Tasteful LJR Build

[erokj]

Figured I should start a build thread as my mods are slowly increasing over stock. My overall goal is to keep this "stock-modified" with reliability. I want to keep it road friendly yet still be able to rock crawl. I'm trying to do it right the first time with this build. With that said, this will be a long build as good parts are expensive and I have another Willys 2a project.

Here is the plan:
2006 LJR
4.0 w/ 55k miles
NSG370 (reverse sucks) might replace with AX-15?
NV241OR
Front Dynatrac Dana 44
Eaton E-Lockers
4.88's
RCVs
34" Mud Terrain Tire
17" Quadratec MOAB Wheels
2.5" OME Springs
Currie Track Bars
Savvy Control Arms
Currie Bump Stops
Front Anti-Rock
Rancho Shocks
Currie Correctlync Steering
Savvy Tummy Tuck with engine skid
Savvy 1.25" BL
Savvy Cable Shifter
Savvy Front/Rear Bumpers
Savvy Rocker Guards
Poison Spyder Corner Guards
Exogate Tailgate
Bedrug carpet
Mastercraft Front Seats
Warn winch (8274 or Zeon)
Bestop Element Doors

As always, I'm looking for suggestions and ideas about the build list.

I bought this LJR with JKR wheels/tires, hard top, soft top, TJR wheels, and a few other extras. I was able to convince the wife that this would make a great family rig (we have a 1 year old). On to the photos!

 

[erokj]

The day I brought her home!

 

[erokj]

Savvy BL and cable shifter installed

 

[erokj]

Added the JKR wheels and tires

 

[erokj]

Bestop element door project..

(I am no means a good painter lol)

 

[IPerkWVU]

34's may be a bit tall for that lift and stock fenders. I run 35s on that size but it took some trial and error with MCE fenders and adjustable control arms. I ran 33s at that hight without issue (285/75r16).

Others may be able to chime in on the currie steering at that height but it's designed for 4" lift and minimum 2" bumpstop. Not sure if those specs are truly required or not... For that reason I went with the ZJ tirerod

 

[FireJeep]

I have that lift (OME 2 1/2”) and run 285 75R16 without issue, I agree, anything taller and you will probably get contact. I have the 1 1/4” JKS body lift as well. I am pretty happy with the lift, it looks close to stock, maybe what Jeep should have done with the Rubicon package......

I am looking at different control arms as well. People on here really like Savvy, and their stuff is top notch, but I have had a JJ (or similar) freeze up on my JKS track bar and a friend with the same track bar had to rebuild his after 2 years of street only use. Most people on here do not care for Metalcloak, but I am leaning towards their control arms simply for the maintenance free aspect. Granted, I am not a hard core rock crawler, my LJ is my daily driver and I enjoy “overlanding”, so the whole ”JJ are far superior because they are stronger than superman” is not my “grading criteria”....

 

[IPerkWVU]

L

I have that lift (OME 2 1/2”) and run 285 75R16 without issue, I agree, anything taller and you will probably get contact. I have the 1 1/4” JKS body lift as well. I am pretty happy with the lift, it looks close to stock, maybe what Jeep should have done with the Rubicon package......

I am looking at different control arms as well. People on here really like Savvy, and their stuff is top notch, but I have had a JJ (or similar) freeze up on my JKS track bar and a friend with the same track bar had to rebuild his after 2 years of street only use. Most people on here do not care for Metalcloak, but I am leaning towards their control arms simply for the maintenance free aspect. Granted, I am not a hard core rock crawler, my LJ is my daily driver and I enjoy “overlanding”, so the whole ”JJ are far superior because they are stronger than superman” is not my “grading criteria”....

lots of folks here MC arms, including me. I think MC gets a bad rap for their marketing and some questionable designs but the arms work well, at least for me.

 

[Chris]

That’s a great looking Unlimited Rubicon!

 

[erokj]

L

lots of folks here MC arms, including me. I think MC gets a bad rap for their marketing and some questionable designs but the arms work well, at least for me.

Agreed. The 285/75R17 is a "big" 33 so that's kinda what I'm looking for.

IMO Savvy or Currie is the only way to go for control arms. I find that more manufacturers are using Johnny Joints than MC joints. That's gotta say something about the quality of the joint.

 

[taylormade73]

Beautiful LJR! I really love the build plan and direction. However, with that list of parts it should be considered stock-MODIFIED, LOL. Looking forward to watching the progression.

 

[g.hayduke]

I have had a JJ (or similar) freeze up on my JKS track bar and a friend with the same track bar had to rebuild his after 2 years of street only use

JKS does NOT use Johnny Joints. I had JKS upper rear CAs on for about 10,000 miles and the joints were shot. Not sure why their JJ look-alikes don't last but apparently they don't. Genuine Johhny Joints have a great reputation.

I'm now running Currie lower CAs and Savvy uppers. The Savvy double adjustables make it super easy to dial in the pinion angle. And the Curries are super beefy.

 

[FireJeep]

JKS does NOT use Johnny Joints. I had JKS upper rear CAs on for about 10,000 miles and the joints were shot. Not sure why their JJ look-alikes don't last but apparently they don't. Genuine Johhny Joints have a great reputation.

I'm now running Currie lower CAs and Savvy uppers. The Savvy double adjustables make it super easy to dial in the pinion angle. And the Curries are super beefy.

Fair enough, however, I believe the JJ still requires periodic maintenance and, my understanding is they transmit significantly more road noise than a bushing does....?
As much as I would love to just use my LJ off road, reality is it is my daily driver and I have to drive it to places like TJ Fest.....

 

[g.hayduke]

my understanding is they transmit significantly more road noise than a bushing does....?

That's a myth. Lots of people run CAs with JJs as daily drivers with no noticeable downsides. As far as maintenance, a little grease is all they need. I often drive my LJR hundreds of miles to get to a wheeling destination.

Biggest drawback is wind noise if I run the soft top. That's why I'm currently opting for the hard top and full doors.

 

[FireJeep]

That's a myth. Lots of people run CAs with JJs as daily drivers with no noticeable downsides. As far as maintenance, a little grease is all they need. I often drive my LJR hundreds of miles to get to a wheeling destination.

Biggest drawback is wind noise if I run the soft top. That's why I'm currently opting for the hard top and full doors.

Seeing as I have not had JJ in my LJ I will have to defer to your experience with them. What are the draw backs to the Metalcloak control arms? According to their marketing hype they articulate better/more angle..... and no maintenance..... thoughts?

 

[Daz7]

If you are just doing firetrails and mild off-roading a standard rubber bush in a suspension arm will suit you fine and have no maintenance until they wear out and need replacing, Metalcloaks are a bespoke bush so you'd have to purchase from them.

The Currie/Savvy arms are really good and from what I see have little downside and are rebuildable.

 

[erokj]

Minor progress today. I'm planning on a wheeling trip the end of July so I'm slowly preparing the LJ.

I replaced the stock controls arms and added some diff protection. I'm debating replacing the track bars and upper control arms as I'm going to eventually lift it. But, given the condition of the lowers maybe I should??

Next up, CB, rear corner armor, half doors.

Also, I want some sort of engine skid. The previous owner definitely wheeled this thing and didn't care about hitting the oil pan. Any suggestions?

 

[gaabbee]

Nice LJR! I was in a similar position as you last year debating on direction to go and in what order. I decided to bite the bullet and replace the suspension all at once instead of piecing things together. I went with one of the Currie kits.

They provide you with springs, control arms, track bar, relocation bracket, and links. They are steep in price but you can find deals if you look around. My ride actually improved vs my worn out bushings. (looked similar to yours) I have no regrets and feel good about doing it once and using quality parts.

As far as your 6 speed goes. I had some trouble with reverse at first but after changing my routine I've never had problems. After starting it take your foot off the clutch in neutral. Wait a bit. Push the clutch in and hold it down for a bit in neutral (maybe 5 seconds) then go into reverse. If you feel like the shifter did not engage all the way into reverse come back to neutral and release the clutch. Push the clutch in again and wait a little longer then try again. Mine seems to not like being rushed into reverse.

 

[FireJeep]

I have the same transmission and have not had this issue, but it would “clunk” into second gear pretty regularly. Some on here do not agree or like AMSOIL, but I do and use it in everything, wife’s 2014 Cherokee, my 2014 Indian motorcycle, and everything on my LJ. Once I changed the oil in the trans to the recommended weight of AMSOIL I have not had anymore issues.......

 

[pagrey]

I replaced the stock controls arms and added some diff protection. I'm debating replacing the track bars and upper control arms as I'm going to eventually lift it. But, given the condition of the lowers maybe I should??

If the track bars are tight I wouldn't worry about them. The front upper control arms make more of a difference than the lowers as far as ride and steering feel to me. If you noticed a difference replacing the lowers then definitely replace the uppers, you'll be happy you did.