Supplements to an engine swap

Philthy

Philthy

Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2019
Messages
38
Location
Chicago
For those who have done V8 swaps, or other higher power/torque engines, what is the rated HP/TQ of your engine, and did you do any other driveline upgrades?

My thinking is, if I have to do a swap, I don't really want to need to replace much of the driveline. How high in power and torque would you say a (relatively) stock driveline can handle on an 02 X? (Dana 35 rear, I believe, with 33"s and 4.56 gears)

My other thought is, if I'm gonna go big with power, I might as well start a new project and build one from the frame up, with 1 Ton axles and a rust free (as much as possible) frame and tub.
 
Be sure to check out the following sites:
https://www.novak-adapt.com/https://www.advanceadapters.com/
Both sites have a lot of information about common engine, transmission, and transfer case swaps.

For example, you might want to read up on how strong your transmission is. Assuming you have the NV3550, you may be okay, but it will depend upon what motor you put behind it.

If you want a swap with less work, consider a 4.6/4.7 stroker, supercharged 4.0, or even a supercharged 4.6 stroker
 
I have an 05 LJ rubicon and am in the process of doing a 5.3 Gen 5 chevy V-8 w/6l80 auto tranny, 355hp/383 tq. I believe. Since I do moderate off roading, I chose to up grade both axles. Having an issue where I wheel is not an option due to the rescue costs involved. I believe if you are going to do this, you need to identify a mission profile for your jeep and build accordingly. Accept the fact that this is no time to skimp on upgrades because it will come back to haunt you at the most inconvenient time. Good luck with your build.
 
I have a 5.3 in mine. I am using a 4l60E trans, Adams driveshafts, NP231 with a SYE.

Running Dana 35/30 with 33's and 4.56.

I am picking up a Dana 44 rear tomorrow and start building that. Will sell off the Dana 35 when complete.

All depends on how much you beat it. I have way too much time into mine to kill it. I will off-road it some and street it. Will never mud it heavy or submerge it. I will buy a beater for that:)

Dana 35 been holding fine for 600+ miles. I do get on it on the street, too hard not too.......:)

Build it right and maintain it. Don't buy crap parts. Labor is $$$$ too!
 
My be of no help. The Cummins turbo diesel swap was designed from the start to be Jeep drivetrain friendly. You get the fuel efficiency bump without a lot of the drivetrain wanting to blow up. They have flashed the computer just for this reason. I don't know if your heart is set on only a V8, but for a somewhat similar cost you get a lot easier (in theory at least) upgrade while able to feel pretty safe nothing is going to grenade when you step on the skinny pedal. Plus a warentee. And more and more places are designing the install to get easier and easier.
 
Moto Mike said:
I have an 05 LJ rubicon and am in the process of doing a 5.3 Gen 5 chevy V-8 w/6l80 auto tranny, 355hp/383 tq. I believe. Since I do moderate off roading, I chose to up grade both axles. Having an issue where I wheel is not an option due to the rescue costs involved. I believe if you are going to do this, you need to identify a mission profile for your jeep and build accordingly. Accept the fact that this is no time to skimp on upgrades because it will come back to haunt you at the most inconvenient time. Good luck with your build.
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What did you do for a transfer case?...I have an (05 TJ Rubi) and doing a 6.2L w/6l80 and cannot find an adaptor kit to work with the Rubicon 241OR transfer case - trans output 32 spline male and T.C. input is 23 female...novak doesn't make one?
 
Jachatz said:
What did you do for a transfer case?...I have an (05 TJ Rubi) and doing a 6.2L w/6l80 and cannot find an adaptor kit to work with the Rubicon 241OR transfer case - trans output 32 spline male and T.C. input is 23 female...novak doesn't make one?
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Did you call them? Hard to believe no one is making an adapter to mate the 6L80E to a 241.


Have you given Advanced Adapters a call?
 
BryantJT said:
I see the upgraded driveline question a lot. A higher power engine doesn't automagically break your axles, it's how you drive that will break stuff.
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This is a very true statement. I have a complete custom drivetrain in mine. Dodge magnum V-8 5.2 at the time, 44RE transmission, STaK's 3 speed transfer case, Ford HP44 front axle & a TeraFlex CRD 60 rear axle.

I've broken 2 ring gears in my rear axle. So just because you have 1 ton axels doesn't mean you can't break them.
 
I ended up going to AA and getting a new transfer case. Part of the problem with my Gen 5 swap was that the after market was/is a little slow catching up ie. no adapter to work with a 6l80e tranny. I was able to sell the stock one and recoup some of my costs.
 
Moto Mike said:
I ended up going to AA and getting a new transfer case. Part of the problem with my Gen 5 swap was that the after market was/is a little slow catching up ie. no adapter to work with a 6l80e tranny. I was able to sell the stock one and recoup some of my costs.
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Thanks, this prob the route i need to go.
 
Wildman said:
This is a very true statement.
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I would disagree. There is direct evidence that supports a bigger engine needing a bigger ring and pinion, bigger axles, or bigger trans components. It’s **one** of the requirements when choosing to run an engine that is bigger and makes more power/torque.

If this was untrue, why did the engineers, “upgrade,” the rear axle shafts and bearings when they increased the horsepower and torque numbers up to the tune of 700 and 800 horsepower Demon/Hellcat..?

Because more surface area (bigger axles and bearings) is needed to to handle the increased power and torque to the ground reliably. (Without breakage)

they touchon it a little at this link:
https://blog.dodge.com/vehicles/challenger-models/demon/bringing-up-the-rear/index.html

I am confident it is **one** of the reasons why the Jeep TJ Rubicon was developed to use F&R Dana 44 center sections only. It didnt need the tubes and outers due to vehicle weight. It was the 4:1 trans case that made it a requirement. This, being speculation.
 
Fouledplugs said:
I would disagree. There is direct evidence that supports a bigger engine needing a bigger ring and pinion, bigger axles, or bigger trans components. It’s **one** of the requirements when choosing to run an engine that is bigger and makes more power/torque.

If this was untrue, why did the engineers, “upgrade,” the rear axle shafts and bearings when they increased the horsepower and torque numbers up to the tune of 700 and 800 horsepower Demon/Hellcat..?

Because more surface area (bigger axles and bearings) is needed to to handle the increased power and torque to the ground reliably. (Without breakage)

I am confident it is **one** of the reasons why the Jeep TJ Rubicon was developed to use F&R Dana 44 center sections only. It didnt need the tubes and outers due to vehicle weight. It was the 4:1 trans case that made it a requirement. This, being speculation.
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Well I know more than one person who is running a Dodge magnum V-8 with a Dana 30 & Dana 35 axles. Heck Jeep use to sell a V-8 Jeep with a Dana 30 front axle. And if you are a lucky one and have a Dana 44 rear axle IMHO you could get by without having to upgrade your axles.

Now start adding low gearing in the transfer case & axles PLUS larger tires and yes I agree you need upgraded axles or at least axle shafts. If you are talking about a 500+ HP & TQ engine then yes I'll agree you need stronger axles.

When I said it was a true statement we were talking about swapping in a stock Dodge or Chevy V-8 that makes 300-350 HP. As you increase HP & TQ then yes you need stronger axles BUT that doesn't always mean you have to go to Dana 60's, 70's or 80's either.
 
Wildman said:
BUT that doesn't always mean you have to go to Dana 60's, 70's or 80's either.
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Agreed, something with close to 9 inches in diameter for the ring gear is a good start.

There is also the idea that you want a little more than the minimum required, building a little confidence/peace of mind in your parts. This, being my opinion.
 
Fouledplugs said:
There is also the idea that you want a little more than the minimum required, building a little confidence/peace of mind in your parts. This, being my opinion.
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Yes I can fully agree with you here. I always try to overbuild when and where I can. But as I said earlier just because you go big doesn't mean you still can't break it.... But that is part of the fun of this isn't it?
 
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