SHAFTS ARE CORRECLY SPLINED YOU CAN THEN ALWAS DIAL YOU TOE TO THE PITMAN ARM POSITION. ONCE SET RECORD THE LEADING EDGE OF YOUR RIM TO THE ARM AND IT MAKES FOR QUICK ADJUSTMENTS.
4. Set up Alinement method: (I use the 3-string method, that is setting a center string down the middle between the two frame rails and using the center line to setup two more parallel lines to the to measure toe and trust angle. This gives you the benefit of checking the axle center and giving a second reference point to ensure parallel. It also ensures that the frame is perpendicular to the measuring lines which avoids more complicated geometry maths when calculating angle. Just good old Pythagorean theorem.)
#ProTip those magnetic tennis ball things you use to alight trailer hitch to the trailer make an excellent line holder. Just stick the magnet to the underside of you bumpers at both ends and run you line and move them to parallel. They even telescope so you can set then to whatever height makes measuring easiest. Yes, you do have to measure from the inside edge of the rim. I painted marks so I can just pop them on without having to measure ever time.
5. While keeping the pitman arm perpendicular, use the “DRAG LINK” to adjust the passenger toe to between -.15 and -.45 degrees with the sweet spot being -.30 degrees.
6. Use the tie rod adjustment to adjust the drive side tire toe to between -.15 and -.45 with the sweet spot being -.30 degrees.
7. Have a beer, the test drive can wait, you did it correctly this time so it will handle like Carol Shelby aligned it himself.
I hope this is helpful.
*
SERVICE Manuel:
TOE POSITION
NOTE: The wheel toe position adjustment is the
final adjustment. This adjustment must be performed
with the engine running, if the vehicle is
equipped with power steering.
(1) Start the engine and turn wheels both ways
before straightening the steering wheel. Center and
secure the steering wheel.
(2) Loosen the adjustment sleeve clamp bolts (Fig. 3).
(3) Adjust the right wheel toe position with the drag
link (Fig. 4). Turn the sleeve until the right wheel is at
the correct positive TOE-IN position. Position the clamp
bolts as shown (Fig. 3) and tighten to 49 N·m (36 ft.
lbs.). Make sure the toe setting does not change
during clamp tightening.
(4) Adjust the left wheel toe position with the tie
rod. Turn the sleeve until the left wheel is at the
same TOE-IN position as the right wheel. Position
the clamp bolts as shown (Fig. 3) and tighten to 27
N·m (20 ft. lbs.). Make sure the toe setting does
not change during clamp tightening.
(5) Verify the right toe specifications and turn off
the engine.
(6)Have a beer, the test drive can wait.