Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

SYE on stock TJ?

Slaughterrt

Slaughterrt

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Apr 29, 2020
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Forked River, NJ
Rear output shaft on tcase, and rear driveshaft need to be replaced on the TJ. Considering doing a SYE install since I have to open up the tcase. I don’t plan on lifting the Jeep or doing any other suspension mods. I don’t use the TJ for off-roading, so it’s stock for the most part.
Looking at the Rough Trails SYE kit on Adam’s. So a couple questions I have are:
1) Will the HD 1310 rear driveshaft bolt up to the stock yoke on the Dana 44 rear or will I need some sort of adapters?
2) I don’t see any “real” benefits to doing this mod other than its better quality and comparable cost to getting the OEM output shaft and drive shaft. I don’t wheel the Jeep offroad, so I’m not concerned about height/clearance/approach angles. Are there any negatives to doing the SYE on a stock daily driver?

I’ll prob think of more.

Thanks
Rob
 
Your stock suspension and driveline is aligned for the OEM type driveshaft. With an SYE and DC driveshaft, you would probably need adjustable control arms to re-align the pinion.

Lots of people have removed a stock TC shaft to install an SYE. Put in a Wanted ad for a freebie TC shaft and driveshaft.

Edit: added "and driveshaft".
 
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Slaughterrt said:
Rear output shaft on tcase, and rear driveshaft need to be replaced on the TJ. Considering doing a SYE install since I have to open up the tcase. I don’t plan on lifting the Jeep or doing any other suspension mods. I don’t use the TJ for off-roading, so it’s stock for the most part.
Looking at the Rough Trails SYE kit on Adam’s. So a couple questions I have are:
1) Will the HD 1310 rear driveshaft bolt up to the stock yoke on the Dana 44 rear or will I need some sort of adapters?
2) I don’t see any “real” benefits to doing this mod other than its better quality and comparable cost to getting the OEM output shaft and drive shaft. I don’t wheel the Jeep offroad, so I’m not concerned about height/clearance/approach angles. Are there any negatives to doing the SYE on a stock daily driver?

I’ll prob think of more.

Thanks
Rob
Click to expand...

A long time since I’ve worked on a stock TJ, but I believe that if you go to the SYE and a double cardon shaft, you will likely also have to go with adjustable control arms to get the pinion angle correct. If you stick with a single u-joint shaft, than you should be fine - if you can find an SLE setup that supports it.

The SLE configuration is stronger than the slip yoke setup, but that will not make any difference at all in an otherwise stock rig.

Do the 44 axles use a 1310? I thought they used a 1330.
 
No point IMO to swapping in stock form. The stock rear driveshaft is perfectly adequate at stock height. The stock stuff has the reputation of being "weak," because people run it in configurations that are not ideal, like with tall lift. Tall lift puts too much stress on the stock components via their angles. At stock height everything is perfectly fine.

I'd buy new stock stuff and call it good.
 
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I would add 1 thing. If the cost of a SYE is the same as getting a new output shaft, and you are in need of a new Drive Shaft, then putting on an SYE is a viable option.

I would still get a stock style drive shaft, just measure to the new flange, and get that length. The angles should still be stock, and if it's a Dana 44 non Rubicon rear end, I believe it is 1310, so a Tom Woods rear stock style DS with 1310's at the length you measure with the new SYE.

It loses you nothing because you're saying the SYE and "Replacement Output" are the same $. It gains you nothing really, other than if you ever sell, it's one small thing you can say "ready for lift with SYE. It still loses you nothing.

Just my opinion.
 
cpwolf said:
I would add 1 thing. If the cost of a SYE is the same as getting a new output shaft, and you are in need of a new Drive Shaft, then this is a viable option.

I would still get a stock style drive shaft, just measure to the new flange, and get that length. The angles should still be stock, and if it's a Dana 44 non Rubicon rear end, I believe it is 1310, so a Tom Woods rear stock style DS with 1310's at the length you measure with the new SYE.

It loses you nothing because you're saying the SYE and "Replacement Output" are the same $. It gains you nothing really, other than if you ever sell, it's one small thing you can say "ready for lift with SYE. It still loses you nothing.

Just my opinion.
Click to expand...

An SYE plus adjustable control arms is comparable in cost to a new stock rear driveshaft?
 
jjvw said:
An SYE plus adjustable control arms is comparable in cost to a new stock rear driveshaft?
Click to expand...

Where did I say get adjustable control arms?

I specifically said "Leave It Stock Angles". Shortening the TC Output.....Does not necessitate getting a Double Cardan Drive Shaft....does it?

My post specifically said, get a STOCK style Drive Shaft. All he would replace is the broken output with an SYE"output" and put on a new drive shaft....STOCK style, and leave the arms as is, and bolt on the longer DS.
 
TheBoogieman said:
Governor Abbott had to raise prices to pay for the razor wire. ;)
Click to expand...

Apparently my eyes have been razor wired and I can't read.

I read "He needs to rebuild the TC, the Output shaft is toast" I read "An SYE is the same price basically as the new output shaft". I read "I need a new Drive Shaft."

1. Put on the SYE. Cost is neutral.
2. Get a Stock Style Tom Wood's DS at the new length, cost is Neutral.

There is zero need to replace any arms, and I didn't suggest it.
 
cpwolf said:
Where did I say get adjustable control arms?

I specifically said "Leave It Stock Angles". Shortening the TC Output.....Does not necessitate getting a Double Cardan Drive Shaft....does it?

My post specifically said, get a STOCK style Drive Shaft. All he would replace is the broken output with an SYE"output" and put on a new drive shaft....STOCK style, and leave the arms as is, and bolt on the longer DS.
Click to expand...

Then continue putting it all together. Does a slip joint work properly between the u joints on a single cardan drive shaft?

I don't know the answer. All I know is that Jeep could have done this, but didn't going back decades.
 
jjvw said:
Then continue putting it all together. Does a slip joint work properly between the u joints on a single cardan drive shaft?

I don't know the answer. All I know is that Jeep could have done this, but didn't going back decades.
Click to expand...

https://4xshaft.com/collections/jeep-cj-products/products/cj-rear-shaft-stock-type

You do realize there are more than 2 options for Drive Shafts, correct? If he has to replace his, he can get one that is stock style (as in Angles) and doesn't have a Slip Yoke on the other end.

Is that put together??

1712243623626.png
 
jjvw said:
Then continue putting it all together. Does a slip joint work properly between the u joints on a single cardan drive shaft?

I don't know the answer. All I know is that Jeep could have done this, but didn't going back decades.
Click to expand...

Except they did.....on CJ's for decades. Your posts are getting more confusing.
 
cpwolf said:
https://4xshaft.com/collections/jeep-cj-products/products/cj-rear-shaft-stock-type

You do realize there are more than 2 options for Drive Shafts, correct? If he has to replace his, he can get one that is stock style (as in Angles) and doesn't have a Slip Yoke on the other end.

Is that put together??

View attachment 515163
Click to expand...

I would need to ask @Shawn at Tom Wood's or someone similar, but I believe the TJ/YJ didn’t have this style because they were too short. CJs had shorter drivetrains that resulted in longer driveshafts. The driveshaft on my CJ with the 3-speed manual was similar in length to that of a TJ unlimited. My guess is a driveshaft needs to be 18-20” or so before it can have a slip joint in it. But I’d need an expert to chime in on that.

Both the older cast iron transmissions and the cast iron gear drive transfer cases were shorter.
 
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