Synthetic rope failure: Does it drop or recoil?
- Thread starter jjvw
- Start date
I would not have done the video the way I did were it not for me witnessing many sets of rigging on trails where the tubular abrasion guard was run over a knife edge and I picked it up and put a wadded up sweatshirt under it to save the rope.
I'll get you a picture of the pin prick sized hole in the abrasion guard that shows the wear and how fast the line cuts a hole in it.
At no point in time during the use of a winch for recovery is a tubular abrasion guard slid onto the line good enough or even anything resembling close enough.
They hide damage.
They are unwieldy to spool in and generally get caught and bunch up.
They add unnecessary bulk to the line that can better be used for additional footage of line on the winch.
They wear through almost instantly under winch loads.
Got this today
There’s a casting ridge right at the apex of the opening of the old one
There’s a casting ridge right at the apex of the opening of the old one
I have learned more than I ever knew about mounted winches than I knew before, by reading these posts.
Sadly, even well known companies have hopped on the recovery gear bandwagon and it is clear from their products that knowledge does not equal understanding. One of the worst offenders is Poison Spyder. Their hawse fairlead is barely radiused around the opening.
The Warn fairlead had half as much radius on the inside as the outside, you would think they would be the same.
How does that matter, the line only varies in angle from a full to empty drum? Let's be realistic, there isn't a need for anything other than proper clearance on the inside and a very small radius to be sure you can fully load the drum and empty it without hitting an edge.
Can't argue with that, surprising that the rope bends so much going to the drum, mine is almost a straight shot but I've got an old steel hawse (and steel line).
The TRE Has the same radius inside as out, which seems would give the rope less friction exposure.
So that black shmeg on the Warn pictures is the rope? I thought it was damage to the finish on the fairlead, just figured it out. Was your Warn steel or Al?
As promised. A couple pics of the holes in the abrasion guard that allowed the edge of the rock to cut through the line in the videos.
OP
Update! The need for a new fairlead led to a whole new front bumper and shedding 35lbs.
I ended up with a Motobilt stubby to replace the heavy old square tube anchor.
What matters here is fitting the TRE fairlead.
While the width is more than adequate, Motobilt's fairlead mount opening is not tall enough to clear the TRE scribe line.
However, I when I use this piece of tube to trace where the rope will feed, ....
... I could not find a position where the rope could contact the mount opening. As best as I can tell with this particular arrangement, I shouldn't need to widen the opening.
Does anyone see something I'm not seeing or know something I'm not knowing?
I ended up with a Motobilt stubby to replace the heavy old square tube anchor.
What matters here is fitting the TRE fairlead.
While the width is more than adequate, Motobilt's fairlead mount opening is not tall enough to clear the TRE scribe line.
However, I when I use this piece of tube to trace where the rope will feed, ....
... I could not find a position where the rope could contact the mount opening. As best as I can tell with this particular arrangement, I shouldn't need to widen the opening.
Does anyone see something I'm not seeing or know something I'm not knowing?
Your test rod needs to move down to the top of the bumper. That is a scenario that the line will see when it stacks up on one side.
OP
OP