Stock Spring Swap Walk-Thru with Pics

[Bkspear]

With shocks and track bar disconnected, the rear axle should be easy to move around. [Edit: And sway bar, of course!] Sounds like the track bar may be the issue. You could disconnect it at the axle end instead of the frame end if that's easier.

If you're not working with stock suspension components, send pictures so we can see what's going on.

I finally found a spring compressor and this solved my problem. Thanks.

 

[SSTJ]

Front Spring Removal


5. Remove the track bar from the axle bracket. Loosely tie the track bar to the bracket in a position clear of other components. (15mm, 40 ft-lbs.) — This is another step that FSM says to do after you've jacked up and supported the vehicle, but the bolt will certainly be under load if you do that. Getting this bolt out while it's under load is a PITA and you risk damaging the threads. If you take out this bolt while the vehicle is sitting on level ground, there should be little to no tension on the bolt. If you do need to release tension on the bolt to slide it out, have a friend do a little dry steering to gently shift the position of the frame relative to the axle.

For what it's worth: on my 97, I found that the track bar was attached to the axle bracket with a T50, rather than a 15mm hex.

 

[SSTJ]

I just saw this in the How to Align Your Jeep Wrangler thread, and I wish I had seen it when I started this job. Learning the names of all the front suspension and steering parts and figuring out where they are was one of the first hurdles.

View attachment 50426

Also, now that I've been driving with the new springs, I notice that my steering wheel is just slightly off center. It used to be exactly centered. PO said he had the death wobble fixed, and the tie rod ends looked newer than other parts, so it may be that he had the alignment done with the old sagging springs. I may just give the drag link a twist and see if I can line the steering wheel back up.

I know this is an old comment, but I just had the same thing happen. Replaced stock springs and now I drift to the right while driving. did you have luck by adjusting your drag link?

 

[fuse]

For what it's worth: on my 97, I found that the track bar was attached to the axle bracket with a T50, rather than a 15mm hex.

Interesting. Sounds like that might be the same as the rear track bar axle bracket bolt. There's a reason the rear track bar uses a T50 at the axle, but no particular reason for the front track bar to use anything special.

I know this is an old comment, but I just had the same thing happen. Replaced stock springs and now I drift to the right while driving. did you have luck by adjusting your drag link?

Yes, that fixed it. I think I pulled in to the garage and left the steering wheel angled so the Jeep would drive straight (just eyeballed it from memory), then adjusted the drag link to straighten the steering wheel. I might have checked toe-in after that, but I don't remember the adjustment being enough to make a difference.

You could always do a full DIY alignment: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-align-your-jeep-wrangler-tj.85/

 

[SSTJ]

Interesting. Sounds like that might be the same as the rear track bar axle bracket bolt. There's a reason the rear track bar uses a T50 at the axle, but no particular reason for the front track bar to use anything special.


Yes, that fixed it. I think I pulled in to the garage and left the steering wheel angled so the Jeep would drive straight (just eyeballed it from memory), then adjusted the drag link to straighten the steering wheel. I might have checked toe-in after that, but I don't remember the adjustment being enough to make a difference.

You could always do a full DIY alignment: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-align-your-jeep-wrangler-tj.85/

Nice, thank you. And yes, was just reading that thread. I'm surprised that you and I had so much adjustment after such a minor "lift", but it's a fun excuse to learn something new.

Out of curiosity, what's the reason for the rear track bar to use the T50?

 

[fuse]

Out of curiosity, what's the reason for the rear track bar to use the T50?

So that the bolt head doesn't punch a hole in the gas tank in a collision. That's apparently also the reason for the plastic shim that goes over the axle bracket for the rear track bar.

 

[SSTJ]

So that the bolt head doesn't punch a hole in the gas tank in a collision. That's apparently also the reason for the plastic shim that goes over the axle bracket for the rear track bar.

Ha, I was wondering about that plastic shim recently, too! Guess I better put it back on. Thanks.

 

[AaronPaul]

Front Spring Removal

I've included the tools and torque spec for each fastener in parens, even for disassembly where it's nice to know how hard you should have to push on a bolt to get it loose. These specs are for my 05 Sport. I don't know if other models or years might have different fasteners or specs, so check yours before you start wrenching.

1. Place the vehicle on a level surface with the transmission in park (or in gear for a MT), the transfer case in 2H and the parking brake set.
View attachment 50141

2. Measure the front spring height and shock position.
View attachment 50142 View attachment 50143

3. Disconnect sway bar links at axle. (18mm & T55, 75 ft-lbs.) — FSM says to do this after jacking up and supporting the vehicle, but I found that the bolts are under load if you do that and it's hard to get them out. If you do this while the vehicle is sitting on level ground, there should be little to no tension on the bolts. I had to lift up slightly on bumper to slide the bolt out, but then my Jeep was sitting a little low.
View attachment 50144 View attachment 50145

4. Disconnect sway bar links at sway bar and remove old links. Use a puller tool to separate links from sway bar. (15mm, 45 ft-lbs.) — You don't have to do this if you're just swapping springs, but my links were shot so I replaced them while I was working on the springs.
View attachment 50148 View attachment 50147 View attachment 50146

5. Remove the track bar from the axle bracket. Loosely tie the track bar to the bracket in a position clear of other components. (15mm, 40 ft-lbs.) — This is another step that FSM says to do after you've jacked up and supported the vehicle, but the bolt will certainly be under load if you do that. Getting this bolt out while it's under load is a PITA and you risk damaging the threads. If you take out this bolt while the vehicle is sitting on level ground, there should be little to no tension on the bolt. If you do need to release tension on the bolt to slide it out, have a friend do a little dry steering to gently shift the position of the frame relative to the axle.
View attachment 50149

6. Chock the rear wheels. Raise and support the vehicle.
View attachment 50151 View attachment 50150

7. Position a hydraulic jack under the axle to support it.
View attachment 50153

8. Remove the front wheels. (Tire iron, 100 ft-lbs.)
View attachment 50154

9. Support the axle with jack stands.
View attachment 50155

10. Remove the right side of the drag link from the right-side knuckle (19mm, 55 ft lbs.):
· Remove the cotter pin and nut at the steering knuckle.
View attachment 50157
· Remove the drag link from the steering knuckle with a puller tool. — It helps if you steer to the left first, because this opens up a better position for the puller tool.
View attachment 50156
· Loosely tie the drag link to the knuckle in a position clear of other components.
View attachment 50158

11. Unmount the front shocks from the axle. (13mm long & 10mm box end, 21 ft-lbs~250 in-lbs.) — Technically you only need a short 13mm socket, but I had trouble getting my wrench into position with a short socket. A long socket or a socket extension helps.
View attachment 50160 View attachment 50159

12. Lower the left side of the axle until the spring is free from the upper mount, or until the lower suspension arm contacts the axle bracket. — I was able to free the spring without interference from the lower suspension arm, but you might have trouble if you have a lift kit.
View attachment 50164 View attachment 50163

13. If necessary, remove left lower suspension arm mounting nuts and bolts from the frame. (21mm & 21mm box end, 130 ft-lbs.) — FSM says you need to do this even for stock springs, but I was able to get the spring out without touching these bolts.
View attachment 50169

14. If necessary, lower the left side of the axle further until the spring is free from the upper mount. — I didn't need to do this because my springs were already free.

15. If necessary, remove the left coil spring retainer clip. (13mm, 16 ft-lbs.) Remove the left coil spring. NOTE: Rotation of the spring and prying down slightly on the axle will aid in removal. — My Jeep doesn't have a spring retainer clip. You can yank on the spring to slightly compress it while putting a foot on the hub to push the axle down.
View attachment 50168

16. Return the left side of the axle to the starting position and support with jack stands.
View attachment 50175

17. Pull the left jounce bumper out of the bump stop cup. — Not necessary if you're just swapping springs, but I replaced all the rubber components too.
View attachment 50170

18. Remove the bump stop cup. (15mm, ?? ft-lbs.) — I couldn't find a torque spec for this bolt. It's not in too tight, though.
View attachment 50172

19. Remove the left upper spring isolator. Use a screwdriver to pry the isolator free. — Not necessary unless you're going to replace it as I did.
View attachment 50171

20. Install the new spring isolator in the top spring mount and seat it fully in the spring mount. — Again, only necessary if you're replacing it.
View attachment 50174

21. Reinstall the bump stop cup. (15mm, ?? ft-lbs.) — I couldn't find a torque spec for this bolt, so I just tightened it up about as much as it was when I found it.
View attachment 50173

22. If necessary, reinstall the left lower suspension arm mounting nut and bolt and hand tighten. (21mm & 21mm box end, hand tight.) — I didn't remove this bolt.

23. Lower the right side of the axle until the spring is free from the upper mount, or until the lower suspension arm contacts the axle bracket.— I was able to free the spring without interference from the lower suspension arm, but you might have trouble if you have a lift kit.
View attachment 50176

24. If necessary, remove right lower suspension arm mounting nuts and bolts from the frame. (21mm & 21mm box end, 130 ft-lbs.) — The spring was already free, so I didn't have to do this.

25. If necessary, lower the right side of the axle further until the spring is free from the upper mount. — I didn't have to do this, but you might have to if you have a lift kit.

26. Remove the right coil spring retainer clip (13mm, 16 ft-lbs.) and remove the spring. Rotation of the spring and prying down slightly on the axle will aid in removal. — My Jeep doesn't have a spring retainer clip. Pulling out the right spring is easier than the left spring. I just slid it right out.
View attachment 50177

27. Return the right side of the axle to the starting position and support with jack stands.
View attachment 50184

28. Pull the right jounce bumper out of the bump stop cup. — Only if you plan to replace it.
View attachment 50178

29. Remove the bump stop cup. (15mm, ?? ft-lbs.) — I couldn't find a torque spec for this bolt.
View attachment 50179

30. Remove the right upper spring isolator. Use a screwdriver to pry the isolator free. — Only if you plan to replace the isolator.
View attachment 50180

31. Install the new spring isolator in the top spring mount and seat it fully in the spring mount.
View attachment 50182

32. Reinstall the bump stop cup. (15mm, ?? ft-lbs.) — I couldn't find a torque spec for this bolt so I just tightened it about as much as it was when I found it.
View attachment 50183

33. If necessary, reinstall the right lower suspension arm mounting nuts and bolts and hand tighten. (21mm & 21mm box end, hand tight.) — I didn't have to remove this bolt.

34. Measure the old spring lengths and the new spring lengths. — The moment of truth. The old springs were a little more than 1/4" shorter than the new springs.
View attachment 50187 View attachment 50186 View attachment 50185

THIS IS KILLER!! thank you for sharing!

 

[Miko1]

Awesome writeup. Thanks for all the info. One question? should I get a front end alignment after all the springs are replaced.

 

[SSTJ]

Awesome writeup. Thanks for all the info. One question? should I get a front end alignment after all the springs are replaced.

Yup, if your new springs put you at a different height (even just a tad), you'll need to make some adjustments. But scroll up in this thread and you'll see some links to another very helpful post on this forum about how to DIY.

 

[Miko1]

Yup, if your new springs put you at a different height (even just a tad), you'll need to make some adjustments. But scroll up in this thread and you'll see some links to another very helpful post on this forum about how to DIY.

Thank you kindly

 

[Fulton_Hogan]

Thank you for doing this walk-through, @fuse. I just did my springs with your work as a guide. I had it on my phone so if I had a question (confirming the location of some component, or torque specifications) I could walk over to the workbench, find the answer and then go back to turning wrenches.

For follow-on readers, I performed a coil swap from the original springs to Moog 3226/3227s. I didn't undo any track bar connections; only the lower bolts on both sway bars as well as the bottom shock bolts. I did use a spring compressor to get the right front springs in and out, but did not need to use it again. I was able to make enough clearance using hand or foot strength to press down on the hubs and then lifted (or slid) the springs over their perches.

I had never performed this task, and @fuse did a great job explaining it all and what to expect. I took my time and cleaned and sprayed coverage paint while I was in there. Everyone's rust situation is different, so I can't promise your job will be as easy; however, this thread really helped make my experience less of a headache.