Suggestions for Replacement Steering Kit for Stock LJ

CMD Z

CMD Z

Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2019
Messages
47
Location
West
Goals
- Replace the worn out tie rod ends and whatever the ends are called on the drag link (sockets?)
- Keep the LJ near stock (no drilling, cutting, new wheels, etc.)
- Should still be a DIY project for a kinda-newbie, since that's why I went with the LJ (i.e. no fabricating or exotic tools necessary)
- Willing to spend money on parts, especially ones that are serviceable and heavier(?) duty

What I've Found Out So Far
Looks like I can replace the tie rod ends and the inner socket (drag link to pitman arm), but the socket on the other side of the drag link doesn't look like it is replaceable (if it is, then you can skip the rest and just point me to instructions for this). Since this is a wear item, it would be great if the new equipment was more serviceable.

In researching replacement parts, I found a couple of "steering kits" that include all new tie rod and drag link assemblies. This seems like it would make the installation go easier and then all of the components would be refreshed.

However, anything "heavy duty" or with replaceable ends seemed to require drilling out the tapered receiver on the knuckles, is intended for lifted applications (Currie, Rugged Ridge), or weren't compatible with stock wheels (Rugged Ridge).

Looking at OEM-style replacement kits (usually Crown), the tire-side of the drag link is not replaceable (RT Offroad) and all the reviews complain about bad zerk fittings (Crown) and cheap rubber boots/early wear (again, Crown). [Note: The Crown hardware is often labeled "heavy duty", but I can't find anything in the descriptions to indicate that they are any thicker or more serviceable than OEM]

What To Do?
- Just get the Crown and expect to replace it regularly?
- Go with a make-your-own-kit using Moog tie rod ends and a replacement drag link?
- Get helpful suggestions for previously undiscovered options from the friendly folks on the WranglerTJForum?

I guess I'm starting out with the last item. Thanks in advance.

[Did you make it to the end of this post? Holy Carp! Another obsessive! Glad to meet 'cha!]
 
Search for the zj v8 steering upgrade. The draglink is the same, but it has a better tie rod and a bit stronger components and it all bolts right in
 
Thanks for "steering" me to that thread :D

Looks like the options are Moog (build your own kit/paint), Crown (all in one) and Duralast (build your own kit). Let's start a flame war... which manufacturer has the best quality? [takes cover]
 
Here's a picture I put together that identifies the Moog parts needed for a ZJ conversion. The stock drag link part number isn't listed, but is moog-ds1430. Also, you can use any steering damper, if needed, but I don't over spend there.

https://imgur.com/BWCKpFE

Here's what it looks like on my '99

1999 TJ Front Suspension View Edited.jpg
 
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Thanks to all!

Ordered Moog parts and POR-15 in Chassis Black.

Anything I should put on the threads of the adjusting sleeves? Or just go nekkid?
 
The "regular" silver/grey stuff starts to get glumpy (if that's a word) after a while. I've found it less than desirable for use on threads that get adjusted much. I use it for everything that is never needed to adjust.
For the threads on the adjuster sleeves I use the copper antiseize. And after everything is set I spray a bit of fluid film over the exposed parts to keep rust away from the inside and outside of the threaded parts. Makes eventual replacement a whole lot easier.
 
I installed ZJ set up and like it. I suggest you check your ball joints at the same time. I don't know anything about your rig, but those need to be replaced with predictable regularity based upon age, mileage and often application. IMHO, if one BJ shows any slop, replace all four and do your wheel seals at the same time. I take a scorched earth approach to maintenance.
 
OK. Parts acquired and painted...

Suggestions for how to set the length of each assembly? When going stock-to-stock, I've seen people count the number of turns for each rod end. Not sure if that applies with this beefier set up.

I'll get an alignment when I'm done, but it would be great to get it as close to correct as possible.
 
Just measure distance from center to center of the joint stems. After you have it all back and installed and torqued a quick alignment check is all you need. Get the toe in set to 1/8" and then center your steering wheel. You want the steering wheel centered dead nutz. Otherwise it will feel odd. You can make small adjustments to the drag link when you are all done. Take a quick test drive, adjust the drag link, test drive, drag link until you get it set. The toe needs to be on before you do all of this otherwise it may throw the drag link off a bit. Super easy. Use plenty of antiseize on all threads.
 
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