Symptoms of rear track bar misalignment

The new
Rob L. said:
https://www.quadratec.com/p/rough-country/front-adjustable-track-bar-wrangler-tjhttps://www.quadratec.com/p/rough-country/rear-track-bar-bracket-jeep-wrangler-tj-1087
Here's all you need. $130 for the front bar & $25 for the rear bracket. I've run this same setup and it worked great. I would recommend getting an alignment after you do the front, the rear doesn't matter.
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That new rough country fromt track bar actually has several cool features.- you can replace the frame end with an es3096L and the axle end with a stock bushing , and there are ways to go to a larger bolt if you desire.

The made in mexico axle end bushing wont last long in it but a stock moog presses right in , the bar is stout and the es 3096L end means an off the shelf greasable replacement is sold and no bushing is on that end making it a firmer set up versus 2 bushings. It is a good value short and long term.
 
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Thank you!

Just spoke to my shop. Going to replace the front brake lines, service the rear drums, flush the brake fluid. Coolant and oil as well.

Looks like the rear sway bar mounting bushings gave up the ship along with the bushings in the sway bar links. This would certainly contribute to the wandering. I may just with stock for now in an effort to get to a good baseline and upgrade as needed from there.

going to hold off on the alignment
 
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Update...

The road issues have been largely resolved. It was, for the most part, brake related.

The brake fluid was likely never changed and as a result some of the soft lines were compromised internally limiting the brake performance severely. The brake bias was shifted heavily forward and with the fronts charged with nearly all off the braking duty, what I was feeling was rear end trying to overtake the front end. I haven't driven it for more than a test, but under REALLY heavy braking it is tracking straight and without fanfare. Noticeably less dive as well. I hadn't noticed this as a problem, but now that it isn't doing it I am more aware of it.

We changed a few lines, adjusted the rear drums, did a full flush of the brake fluid, performed a good bleed and now the pedal feel is great and I can leave my helmet, anchor and parachute at home. Pads and shoes were good.

We did find the sway bar mounting bushings need replacement as do the end link bushings. Control arms were in good order. I am still going to replace the front track bar and install the rear relocation bracket. Collectively this should tidy things up a whole lot after the alignment is done.

So... how best to approach the sway bar end links and mounting bushings? Keeping in mind this is my DD (with an occasional excursion on the beach) and it will not be doing any heavy crawling or extreme trails I am thinking I don't need the extra maintenance or noise of quick disconnects. Theoretically, stock replacements would be sufficient, but I do have a mild lift to be cognoscente of.

What recommendations would you offer?
 
I personally wouldn't fool with any of the sway bar related stuff unless something is broken/severely worn out or you're getting some annoying noises. With that said, if you do want to replace it, anything you can get at your local parts store will be fine given your intentions in the Jeep.

Generally speaking, rear brakes provide less than 40% of the braking force & is often much lower. If the braking was split evenly, the rear brakes would lock up since the vehicle weight shifts forward while stopping. This allows smaller and less efficient braking systems, like drums, to be used as well as lower hydraulic pressures from the master cylinder. So there will always be a large bias towards the front, just FYI.
 
Yes sir.. this I know. easily apparent by the fact that rear brakes are always smaller than the fronts... If only 40% of the braking duty is going to the rears, I likely had 10%.. maybe less.

There are two end link bushings that have way too much play and two more that are squashed beyond recognition. They need to go. The mounting bushings are not as bad, but I would rather replace them all at the same time... Since I am in there....
 
MikekiM said:
Update...

The road issues have been largely resolved. It was, for the most part, brake related.

The brake fluid was likely never changed and as a result some of the soft lines were compromised internally limiting the brake performance severely. The brake bias was shifted heavily forward and with the fronts charged with nearly all off the braking duty, what I was feeling was rear end trying to overtake the front end. I haven't driven it for more than a test, but under REALLY heavy braking it is tracking straight and without fanfare. Noticeably less dive as well. I hadn't noticed this as a problem, but now that it isn't doing it I am more aware of it.

We changed a few lines, adjusted the rear drums, did a full flush of the brake fluid, performed a good bleed and now the pedal feel is great and I can leave my helmet, anchor and parachute at home. Pads and shoes were good.

We did find the sway bar mounting bushings need replacement as do the end link bushings. Control arms were in good order. I am still going to replace the front track bar and install the rear relocation bracket. Collectively this should tidy things up a whole lot after the alignment is done.

So... how best to approach the sway bar end links and mounting bushings? Keeping in mind this is my DD (with an occasional excursion on the beach) and it will not be doing any heavy crawling or extreme trails I am thinking I don't need the extra maintenance or noise of quick disconnects. Theoretically, stock replacements would be sufficient, but I do have a mild lift to be cognoscente of.

What recommendations would you offer?
Click to expand...
Just get JKS or similar, the rough country front links fail at the right angle ball and socket.
MikekiM said:
Yes sir.. this I know. easily apparent by the fact that rear brakes are always smaller than the fronts... If only 40% of the braking duty is going to the rears, I likely had 10%.. maybe less.

There are two end link bushings that have way too much play and two more that are squashed beyond recognition. They need to go. The mounting bushings are not as bad, but I would rather replace them all at the same time... Since I am in there....
Click to expand...
not much money -basically under a tj- if it moves , check it- if it moves too much- might need to replace it. The suspension/steering/ drive system is all about connections, angles and controlled movement. I’m oversimplifying it , but it will not work well if much is sloppy usually.
 
AndyG said:
not much money -basically under a tj- if it moves , check it- if it moves too much- might need to replace it. The suspension/steering/ drive system is all about connections, angles and controlled movement. I’m oversimplifying it , but it will not work well if much is sloppy usually.
Click to expand...

Yes and a simple issue can get exaggerated with each piece that isn't in good order.
The sum of the parts has more impact than any one part alone.
 
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