TehHeep's 04 TJ Rubicon Build

Yeah I've got the same gears, (03 rubi) and curious how that would hold up. My daily commute is about 8 miles, so I really only drive around town and trails. Why did you decide on 4.88 instead of 5.13?

The antirock fits through the frame hole that is parallel to the front bumper. You may be able to get by depending on bu.per. but my warn curves too much to allow a solid strike with a hammer when placing the antirock's support system, they fit very tight into the frame.

Because I still want to run the jeep 75 down the highway without screaming, 4.88 puts the 5th gear cruising revs just over stock ratio; 5.13s would put on another 150-200 RPM.

All the bumpers I am looking at shouldn't prevent a BFH from installing the antirock, they hug the frame rail and have cut outs around the tube area. I figured that was it, just wanted to make sure there wasn't something else I had overlooked (you never know)! haha.

Just waiting on all of my Metalcloak gear to show! It was between them and Currie for the lift.
 
I noticed lately that my clutch pedal engagement point has been getting closer to the floor. I have also been getting some mild nibbles here and there when going into gear, and generally a mushy/lethargic pedal feel.

I figured its time to replace the clutch master and slave cylinder assembly before it leaves me somewhere not so convenient.

At least you don't have to pull the transmission on a TJ to replace the slave...

Mopar is $200, Centric is $100.

The Centric assembly down to the writing/markings is just about identical to stock with some small improvements, so this is the unit I went with.

The assembly (like many) already comes filled with fluid, bled, and ready to go. You just bolt everything on and press the pedal to break the nylon tie holding the slave piston in place and your good to go. There wasn't an extra inch of tubing, it fits and routes like stock.

I spent more time cleaning the rusty studs/nuts holding the slave cylinder on then installing everything.

My clutch now catches at the top of the pedal again and feels nice and crisp once more; wish I had done it sooner.

clutchmasslav.jpg
 
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Let me know what you think of the metal cloak, it was between them and currie for me too

I don't think you can go wrong with either one, they are both top shelf kits.

The Currie JJs are proven and the MC Duroflex (and joints of a similar idea - Synergy) are gaining market share daily.

I liked the rubber joints for the street and their ease of rebuild, my kit will have the new kevlar joints.

I was impressed by the CTI score that some of these MC short arm lifts are achieving, I saw them out performing a lot of stuff!
 
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Well more Jeep repair fun to be had...

I have been mostly driving the jeep this past month and I began to notice a decent little loss of power in 5th gear; hills I could normally pull in 5th gear I now needed to be in 4th gear for.

I just brushed this off as lack of performance due to the 95+ degree air temperatures that we have been seeing.

I was coming home last night and noticed:

- a severe reduction in performance/power.
- much louder than normal intake sound
- a different exhaust sound, much quieter.
- glowing bank 1 and 2 precats.

I haven't had time to really investigate, but I am betting on my cat(s) being clogged up pretty good.

She idles fine, goes slow fine, but give her any throttle and she behaves like a loaded up 2 stroke... Going no where fast with the skinny pedal matted to the floor.

My fuel trims for bank 2 are way different than 1, so if anything I lost a bank 2 precat.

I must say im not impressed with the exhaust options for the TJ... No real high quality systems out there; not sure why?
 
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Update:

Finally got around to hacking open the exhaust on her and sure enough, there are some dead kittens in there. This was the downstream primary cat filled with crap from the upstream precat(s).

I am going to have to remove the precats and take a look at them more closely.

jeepcat2.jpeg


jeepcat1.jpeg
 
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