Curious, would this be enough to cause a misfire? I ask because I've been chasing a misfire gremlin for about a year and a half now (you may have seen some of my threads).
Strange sound, timing chain?
- Thread starter Mercury
- Start date
JKP
TJ Addict
It's not long enough to use to press the new one on without stripping out the threads in the crank.
JKP
TJ Addict
It's 2 pieces of metal joined together by rubber. Rubber deteriorates and there's play between the metal. All you need is a new pulley and seal.
JKP
TJ Addict
JKP
TJ Addict
Cool, found one, not a bad price, either. That and a fel-pro gasket kit are on their way!
Ohhhh, so I just need a bolt that's the same as the hub bolt but longer so I can screw it deeper into the crank before it meets the pulley. That with the washer "presses" (or pulls) the balancer into place, then I remove the bolt and swap it with the actual hub bolt.
You can rent the appropriate tools at a local auto parts store.
Definitely going to grab the puller and whatever else the videos recommend.
While I have the timing cover off replacing that gasket is there anything I need to look for to see if I need to change the gears/chain? I saw something about making sure some markings are lined up (I'm still researching), but is there anything else I should I keep an eye out for?
A seal is pressed into the timing chain cover opening which seals the harmonic balancer hub so oil doesn't leak out while the crankshaft and harmonic balancer are spinning. Be careful when removing the seal from the timing chain cover so you do not damage the recessed area that the seal is pressed into.
You can either use the proper tool to press the seal into the recessed area of the timing chain cover OR use a ball pean hammer to gently tap the new seal into the recessed area of the timing chain cover.
You can either use the proper tool to press the seal into the recessed area of the timing chain cover OR use a ball pean hammer to gently tap the new seal into the recessed area of the timing chain cover.
Look at the chain, it should be tight all the way around the gears. If not replace. Do not use a Cloyes brand, or NAPA replacement parts.
I swapped out my crank pulley when I swapped out my timing chain with a Melling set. My odometer has around 230k and the PO claimed the engine was rebuilt at some point.
Along with the timing chain, pulley, gaskets, I decided to preemptively replace my water pump...which is iffy since most new parts are worse than the originals...I used a Napa, most folks will recommend Mopar. I also swapped out my fan clutch and lower radiator hose.
You might also consider a belt and idler and tension pulleys.
Also, since you'll be draining the radiator...get some Thermocure in there for a couple of days and you'll get a good cooling system flush out of all of this.
If you have AC you're going to want to find a shop that can drain the system. I replaced my receiver dryer and put an o-ring kit on all my 20 year old fittings.
-Mac
Along with the timing chain, pulley, gaskets, I decided to preemptively replace my water pump...which is iffy since most new parts are worse than the originals...I used a Napa, most folks will recommend Mopar. I also swapped out my fan clutch and lower radiator hose.
You might also consider a belt and idler and tension pulleys.
Also, since you'll be draining the radiator...get some Thermocure in there for a couple of days and you'll get a good cooling system flush out of all of this.
If you have AC you're going to want to find a shop that can drain the system. I replaced my receiver dryer and put an o-ring kit on all my 20 year old fittings.
-Mac
Got it. The cover would be off at this point, I take it, so shouldn't be hard. Would this be part of a puller kit or would this be a different tool?
Got it. Mac suggested the Melling so I'll likely go with that, then.
I do think my idler pulley is squeaking. I don't think I've ever replaced the fan clutch, and I bet the water pump is probably on its last legs.
I actually have a bottle of Thermocure I've been sitting on for just such an occasion
Shoot, so I do have to drain the AC to do this? I was hoping I could just wiggle it out of the way somehow.
Do you recommend the Melling kit?
You pretty much need a puller on the crank pulley...you might be able to sneak one between the bolt and the condenser...but you also run the risk of a puncture.
You might be able to unbolt the entire grill and swing things out of the way...but personally I'd get it drained while the Jeep is driving.
Most shops will do it for free since they're keeping your coolant.
Keep plastic bags, rubber bands, electrical tape handy and the second any of that AC stuff comes off seal off both ends asap.
Lot of folks talk about how sensitive AC stuff is... don't be scared. Use some common sense caution and just get it done.
-Mac
I'll definitely pull the radiator, it's not worth risking a puncture. I will do some redneck stuff, but within reason
I just need to rent the tool and see what I can make happen. If I can save having to refill the AC at the moment that's my preference, but I'll do what I need to do.
Have you had good performance with your new timing chain?
Awesome! Did you have to do anything crazy to get the puller in there with everything else still installed?
Zero issues and there's not that many parts I can say that about.
I suspect either my crank pulley is bad...or I didn't get it fully seated...I had zero belt issues for a year. We hit the historic Rubicon Trail a week or so ago and quickly cut a belt...down the length of the belt...very interesting break...one rib peeled off and then chunked off enough tails to start wacking things.
We put on my spare belt...did the same thing...and then ran it one rib down...and watched as it walked a rib over on the crank pulley.
-Mac
Oh wow, that's crazy! I wonder why it went so long without issue up until now. Just got knocked loose enough to throw it?
I really wonder if this has anything to do with the mysterious misfire I've been chasing for the past year and a half.
I chased a misfire for a year. Plugs, coil, spark plug wires, checked the harness. Turned out to be a bad crank position sensor.
-Mac