I have always felt the TJs/LJs have been lacking when it came to having a pin-switch for the tailgate that activated the overhead dome light especially for those who remove the rear seat and use the back for open storage. I have seen others look for the same thing, but I have been unable to find a definitive guide. So here is a simple How-To on how to install this feature with all the trial and error removed.
Install Time: 30-45 minutes when you have all materials and moderate electrical experience
**Don't forget to either disconnect the battery or remove the #4 Fuse for the Door Lights to protect system while installing**
Materials:
-(1) Glove Box Light Mod)
-(1) Roll of wire (16 Gauge, marine grade due to not using a top in the summer)
-(1) T-Tap with Connector (16 Gauge)
-(1) Slide Connect Female (16 gauge, I used heat shrinkable weatherproof type)
-(1) #8x1/2" self-tapping screw (or use a similar size bolt with matching size drill bit for the mounting hole on the pin switch)
-Mounting Pads (I suggest these because America)
-Zip Ties (see reason above)
-Shrink Tubing (Optional, but adds to longevity)
-1/4" braided wire sleeve (Optional, but adds to longevity)
Tools
-Power Drill
-3/8in Drill Bit (for metal unless you like messing up your wood bits)
-Heat Gun (for shrink tube)
** Note: You can buy all these products locally and are just suggestions. There are many ways to build the same system, you may have a better idea to connect components. The only part I bought online was the pin-switch**
Installation:
I first went to my tailgate and looked at mounting location possibilities. I was originally going to mount the pin switch within the hinge, but I plan on switching to other Heavy Duty hinges in the future. The next best place was on the hinge-side lip of the tailgate where the lip meets the weather stripping. I chose the hinge-side because you aren't slamming that side shut like you do on the handle-side (so the switch should last longer).
After finding my switch mounting point, I then went to the passenger side door pin-switch and popped it out to look at the wiring. You will see two wires. Mine had a Yellow/Green wire and a Purple/Yellow Wire. The Yellow/Green is a Universal Ground wire code, so I assumed the Purple/Yellow Wire was the positive supply (the wire where you will tap into).
I opened my roll of red 16 gauge wire and made an approximate cut that would allow me to remove excess length later after finalizing installation. I stripped one end and crimped the connector that attaches to the T-Tap (usually comes in sets with the T-Taps). I stripped the other end and crimped on the Slide Connect (female) that would attach to the Pin Switch tab. At this time I also slipped on the braided wire sleeve.
I opened and removed my glovebox while tugging on the door-switch until I saw the matching Green/Yellow and Purple/Yellow wires moving by the fuse panel. I then took the T-Tap and clamped it onto the Purple/Yellow Wire and plugged in the matching connector that was previously crimped above. Make sure you use pliers to securely attach the T-Tap; you will hear the enclosure snap and lock in place.
Connect the length of wire using male-side T-Tap connector and use zip ties to secure the wires and prevent future tugging.
I ran the length of wire to the rear of the vehicle following the body tub-edge on the passenger side to where I would mount the Pin-Switch. I marked the exact spot for the pin-switch and drilled a 3/8" hole for the main body of the pin switch. I pushed the pin switch through the hole and then installed the mounting screw using a self-tapping screw (or drill a hole and use a small bolt).
You will see notches cut into the pin-switch plastic body, I cut it down to the lowest notch due to the small space in the area mounted. I made sure the rubber boot was installed correctly around the outside of the switch and that the tailgate closed correctly.
I then plugged in the Female Slide Connector to the pin-switch tab. I replaced the #4 Fuse and tested the system.
The pin switch worked perfect and each door activated/deactivated the Dome Light independent of each other.
At this time, I took the 1"x1" cable mounting squares and zip-ties and finalized my wire routing making sure it is unseen and out of the way. I also cut the wire to the prefect length and stripped/re-crimped the pin-switch side of the wire after routing it.
Your tailgate will now turn on your courtesy dome lights.
Post any questions below or feel free to PM me and I will add/update the post if I am missing anything.
Install Time: 30-45 minutes when you have all materials and moderate electrical experience
**Don't forget to either disconnect the battery or remove the #4 Fuse for the Door Lights to protect system while installing**
Materials:
-(1) Glove Box Light Mod)
-(1) Roll of wire (16 Gauge, marine grade due to not using a top in the summer)
-(1) T-Tap with Connector (16 Gauge)
-(1) Slide Connect Female (16 gauge, I used heat shrinkable weatherproof type)
-(1) #8x1/2" self-tapping screw (or use a similar size bolt with matching size drill bit for the mounting hole on the pin switch)
-Mounting Pads (I suggest these because America)
-Zip Ties (see reason above)
-Shrink Tubing (Optional, but adds to longevity)
-1/4" braided wire sleeve (Optional, but adds to longevity)
Tools
-Power Drill
-3/8in Drill Bit (for metal unless you like messing up your wood bits)
-Heat Gun (for shrink tube)
** Note: You can buy all these products locally and are just suggestions. There are many ways to build the same system, you may have a better idea to connect components. The only part I bought online was the pin-switch**
Installation:
I first went to my tailgate and looked at mounting location possibilities. I was originally going to mount the pin switch within the hinge, but I plan on switching to other Heavy Duty hinges in the future. The next best place was on the hinge-side lip of the tailgate where the lip meets the weather stripping. I chose the hinge-side because you aren't slamming that side shut like you do on the handle-side (so the switch should last longer).
After finding my switch mounting point, I then went to the passenger side door pin-switch and popped it out to look at the wiring. You will see two wires. Mine had a Yellow/Green wire and a Purple/Yellow Wire. The Yellow/Green is a Universal Ground wire code, so I assumed the Purple/Yellow Wire was the positive supply (the wire where you will tap into).
I opened my roll of red 16 gauge wire and made an approximate cut that would allow me to remove excess length later after finalizing installation. I stripped one end and crimped the connector that attaches to the T-Tap (usually comes in sets with the T-Taps). I stripped the other end and crimped on the Slide Connect (female) that would attach to the Pin Switch tab. At this time I also slipped on the braided wire sleeve.
I opened and removed my glovebox while tugging on the door-switch until I saw the matching Green/Yellow and Purple/Yellow wires moving by the fuse panel. I then took the T-Tap and clamped it onto the Purple/Yellow Wire and plugged in the matching connector that was previously crimped above. Make sure you use pliers to securely attach the T-Tap; you will hear the enclosure snap and lock in place.
Connect the length of wire using male-side T-Tap connector and use zip ties to secure the wires and prevent future tugging.
I ran the length of wire to the rear of the vehicle following the body tub-edge on the passenger side to where I would mount the Pin-Switch. I marked the exact spot for the pin-switch and drilled a 3/8" hole for the main body of the pin switch. I pushed the pin switch through the hole and then installed the mounting screw using a self-tapping screw (or drill a hole and use a small bolt).
You will see notches cut into the pin-switch plastic body, I cut it down to the lowest notch due to the small space in the area mounted. I made sure the rubber boot was installed correctly around the outside of the switch and that the tailgate closed correctly.
I then plugged in the Female Slide Connector to the pin-switch tab. I replaced the #4 Fuse and tested the system.
The pin switch worked perfect and each door activated/deactivated the Dome Light independent of each other.
At this time, I took the 1"x1" cable mounting squares and zip-ties and finalized my wire routing making sure it is unseen and out of the way. I also cut the wire to the prefect length and stripped/re-crimped the pin-switch side of the wire after routing it.
Your tailgate will now turn on your courtesy dome lights.
Post any questions below or feel free to PM me and I will add/update the post if I am missing anything.
Last edited:
