Symptoms of rear track bar misalignment

MikekiM

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2000 TJ6, 60k miles. This is DD and I’m not going to do more with it than done outer beach and maybe some easy trails to camping locations.

PO did very little in mods and the few they did were half-baked.
Rough Country 2.5” lift (yes, it’s crazy rough) and that’s about it.

the rear axle is clearly aligned to the passenger side.

what are the symptoms of a misaligned rear axle?

trying to diagnose a bad wander under heavy breaking and really spongy pedal feel.

going in for an alignment and brake check tomorrow.
 
If misaligned only means shifted, as seems to be the case (as opposed to crooked relative to the vehicle), then the symptom is that your rear wheels don't track behind your front in a straight line - they are offset. Pedal feel is definitely not related, and I can't see why you would get much wander, either.

If misaligned means the axle isn't perpendicular to the bumper, but rather is crooked, then the pedal feel is still unrelated, but you could get all sorts of other nastiness from uneven tire wear to pulling to one side and so on
 
Control arm bushings can cause what you are experiencing-sway bar bushings can play in a tad.

One that old needs a brake flush, and everything checked-there are 34 bushings underneath these. They all are their to marry the control arms, sway bars and shocks to it.
 
Control arm bushings can cause what you are experiencing-sway bar bushings can play in a tad.

One that old needs a brake flush, and everything checked-there are 34 bushings underneath these. They all are their to marry the control arms, sway bars and shocks to it.

Is this a matter of determining if there hand-play in these connection points? How do I diagnose whether a bushing (or all of them) needs to be replaced? Is there a recommended order to replacing them (start with the control arms?) or do I just buy all 34 and have at it? I see aftermarket kits that range in price and material construction dramatically

Given this is my DD, I want to get it right. I would expect there is a big difference in ride characteristics between OE rubber and aftermarket polyurethane or the like.

If misaligned only means shifted, as seems to be the case (as opposed to crooked relative to the vehicle), then the symptom is that your rear wheels don't track behind your front in a straight line - they are offset. Pedal feel is definitely not related, and I can't see why you would get much wander, either.

If misaligned means the axle isn't perpendicular to the bumper, but rather is crooked, then the pedal feel is still unrelated, but you could get all sorts of other nastiness from uneven tire wear to pulling to one side and so on

For clarity... from a visual inspection only, I can see the rear axle is off left to right. Tires are new so can't see any irregular wear.. yet.

Road manners are generally fine given what you would expect for the miles and age. Maybe a little floaty at highway speeds. But once you jump on the brake its' manners change and it is a wrestling match to keep it in the lane. Feels like it could swap ends on my if I don't stay alert.
 
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Is this a matter of determining if there hand-play in these connection points? How do I diagnose whether a bushing (or all of them) needs to be replaced? Is there a recommended order to replacing them (start with the control arms?) or do I just buy all 34 and have at it? I see aftermarket kits that range in price and material construction dramatically

Given this is my DD, I want to get it right. I would expect there is a big difference in ride characteristics between OE rubber and aftermarket polyurethane or the like.



For clarity... from a visual inspection only, I can see the rear axle is off left to right. Tires are new so can't see any irregular wear.. yet.
First thing that comes to mind is if they didnt center the axle, what else is wrong. Not slamming the vehicle, just be wary...it may not even have a rear track bar. People do crazy crap , or simply forget to put bolts in, etc.

you can roll the vehicle, slam the brakes and see the control arm move sometimes if they are real bad , but hand force won’t show much usually , 3700 lbs moving at speed is the force involved. A pry bar can help.

At 21 years ozone, heat, etc. can compromise bushings-

The track bars just stabilize the axles left to right and adjustable track bars give you adjustment of that , control arms do the same thing front to back- the bushings are the critical part and the bolt torque as well.

the kits tend to be urethane-squeaky and hard

i lean toward carefully diagonose and then replace with stock or higher quality

look really close and you will see cracks in the rubber and signs of age, as well as arm to bracket markings indicating the joint isn’t stable possibly.

First make sure everything is there, all bolted up tight, then consider shocks, sway bar bushings and control arm bushings as needed ...a complete stock arm with bushings from omix-ada is pretty cheap...and they tend not to all fail at once.

Also you may have one in the front that is significantly bad allowing it to pitch forward or several that are slightly bad all over- so be aware the problem can appear to be rearward but be up front. If you will take the time to get familiar with it you will be glad you did now and later...it is intimidating at first but not that complicated.

You are on track that something is wrong and you are looking in the right direction....and watch those brakes as well. Sounds like they need work.

Stay on here...As a reference I know little, I just grasp the concepts sometimes-we have some awesome guys on here.
 
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2000 TJ6, 60k miles. This is DD and I’m not going to do more with it than done outer beach and maybe some easy trails to camping locations.

PO did very little in mods and the few they did were half-baked.
Rough Country 2.5” lift (yes, it’s crazy rough) and that’s about it.

the rear axle is clearly aligned to the passenger side.

what are the symptoms of a misaligned rear axle?

trying to diagnose a bad wander under heavy breaking and really spongy pedal feel.

going in for an alignment and brake check tomorrow.
The axle shifting with that small lift doesn't effect anything except OCD. You can buy a $17 bracket to fix it. At 60,000 miles, nothing should be worn out as far as control arm bushings. Align it yourself in 10 minutes and get the brakes/rotors checked or save money and replace them yourself. Also make sure the tie rod ends are good with no up and down play.
 
The axle shifting with that small lift doesn't effect anything except OCD. You can buy a $17 bracket to fix it. At 60,000 miles, nothing should be worn out as far as control arm bushings. Align it yourself in 10 minutes and get the brakes/rotors checked or save money and replace them yourself. Also make sure the tie rod ends are good with no up and down play.
My ‘03 with 20,000 miles had every control arm bushing failing- mileage and years tend to be somewhat inter related but not completely....if it is stock I’d lean toward all being good with you and maybe something loose though—-stock stuff lasts.
 
My ‘03 with 20,000 miles had every control arm bushing failing- mileage and years tend to be somewhat inter related but not completely....if it is stock I’d lean toward all being good with you and maybe something loose though—-stock stuff lasts.
140,000 miles on all my stock arms. Don't jinx me now.;)
 
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140,000 miles on all my stock arms. Don't jinx me now.;)
I have never seen a stock one just fall apart- not even close , just typical eventual wear. I do think that 35” tires and mud can speed it up. It was the low end aftermarket lift that failed on me to balance that out. Usually failure on stock components is gradual.
 
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I have never seen a stock one just fall apart- not even close , just typical eventual wear. I do think that 35” tires and mud can speed it up. It was the low end aftermarket lift that failed on me to balance that out. Usually failure on stock components is gradual.
My 99 XJ had the pressed in front bushing deteriorate after lots of mud use. They dried and cracked with little pieces falling off. That was at 150,000 miles though.
 
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Control arm bushings can cause what you are experiencing-sway bar bushings can play in a tad.

One that old needs a brake flush, and everything checked-there are 34 bushings underneath these. They all are their to marry the control arms, sway bars and shocks to it.
I get 37, which 3 did you miss?

Stock sway bars have 10 between them.
 
I get 37, which 3 did you miss?

Stock sway bars have 10 between them.
I get a different number every time I count

rear sway bar-4 at the links, 2 at axle (6)

front sway bar -2 at the frame-4 at the links (6)

control arms-16

track bars 3-4 depending on front frame mount type

shocks - fronts 6 rear 4 (10)

These are the ones that would be movement related ...didn’t count the stabilizer - may be off base including shock bushings
 
I've run the same lift and mine was kicked out 1-1/4" to one side. Get a track bar relocation bracket to center the axle back up. Would also be a good time to check the front axle too. Mine was kicked 1-1/2" to the opposite side so every time I hit a bump, all the springs were fighting one another since they were almost 3" out.

I was extremely surprised how well the suspension felt after fixing these two things. I would also disregard the control arm bushings until you address this first.
 
I get a different number every time I count

rear sway bar-4 at the links, 2 at axle (6)
Correct
front sway bar -2 at the frame-4 at the links (6)
Also correct
control arms-16
Correct
track bars 3-4 depending on front frame mount type
Stock form there are 2 at the rear track bar and one at the front.
shocks - fronts 6 rear 4 (10)
A split bushing is still just one connection so 2 for each shock.
These are the ones that would be movement related ...didn’t count the stabilizer - may be off base including shock bushings
Control arms 16
Trackbars 3
Shocks 8
Swaybars 10

I didn't count the motor mounts, trans mount, stabilizer, or exhaust hangers.
 
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I am not a complete stranger to the underside of the Jeep. I had two JKs prior to this. I bought this TJ because of the low miles, super clean frame and floor and rust free body. Sometimes low miles bring different issues due to lack of use.

I don't have anyone here to help me with a dry steering test. I did poke around and found the passenger rear sway bar link has some play in it. Nothing else jumps out at me.. No wear marks, no crumbling or other nasties. Greaseable joints can use some attention. Shocks and springs are new. Steering stabilizer looks like it has seen some miles so we can change that, though my expectations are low that it might impact the wandering issue much, if at all.

Rear track bar is indeed there. Forgot about the relocation bracket.

No groaning, clicks, clunks or rubbing noises when moving.. at all. There are the body rattles we expect with the stiffer suspension but that's it.

I want to get this a baseline that makes it a reasonable DD so tomorrow it goes off to the local shop for fluid changes, brake inspection, fluid flush and bleed. Alignment if time allows, with the expectation that I will bring it to a jeep specific shop for a follow-up. Seems to track fairly straight in general, even at speed, so the alignment isn't entirely suspect.

I'll let the shop get in there with a pry bar. Again, this is about getting to baseline.


I've run the same lift and mine was kicked out 1-1/4" to one side. Get a track bar relocation bracket to center the axle back up. Would also be a good time to check the front axle too. Mine was kicked 1-1/2" to the opposite side so every time I hit a bump, all the springs were fighting one another since they were almost 3" out.

I was extremely surprised how well the suspension felt after fixing these two things. I would also disregard the control arm bushings until you address this first.

Just did a quick measure and both front and rear are about the same as yours. So I am basically crab-walking down the road.

Now that I think about, an alignment might be a waste of time without the relocation brackets.

Thank you all! Good stuff here.

Keeping in mind this is my daily driver and I am not looking to go hardcore with mods what would be a few reasonable options for the relocation brackets? Any reason not to stay with the suspension manufacturer?
 
I am not a complete stranger to the underside of the Jeep. I had two JKs prior to this. I bought this TJ because of the low miles, super clean frame and floor and rust free body. Sometimes low miles bring different issues due to lack of use.

I don't have anyone here to help me with a dry steering test. I did poke around and found the passenger rear sway bar link has some play in it. Nothing else jumps out at me.. No wear marks, no crumbling or other nasties. Greaseable joints can use some attention. Shocks and springs are new. Steering stabilizer looks like it has seen some miles so we can change that, though my expectations are low that it might impact the wandering issue much, if at all.

Rear track bar is indeed there. Forgot about the relocation bracket.

No groaning, clicks, clunks or rubbing noises when moving.. at all. There are the body rattles we expect with the stiffer suspension but that's it.

I want to get this a baseline that makes it a reasonable DD so tomorrow it goes off to the local shop for fluid changes, brake inspection, fluid flush and bleed. Alignment if time allows, with the expectation that I will bring it to a jeep specific shop for a follow-up. Seems to track fairly straight in general, even at speed, so the alignment isn't entirely suspect.

I'll let the shop get in there with a pry bar. Again, this is about getting to baseline.




Just did a quick measure and both front and rear are about the same as yours. So I am basically crab-walking down the road.

Now that I think about, an alignment might be a waste of time without the relocation brackets.

Thank you all! Good stuff here.

Keeping in mind this is my daily driver and I am not looking to go hardcore with mods what would be a few reasonable options for the relocation brackets? Any reason not to stay with the suspension manufacturer?
Staying with Rough Country will be fine. You'll need an adjustable bar for the front & either an adjustable track bar or a relocation bracket for the rear.
 
Or just do this for the front?

https://www.quadratec.com/products/16007_002_07.htm

Is it a waste to do an alignment before the track bar issue is resolved? I recall it mentioned above that the axel offset is more cosmetic/OCD than anything else, but the conflict between front and rear offsets make sense and could be a contributor to the wandering.

Also.. rear sway bar link that needs to be replaced. Looks like a stock item. Should I replace with stock or are the bushings available to be replaced? Front sway bar sits just about horizontal, which was a surprise as the front links look original too (certainly not as squeaky clean as the springs and shocks). How long is the stock front sway bar link?
 
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