Stroker build video series

Mike_H

autos are better - WRWD508
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I found a collection of videos today from Haggerty that are very interesting. They are not complete, but what I've watched so far seem like they contain very good information. They are building a 4.6L stroker with factory parts. Getting everything from rock auto, so there is a little shilling for that, but not too bad. The dude has gone through how to calculate actual stroke and compression ratio too... And not one yoga pant wearing hot chick for clicks!

Hope you all enjoy it as much as I did.







 
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Are you planning the next phase of your build? Or just educating yourself?
 
You are building a stroker? 🤯
Eventually, I'd like to do something. For a while it was a stroker, then I thought it might be fun to do a hemi. I've rebuilt small engines (like lawn mowers and generators) but I've never done a car or truck engine. That has some appeal to me. I've also never done an engine swap in a car (again... Garden tractors would be my only experience). That also has appeal to me, though less so. I think I would enjoy it, but not sure I want to go through that much troubleshooting and expense. The stroker has always seemed to hit the sweet spot between effort, expense, and outcome. In other words, you get a decent bump in power, for not a ton of money, and it's easy to make "right" (easy being relative to a turbo or engine swap).

I also think I would like to do the stroker for the simple fact that I could get a donor engine and rebuild it, while I'm still driving the Jeep around. Once it's done, it's a simple matter of installing it over a weekend. Maybe a couple weeks of tuning and it's done.

50 more HP and 100 ft-lbs more torque would make that .69 OD that is going in much more bearable!

This thread was really just about the fact that the videos exist in a useful format though.
 
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Eventually, I'd like to do something. For a while it was a stroker, then I thought it might be fun to do a hemi. I've rebuilt small engines (like lawn mowers and generators) but I've never done a car or truck engine. That has some appeal to me. I've also never done an engine swap in a car (again... Garden tractors would be my only experience). That also has appeal to me, though less so. I think I would enjoy it, but not sure I want to go through that much troubleshooting and expense. The stroker has always seemed to hit the sweet spot between effort, expense, and outcome. In other words, you get a decent bump in power, for not a ton of money, and it's easy to make "right" (easy being relative to a turbo or engine swap).

I also think I would like to do the stroker for the simple fact that I could get a donor engine and rebuild it, while I'm still driving the Jeep around. Once it's done, it's a simple matter of installing it over a weekend. Maybe a couple weeks of tuning and it's done.

50 more HP and 100 ft-lbs more torque would make that .69 OD that is going in much more bearable!

This thread was really just about the fact that the videos exist in a useful format though.
I too have been bitten by the stroker bug for some of the same reasons. I like the idea of keeping an inline 4.0 under the hood. Our Jeeps are getting closer to "classic" status and there are very few inline 6-cyl motors being made these days. In my mind, keeping the AMC roots under the hood adds to the nostalgia.
 
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I too have been bitten by the stroker bug for some of the same reasons. I like the idea of keep an inline 4.0 under the hood. Our Jeeps are getting closer to "classic" status and there are very few inline motor being made these days. In my mind, keeping the AMC roots under the hood adds to the nostalgia.
The one thing I worry about with a stroker is reliability. I've seen some that are, relatively few, and many that aren't. I know it has everything to do with the build and tune, but it's hard to separate the good from the bad. The other issue I have is pulling a perfectly good engine. I'd like to have more power, but can't honestly say I've ever needed it. I drive and wheel like I am, a Grandpa! ;)
 
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The one thing I worry about with a stroker is reliability. I've seen some that are, relatively few, and many that aren't. I know it has everything to do with the build and tune, but it's hard to separate the good from the bad. The other issue I have is pulling a perfectly good engine. I'd like to have more power, but can't honestly say I've ever needed it. I drive and wheel like I am, a Grandpa! ;)
I share the same driving habits, so I get where you're coming from. For me it goes back to more of a want than a need. Do I really need more power? Nah. Do I want more power? ABSOLUTELY.

You bring up a good point though with the reliability issue. That's a fine line to walk when planning the build.
 
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The one thing I worry about with a stroker is reliability. I've seen some that are, relatively few, and many that aren't. I know it has everything to do with the build and tune, but it's hard to separate the good from the bad. The other issue I have is pulling a perfectly good engine. I'd like to have more power, but can't honestly say I've ever needed it. I drive and wheel like I am, a Grandpa! ;)
I think a big part of that is the compression ratio and tune. I have a buddy that is running a 4.6 in a Cherokee and the rest of that jeep fell apart WAY before he had any engine issues. Its a mild build and runs on 87 octane. I think a lot of the unreliability claims (based on zero research) comes from people pushing the C.R. and wanting to run high lifts and duration on the cam to make more power. I just want a nice, reliable engine that doesn't struggle to push a double brick through the air 70-75 mph and have a little left over to climb a hill or pass someone.

Edit: Another thought I had is aftermarket parts vs factory. The original way to build a stroker was to do as they are doing in the video series. Use parts from a 4.2l and a 4.0L to make one engine. Those are ALL factory parts. You start throwing aftermarket "power adder" parts into the mix, without the HUGE R&D and Testing budgets of an OEM (or tier 1 supplier) and you start walking down a path that leads you to an island. You better do your homework...cuz you can't always trust the parts supplier.
 
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I just want a nice, reliable engine that doesn't struggle to push a double brick through the air 70-75 mph and have a little left over to climb a hill or pass someone.
Truthfully, I've never had a problem with the power. Also, regardless of how much power I'd add to the 4.0, I'd still have a transmission that drops nearly 800 RPMs when it switches to OD. The 42RLEs I've had have been reliable, but the .69 OD is pathetic from a power robber perspective!
 
I appreciate him making vids. They being said, he didn't know what he was talking about with the compression ratio and it seems like he got schooled via the comments on his YouTube video. He also made no mention about squish (except using the term incorrectly reference bearing clearance?) which concerns me about his basic knowledge. And sanding main caps to adjust clearance? I'm not sure what machine shop he's using but I won't be going there. Also at least on '98 models, you don't machine the flywheel at it's domed from the factory. I'm guessing it's the same for all 4.0s.

I know that sounds like a lot of hate and I don't intend it as such. There's just a lot in those vids I don't like.
 
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I appreciate him making vids. They being said, he didn't know what he was talking about with the compression ratio and it seems like he got schooled via the comments on his YouTube video. He also made no mention about squish (except using the term incorrectly reference bearing clearance?) which concerns me about his basic knowledge. And sanding main caps to adjust clearance? I'm not sure what machine shop he's using but I won't be going there. Also at least on '98 models, you don't machine the flywheel at it's domed from the factory. I'm guessing it's the same for all 4.0s.

I know that sounds like a lot of hate and I don't intend it as such. There's just a lot in those vids I don't like.
I picked up on the machining of the flywheel too. I did notice that in all his calculations about CR, he got mixed up a bit and I think they fixed it in editing (the graphics on the side). He also didn't mention quench...which is pretty important from other stuff I've read.

In the end, its a video designed to get clicks, likes, and move people to Haggerty's site. Its not going to be a super technical how to guide. That stuff doesn't get the likes (because it goes over most people's head). The dude is a "TV personality." I just thought it was a better take on building a stroker than I've seen in video form. I appreciate the comments from you.
 
I think that is spot on and I agree. Also squish is another term for quench which is what I was saying he didn't mention except in reference to bearing clearance which made me scratch my head. I completely agree that's an important angle and I honestly just don't think he's aware of it. Still happy for the videos to be out there though and will watch the rest when he posts them 👍
 
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The dude is a "TV personality."
Check out the hands on the “dude” and compare them to yours.
Besides, isn’t the Hagerty shop just up the road from you in Traverse City? Maybe you could go up and give him a few pointers and teach him a thing or three. Better yet, I think his shop is even closer, where he builds race cars that go fast.
 
Check out the hands on the “dude” and compare them to yours.
Besides, isn’t the Hagerty shop just up the road from you in Traverse City? Maybe you could go up and give him a few pointers and teach him a thing or three. Better yet, I think his shop is even closer, where he builds race cars that go fast.
Um...Ok?
 
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Anyone serious about building a striker should do some reading and calculations on DCR (dynamic compression ratio). This is a more meaningful compression ratio consideration as it takes the camshaft timing (duration, overlap and valve openings) into the calculation. The DCR will zero you in on your fuel octane requirements which in turn will make the build more dependable as someone expressed concern about. ( provided you don’t push the limits trying to get the last itty bitty bit of HP)
 
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