The factory clevite bushings in my '98 are approaching 20 years old. Are they replaceable, or is it easier to just get replacement stock control arms? Or should I pony up some serious coin for the JKS slip rotation adjustable arms to minimize the stress on the brackets and let me custom tune the axle angles? Jeep is just an inch over stock suspension height, no plans to go higher.
Are the factory control arm bushings replaceable?
- Thread starter GASnBRASS
- Start date
The cost of replacement arms makes the effort to replace the bushings in your existing arms not really worth it in my opinion.
As for the JKS control arms, I looked at those and they do look interesting. If you snag a set and put them on your rig, let us know how they turn out.
X2 to StG58's comment. The factory control arm bushings are nearly impossible to get out and replace, I'd go for some aftermarket OE replacement control arms. And for a stock Jeep or one with a smaller suspension lift, the factory control arm design is better than many stronger-looking arms. It flexes well, better than many, and won't cause problems like some aftermarket arms that are strong but poorly designed.
This complete replacement set would work fine... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXL0EH6/?tag=wranglerorg-20
This complete replacement set would work fine... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXL0EH6/?tag=wranglerorg-20
@Jerry Bransford, didn't you loose some control arm brackets one time because of poor CA design? It's worth repeating that story, I think.
You have a good memory. Yes, some Teraflex control arms I installed 15+ years ago were beefy as hell but their poor design caused them to tear off two control arm brackets when the axle was flexed on the trail. Their flex joints had no flex, they were rubber at both ends but their design gave almost zero flex. Yes they could twist in the middle but that twist axis is not how the axle moves.
These are the Teraflex arms that caused the brackets to be torn off where they were welded to the axle... they look great until you learn a little more about control arms.
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I've read earlier about your teraflex arms breaking the brackets off. I've got a pair of JKS rear uppers with a sye and figured the JKS arms that twist in the middle, combined with clevite bushings, would minimize the stress on the brackets. Are you saying the teraflex arms also rotate/twist in the middle and still ripped the brackets?
Looking at how an axle moves it seems the arms would move in three ways:
up and down: as the axle moves up and down
side to side: as the axle rotates, the brackets move off center left or right
twisting: as the axle rotates, the mounting bolts at each end twist off parallel to each other
If we imagine the frame end of the arm is fixed, then the axle end moves in a cone shaped range of motion. I want to keep it's good road manners so I'm hoping to find some arms that have good range of motion, minimize vibration, and have little or no maintenance beyond a grease zerk (not interested in rebuilding joints). I was also hoping to move the front axle backward 1/4" or so to make more clearance for the track bar.
Looking at how an axle moves it seems the arms would move in three ways:
up and down: as the axle moves up and down
side to side: as the axle rotates, the brackets move off center left or right
twisting: as the axle rotates, the mounting bolts at each end twist off parallel to each other
If we imagine the frame end of the arm is fixed, then the axle end moves in a cone shaped range of motion. I want to keep it's good road manners so I'm hoping to find some arms that have good range of motion, minimize vibration, and have little or no maintenance beyond a grease zerk (not interested in rebuilding joints). I was also hoping to move the front axle backward 1/4" or so to make more clearance for the track bar.
If you'll re-read what I said above, you can verify that's exactly what I said.
Hard to tell from Jerry's pic, but they look like poly bushings to me, which would make them even worse. If you are going to invest in adjustable arms, get good ones.
That's why i'm interested in JKS arms, they rotate but also use stock style clevite bushings so they are almost maintenance free.
Again, pay no (zip, nada!) attention to the fact an arm may be able rotate about its long axis. That is not an axis the axle typically moves in. If that were true, my Teraflex arms, which rotated in the middle, wouldn't have ripped two control arm mounting brackets off where they were welded to the axles. When there's nothing but a bushing and no actual flex joint, this can happen whether the bushing is made from rubber, Clevite, or polyurethane.
Such damage won't occur when a Jeep only sees mild mostly level trails but it can and will when the axles start having to flex like a TJ's suspension is capable of doing.
I'm not sure yet, the jeep is torn apart. Was looking to put on an armor diff cover and everything I've read says that armor diff covers interfere with the TB. And some other comments have said that full armor covers are overkill.
You are correct, they are overkill. Maybe now would be a good opportunity to check out the front while you have the tub off the frame? Pull the front springs/shocks and put er at full bump and see what you gots.
That sound like a good idea, and I might leave the shocks on to see if the bump stops are correct vs shock length.
Ok so Jerry's pic just freaked me out freaked me out a bit because I have those on front lower. The rest are stock. I haven't done any major wheeling but who knows what this summer will bring and I really don't want to chance it. ( and they have always squeaked a bit which is annoying ).
So thinking of getting the savvy double adjustable front lowers to replace them. I can't afford a full set right now thinking of building it up over time, which I know isn't optimal so checking to see if getting just fronts would cause any problems assuming just set them to same length as stock.
I have a 2.5" lift which I think I may up to a 3" one day
( I did not see double adjustable lowers on currie site, but i think someone mentioned they had them )
So thinking of getting the savvy double adjustable front lowers to replace them. I can't afford a full set right now thinking of building it up over time, which I know isn't optimal so checking to see if getting just fronts would cause any problems assuming just set them to same length as stock.
I have a 2.5" lift which I think I may up to a 3" one day
( I did not see double adjustable lowers on currie site, but i think someone mentioned they had them )
For a simple control arm replacement, I don't see the need to pay extra for double-adjustable. If your front axle is set up properly as is with good caster angle etc., just set the new control arm lengths to the exact same length as what is in there now and install them. Easy-peasy.