Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Stutter / Misfire - No Engine Codes, Running Out of Culprits

LngJeep

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Hi everyone, I held off as long as possible to post by using all the great resources but am now looking for those with more experience insights. This is a long one so hang in there!

Background: 2006 LJR, 6MT, ~119k. I purchased it in Sept. 2023 and have been slowly working through all the maintenance and refresh items. I'm not 100% sure when the issue started. I don't recall hearing it when first purchased. The first time I noticed was in November while idling next to a brick building waiting to plug in for inspection. That prompted me to spend time outside of the Jeep and it's much easier to notice/hear.

Symptoms: There's an intermittent misfire/stutter noise from the exhaust. It's not noticeable during cold start but I'm fairly certain that's because the higher RPMs mask it. Via scan tool, when it stutters there's a definitive dip in RPM (15-30) that causes a slight vibration and the noise. It's intermittent in that it could go 10-20 seconds or it could do it almost constantly for 10-20 seconds at a time. It doesn’t really introduce any drivability issues. It’s not noticeable other than idle (Though based on the scan tool I believe it still has the RPM variation).


I'm going to try and break what I've done and what I think I have left by the general vehicle system so they're not in chronological order per se. I also did these more or less 1 at a time to be sure to not introduce multiple variables.



Video on Youtube. Ignore the knocking sound in the beginning (that’s my son smashing something with a hammer). Easiest to hear from :20 to :27. Again, it’s a chuffing type sound



Ignition:
  • New spark plugs – tried both the Autolite and Champion recommended here (gapped properly) – no change
  • Coil pack – replaced with Viper style – no change
  • Ran Seafoam – no change
  • Battery is ~8 months old
Fuel:
  • Pressure tested system and all in spec. Didn’t see any major fluctuations during idle
  • Injectors – ohm tested originals and were OK. Replaced anyway with rebuilt 4 hole - no change. Noid light tested and all appear to be getting the proper signal – no change
  • Ran fuel treatment for a tank – no change
Vacuum systems/leaks:
  • I spent a quite a bit of time smoking everything and didn’t find any vacuum leaks. The one place I got smoke was around the throttle body butterfly (Where it spins). I followed the process for removing and replacing the o-rings. That made a significant change with only a slight leak when building full smoke pressure on the intake side of the butterfly and butterfly closed. No change to symptoms
  • I found my vacuum reservoir was somewhat collapsed and cracked. Oddly enough all my HVAC controls worked. I still went ahead and replaced the vacuum reservoir
  • PCV – I never had any smoke leaks via test. However, I could hear a high velocity air noise from it. I replaced the line on the rear of the valve since it was partially collapsed – no change. I also swapped in a new replacement gasket and PCV elbow. Same noise. I’m assuming that’s just the air moving through the restricted orifice. collapsed under vacuum
Sensors:

  • IAC –
    • Cleaned via Jerry’s process – no change
    • OEM replacement – no change
  • TPS –
    • OEM replacement – no change
  • MAP –
    • cleaned only – no change
Exhaust : Replaced after purchase to comply with state (added muffler)

  • O2 sensors – replaced all 4 with NGK recommended on the O2 sensor thread – no change
  • I pressure tested the exhaust system (vacuum blowing into exhaust) and soapy water
  • Reasonable leak at final bend at rear axle (slip fit connection). Tried new clamp but no luck. Not sure if this would have an impact?
  • Small leak where single/downstream cat connects
  • Small leak at exhaust manifold and pre cats connections. I tried to snug up these connections but couldn't eliminate it
Wiring:

  • I’ve been cleaning up/replacing wire insulation. I haven’t found anything that looks to be an issue
  • I read about the wiring that runs across the back of the engine. It looks OK but in that it’s not worn through the tape/loom. I can pull it though and double check
Engine:

  • Compressions Test – good (all right at 180)
  • Leak down test – good. Some very light from the valve cover via oil fill cap. Some very light from the exhaust with hear to it and complete quiet. Gauges read OK for leak down. I had read that a sticking exhaust valve could cause the chuffing sound but based on the leak down, all good. Or if it’s intermittent could it still be a cause?

General troubleshooting via scan tool:

I’ve tried to spend a bunch of time to see what I can monitor that would help troubleshoot the problem. I attached some pictures showing the RPM dips and some other readouts. What I’ve seen/paid attention to:

  • RPM – visible drop in RPM when the stutter occurs
  • O2 voltage – from what I can research and my limited knowledge they appear to be behaving as they should. I’ve really only been paying attention to the upstream sensors
  • MAP – I’ve been looking to see if this has strange signals since it’s a sensor I haven’t replaced it. When I get a BAD stutter, the MAP signal does change
  • When a major stutter occurs photos show examples):
    • MAP will increase (for example 40 to 42-43)
    • O2 voltage changes (seemingly reacting to the issue)?
    • The timing advance changes (expected, right?)

Based on the above, this is where I’m headed next but really where I’m looking for advice:

  • Address the exhaust manifold to pre-cat leak – Since I can’t snug up the bolts anymore, I’m going to replace the pre-cats (just seems worth it since I’d need to pull them anyways)
  • MAP – OEM is expensive ($150) so I’ve been holding off
    • Based on the symptoms, should this be replaced?
    • Anything else I can troubleshoot to confirm if it’s good or bad?
    • It’s odd to me that the MAP would fluctuate during the larger stutter/misfire events. Is it a cause or effect?
    • Would the MAP see impacts of something post-combustion (say leaky exhaust causing the O2 sensors to have false reading which would then adjust the IAC, which would then change the pressure the MAP would read? I wouldn’t think a change in fuel from an O2 sensor reading would impact the MAP, right?
  • IAC – Is there any additional troubleshooting I can do? Maybe there’s a bad signal or shorted wire?
  • Cam or crank sensor? Any diagnostics that can be done?
  • Grounds – I’ve done a cursory inspection but haven’t pulled and cleaned them
  • If all else fails above, a step I would take is to send the computer to WranglerFix for diagnostics. I have no other issues so this would surprise me as the issue
I have a Jamboree coming up at the beginning of August so I’m really hoping to get it sorted before then. That being said, it’s drivable so I can likely run it this way if needed. I'm also planning the full cooling system cleanout/rebuild and suspension refresh as I'm sorting this out.

Any help, advice, or other insights are hugely appreciated!

Misfire, MAP - RPM - O2.PNG


Misfire - RPM - trim - O2V.PNG
 
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I’d try a @Wranglerfix ecm…my pcm acted up and Mark’s PCM fixed it when I was trying to fix a transmission issue.

I had a ton of misfires reading on my aeroforce OBD 2 gauge (that I found online; it only works for the 05/06 models). Keep in mind that I read those misfires without 0300 codes being reported from the PCM. You can have a sizable amount of misfires that won’t pop a CEL if there aren’t enough misfires in x amount of time. I only know this from experience. My misfire issues were typically only in idle or near idle while the engine was hot. It wasn’t a heat soak issue with the fuel like I thought.

I’d rather confirm it is or isn’t the ECM now rather than find out it’s the issue during the trip or after you cancel. Just my $.02
 
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Here’s some of the misfires I’d see without popping a code.

The device only reports cylinders 1-4 because it was provided for the Neon SRT folks (per AF’s response to my inquiry).

IMG_3470.jpeg
IMG_3469.jpeg
 
Someone else replaced their fuel injector connectors and it solved a random misfire. Despite the noid lights showing ok, why not give that a shot, i imagine they arnt too expensive and would add some peace of mind.
 
Thanks for the replies I’ll check into both.

@MikeE024, thanks for the screenshots and extra info. Definitely a great point and ruling that out would be a major step. I’ll give them a call tomorrow for a few questions. The diagnostic service looks like a good option. Just will put me without the Jeep for a few weeks but that will only hold up the coolant flush process. I can still work on the suspension, oil pan, and probably the pre cats.
 
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Hi all, had a bit of a hiatus while the Jeep was apart for new parts: suspension, oil pan, new cats, cooling system. Here’s what I’ve done since the last post and I’m still dealing with the same issue:

  • Wrangler fix PCM- Mark noticed some issues when I sent mine in so I went for a new one. No dice for my main issue on my Jeep
  • New cats
  • New MAP sensor
  • New Mopar crank sensor
  • Swapped in Crown OPDA (still had original). I adjusted to near 0 and then did the sync/relearn for both the Crown sensor and my Mopar. No changes with either setup
I’m pretty stumped. I’m going to go through grounds again and jiggle wires to see if I can get a change. I’m headed to Coal Mountain Jamboree in a couple of weeks so maybe I’ll get someone with some other ideas after seeing it in person.

Some other thoughts/questions:

  • My OPDA had some wear which matched the cam. Looking at other threads, it’s in the ‘eh, should be fine’ territory. Is there anyway to determine if this could be contributing to the issue?
  • My PCV valve (back of cover) hisses pretty loudly. I’ve swapped it back and forth with a Dorman to troubleshoot but it’s functioning as designed I think - restricted hole throttles vacuum. It still seems odd it’s that loud. Anyone else’s audible?
 
That O2S1 Bank 2 volt dropping out to virtually 0 volts (stuck lean) screams a chafed signal wire to ground. Especially being that Bank 1 seems to function perfectly fine, it runs fine in open loop, and it's intermittent.

If you ever see it go lean like that again (0 volts), graph both upstream O2's at the same time, floor it in WOT mode and see if you can drive the signal rich.
 
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My LJ had similar symptoms when i purchased it a few years ago. The stutter was solidly noticeable. It was interesting to watch live stream of sensor data via the torque app.
Since acquiring the LJ, most of the normal items have been done: fluid and filter changes, new spark plugs, o2 sensors, etc.
For mine, I think the most noticeable improvement came from two things: used jeepcables to replace all the main cables, and ran startron fuel system cleaner: https://www.amazon.ca/Atlas-Enzyme-Treatment-Concentrated-Formula/dp/B004A7J4SI/?tag=tjforum-20

I'd have to sit idling, listening carefully, to catch a stutter or miss now. For me, it seems the cause was a few items together. Having said that, I'm gonna pay more attention today......
Ymmv, etc. Good luck.
Tim
 
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@ItchyDong Thanks for that. I’ll do some more work with the scanner and also do some 2x checking and tracing for the upstream 02 sensors.

@TimV Thanks and do you have any other details on the wiring you replaced? For example, was it grounds and main power wires? Did you source them from used rigs or purchase elsewhere? Definitely let me know how yours is doing. I haven’t found any others with the same issue so I’m all ears!
 
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Happy to help if I'm able. The main cables are all replaced: battery to ground, pdc, starter and alternator, with extra ground wires to the frame and body. My wife's JK was particularly plagued with gremlins. Over time I became of the mind that poor power distribution and grounding were a culprit. In that case, it was indeed something of a silver bullet.
You may get so lucky. I let the credit card loose at jeepcables.com
Do a search on here about the topic. Many threads and several vendors if you choose that route.

Tim
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator