Swapping stock rear end to Rubicon rear end

@Kevin E did this.

It should bolt right on, the only thing you'll need is a different driveshaft I believe.
 
I don’t know anything about that, so I’ll wait until someone who has done the swap can chime in.
 
The top of the rubi Dana 44 has 2 holes, one is for the rear air line to actuate the factory locker (Note: if you are using factory lockers with an aftermarket pump the pressure to the lockers will need to be regulated to around 5-9 PSI otherwise you'll blow up the little air bladder in the locker)

The other threaded hole to the front of the axle (closer to the yoke) is where the factory "plunger" sensor sits. when running stock that plunger tells the jeep if the differential is locked or not and displays it on the dash.
 
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You will need a new front drive shaft but the rear should fit fine. Although you may need a conversion ujoint at the axle end I can't remember.

If you use the stock compressor they are easy to run as the pressure switch is built in. You just run power from a switch and a ground, the compressor handles the rest. I personally advise using some sort of led to tell you if the locker is on or not with the plunger. Again this is easy to do, if you have a switch with the light on the tip, just run the ground wire through the plunger.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
The wiring for mine was pulled, a rubber plug was RTV'd in its place. It has been like that for well over 5 years and sill holds. The compressors can be wired easily, power and ground and operated via a two-throw switch (a simple on/off switch). IIRC on the stock pump, it was the pink wire that was no longer used.
 
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You will need a new front drive shaft but the rear should fit fine. Although you may need a conversion ujoint at the axle end I can't remember.

If you use the stock compressor they are easy to run as the pressure switch is built in. You just run power from a switch and a ground, the compressor handles the rest. I personally advise using some sort of led to tell you if the locker is on or not with the plunger. Again this is easy to do, if you have a switch with the light on the tip, just run the ground wire through the plunger.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
You will need a new front drive shaft but the rear should fit fine. Although you may need a conversion ujoint at the axle end I can't remember.

If you use the stock compressor they are easy to run as the pressure switch is built in. You just run power from a switch and a ground, the compressor handles the rest. I personally advise using some sort of led to tell you if the locker is on or not with the plunger. Again this is easy to do, if you have a switch with the light on the tip, just run the ground wire through the plunger.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
what kind of new drive shaft one from a rubicon or custom
 
The top of the rubi Dana 44 has 2 holes, one is for the rear air line to actuate the factory locker (Note: if you are using factory lockers with an aftermarket pump the pressure to the lockers will need to be regulated to around 5-9 PSI otherwise you'll blow up the little air bladder in the locker)

The other threaded hole to the front of the axle (closer to the yoke) is where the factory "plunger" sensor sits. when running stock that plunger tells the jeep if the differential is locked or not and displays it on the dash.
in the first pic what is the wire connected for is that the indicator for the dash

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6547003F-9D3F-4C3F-A61B-6E88F1A89F06.jpeg
 
The wiring for mine was pulled, a rubber plug was RTV'd in its place. It has been like that for well over 5 years and sill holds. The compressors can be wired easily, power and ground and operated via a two-throw switch (a simple on/off switch). IIRC on the stock pump, it was the pink wire that was no longer used.
Can you give me more detail on how you did it if you not mind and have time thank much Appreciated
 
in the first pic what is the wire connected for is that the indicator for the dash

1st picture is the plunger "sensor" that tells the (i'm pretty sure) PCM that a locker is engaged. there is no need to worry about hooking it up unless you want to run lights to make sure you know when the factory lockers are actuated. I'd recommend you do that, mainly because the TJ lockers can be finicky of when they finally engage since they are such low pressure. I'm fairly certain the plunger just completes a circuit so wire it however you like. It should be 12v like most car applications but i myself am unsure.

2nd picture is the differential breather line. run that as high as you can so you dont get junk in it.

3rd picture is the air fitting for the axle. remember that the stock lockers use something in the range of 5-9 PSI.
 
The “plunger” is actually just a simple NO (normally open) switch. See wiring diagram. When the locker is engaged the switch contacts close and supply a path to ground.
F9FDCF03-BAB8-4F90-9665-947A9DA4133D.png
 
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The “plunger” is actually just a simple NO (normally open) switch. See wiring diagram. When the locker is engaged the switch contacts close and supply a path to ground.

I figured it was! Thanks for confirming my suspicion.
 
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what kind of new drive shaft one from a rubicon or custom
Probably custom as the rubi 241 tcase uses a different ujoint than your 231 case does, or you could go with another conversion joint. The best bet is probably to just have your stock shaft shortened and balanced.

I recommend using the plunger for a light as the stock lockers don't engage all the time without a bit of rolling back and forth. They also have a nasty tendency towards catastrophic failure if they arn't fully engaged before you really put the hammer down. The light let's you know when it's safe to get stupid.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
Can you give me more detail on how you did it if you not mind and have time thank much Appreciated

I bought my rubi axle 3rd hand, the guy before me was the one who plugged it. I have had the axle under my rig now for almost 4 years and no leaks.

As far as the wiring, I cant remember much on it as I now run ARBs. I just remember I had sealed the pink wire as it was never used.

One thing to note, the Rubicon has safety features built in that you won't have. Once you wire it, you will be able to switch the locker on at any time, 2 or 4 wheel drive, any speed. I ruined the one I had because I bumped the switch when doing about 40 mph.
 
Probably custom as the rubi 241 tcase uses a different ujoint than your 231 case does, or you could go with another conversion joint. The best bet is probably to just have your stock shaft shortened and balanced.

I recommend using the plunger for a light as the stock lockers don't engage all the time without a bit of rolling back and forth. They also have a nasty tendency towards catastrophic failure if they arn't fully engaged before you really put the hammer down. The light let's you know when it's safe to get stupid.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
It isn't so much as rolling back and forth as it is achieving differentiation between the two tires so the teeth on the locking clutch plates can line up and mesh. Easier to understand if you jack up one side, lock it, and then turn the tire to see how far it has to turn with the other side on the ground before it locks. If you do it several times, it could go from locking instantly to several inches of rotation at the tread before they engage.

Similar is true for unlocking. There has to be enough differentiation side to side to remove any load from the clutch in order for them to move apart and unlock.
 
Yep, that's exactly what you are trying to accomplish, is to rotate the tires at different speeds to help the locker line up. I generally do it by rocking the jeep back and forth gently with the wheels turned. Seems to get the job done.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
Yep, that's exactly what you are trying to accomplish, is to rotate the tires at different speeds to help the locker line up. I generally do it by rocking the jeep back and forth gently with the wheels turned. Seems to get the job done.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
The important distinction is that you have to have the tires turned which was not mentioned the first time around, just the rolling back and forth. If you roll it back and forth with the tires straight ahead, you might wear out the tires before it locks because there is no differentiation happening.
 
Unless of course you are on uneven ground, a typical situation for someone looking to engage lockers. But yes, I didn't specifically say to turn the wheels in my first post. I instead gave people the benefit of the doubt that they may have a basic understanding of what's going on inside a locker. After all I do and I'm just an IT guy.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
Unless of course you are on uneven ground, a typical situation for someone looking to engage lockers. But yes, I didn't specifically say to turn the wheels in my first post. I instead gave people the benefit of the doubt that they may have a basic understanding of what's going on inside a locker. After all I do and I'm just an IT guy.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
You give folks far too much credit. I've spent hours and hours on the trails listening to folks turn their front compressor off trying to turn. No matter how much I explain it, demonstrate it, next day, still doing it with the same stupid result.