Tennessee Red

[gasiorv]

I moved away from Pennsylvania when I was 23 yo, 23 years later I caught myself telling people that I was from PA and it occurred to me, NO I am not, I am from Tennessee so I added a TN flag plate to the front of my 04 Rubicon as a reminder that I am from Tennessee not Pennsylvania and that plate has been all over and beat to heck and back but is still hanging in there. So Tennessee Red.

I had CJs when I was a kid, my first vehicle was a '67 CJ5 with the Dauntless 225 V6, I then had a '76 CJ5 with the 258 and a 4sp which I wrecked and then got a '77 CJ5 with the 304 V8 and 3sp. I pulled the drivetrain out of the wrecked '76 and put it in the '77 because I liked the inline 6 and 4 sp (3 sp with a lo) better. Anyway, years and years after selling them and life happening I got the urge to buy another Jeep so in 2015 I bought a '98 TJ which I still have and is basically still completely stock. It was my daily driver from 2015 thru June 2020 and it will now go to my 16yo once he gets his driver's license. I enjoyed having the '98 TJ that I found the 04 Rubicon in 2016 and I purchased it and it is now my toy.

This thread will be about the 04 Rubicon, for now I am keeping the 98 as stock as possible (including the milk jugs) so that my 16yo has something that he can decide the direction he wants to go.

For the 04 Rubicon, From 2016 thru June 2020, it was driven to the trails, and wheeled pretty hard, but always got me home at the end of the day or weekend. In June 2020, I bought a pickup and trailer and since then I have broken something every trip (5 for 5), coincidence?

I am actually not that great at remembering to take pictures, but I will hopefully get better.

 

[TWiG01]

Very nice, both TJs look clean. Tennessee is a beautiful state

 

[gasiorv]

When purchased, it had 167K miles, a 4" lift (unknown make), 35" K02 on 17" steel wheels, and a Tabor winch, everything else was basically stock Rubicon. The first year I basically just wheeled it as I bought it to see how everything worked and just did basic maintenance items. The first few wheeling trips, she tended to run a little hot, so I replaced the entire cooling system, I also replaced the spark plugs and coil rail. ended up replacing the passenger side ball joint, and also the front axle seals due to leakage. I also installed PS Bombproof diff covers due to bashing in one of my diff covers pretty good. I was at Windrock and ended up on the trail way past dark and noticed the headlights were awful, so I installed LEDs. It was all just basic maintenance until Oct 2017.

During that first year I determined that I did not like the ride of the previous owners lift and also the bushings in the control arms were shot and I knew that I wanted more belly height.
In Oct 2017 I accomplished the following:
1" MML
Novak Transfer Case Cable
Removed OEM transfer skid (which had 1.5" spacers installed by PO) and installed UCF Extra Clearance Skid with LOPRO trans mount.
Installed Currie 4" short arm
Bilstein 5100 shocks
RE Front Track Bar
ZJ Tie Rod
Tom Woods Rear DS
Relocated stock locker pumps to engine bay

Then I took it back out to see how she would do.

 

[gasiorv]

For next year I just wheeled it to see how everything worked and did normal maintenance and upgrades as items wore or broke.
Installed Ten Factory Chromoly axles due to stock axle issues
New fuel pump
2 Crank Position Sensors
Had to replace the TW DS due to an issue, but they were top notch and shipped warranty the same day.

In Sept 2018 I decided to ditch the old KO2s and also the steel 17" wheels.
Installed 35" Wrangler MT/Rs on 15" aluminum wheels.
That also showed me that I really needed a little more clearance for 35's and I installed a 1" BL.

I then went to wheeling it again and the new tires and my new confidence to really air down to approx 9 psi with the 15" wheels and the bigger sidewalls really made a huge difference and I somehow ended up starting to always wheel with the crowd that was doing the "hard" trails. It turns out I like being the guy on 35's in the group on 40's.

 

[gasiorv]

Some 2019 and 2020 wheeling pics at Hawk Pride in Alabama and Hot Springs ORV in Arkansas.

 

[gasiorv]

During that time, I had removed the OEM rear seat and replaced it with a single bucket, I also built a box to hold spare parts, tools, and fluids and mounted it next to newly installed rear bucket. That was a lot of weight! Since I got a pickup and trailer, I removed that box and reinstalled the OEM rear seat, I also removed the rear spare tire and carrier. Since I am mostly at parks, I just carry most things in the truck and now just have to worry about getting back to the parking lot.

Some other upgrades and mtc items in 2018 and 2019:
Antirock on front.
Bent ZJ tie rod so replaced it with Currie Currectlynk steering
Front Track Bar Bracket was cracked and replaced.
Took apart winch, cleaned it out, and got it working smoothly. Also added in-cab winch controls.

 

[gasiorv]

Due to the quarantine, I have actually wheeled more in 2020 than in most years. I have been to HSORV at least 8x and to Hawk Pride probably 5x. It also was the time when the stock axle brackets which have been abused for the last few years started to break. So I had to learn to weld. I ended up getting a Lincoln Buzz Box from my Dad and I also got a small MIG machine from a friend of mine.

First was the drivers side upper control arm bracket/track bar mount. It cracked and separated during a trip. I determined that it was due to the stock track bar and the way the previous owner installed the raised track bar bracket. So I upgraded the UCA bracket to a thicker bracket, installed a JKS bent track bar bracket, and I added a gusset to help take some of the side loading of the track bar. I also upgraded to a JKS adjustable track bar.

Since I had the axle out, I decide to upgrade the other control arm brackets to 1/4" thick brackets as well.

A few trips later, a front LCA bracket sheared off so the control arm brackets have now been replaced on the front axles.

I also did a Tie Rod End flip and cut off the existing sway bar brackets and installed the BMB sway bar brackets.

Ended up with some front fender damage and I really, really, really like the look of the stock TJ front fenders; however, I decided to with a negative flare tube in order to give me more clearance and to help from damaging in the future.

 

[gasiorv]

Also, in 2020 I removed the 1" BL and replaced with an aluminum 1.25" BL, I also removed the UCF Extra Clearance transfer skid and replaced with a UCF Ultra Clearance Skid.

Some other mods and items I missed:
4:88 gears
Rear Locker was replaced with Eaton Elocker
Trimmed down front bumper to a stubby
Gas tank skid has been bashed so hard and so many times that it is now a high clearance skid (free mod)

So right now, I am at:
93" wheel base (should be 94" but I am measuring 93")
Frame height -20-1/4"
Belly height at lowest point - 19"
35" tires

I ultimately want to get to 37" tires and 104" wheel base, but will have to do it in steps.

My first step will be to install the savvy mid arm and keep 35" tires. I will also do the rear shock outbd. It will take me a few years before I can upgrade to 37" tires so I will stick with my Dana 44 axles and 35"s for now. My current debate is whether or not I should stretch the wheelbase (by stretching frame right behind transfer skid) at the same time I do mid arm since I will already have access to that area and be relocating fuel and brake lines, etc... just do it all once. Or if I should just keep the 94" wheelbase until I upgrade to 37". When I do the stretch I am going to put a fuel cell in the cargo area and remove from behind the axles, so that is not a factor, when I do the stretch (now or later) the fuel tank will also be removed.

 

[gasiorv]

This past weekends trip to HSORV, I put her on her side on Can Opener. Rolled it back over with the winch, pulled the plugs, was amazed at how much oil pumped out of the cylinders (especially 5 and 6), then kept wheeling and doing mosquito control.

My 16yo son and my 74yo Dad were in the back seat and they couldn't stop laughing and my wife was in the passenger seat and didn't say much. Pictures don't do justice to how steep it was and it was a god send that I had the in cab winch controls and great riding partners who jumped in to help in a jiffy. I recommend having in-cab winch control or hooking up your winch controller and having it ready, I think it would have sucked to have had to find the controller in the console or tool bag when basically upside down. Also, make sure you are wheeling in a group.

Very little damage to the jeep, the windshield pillar got dented and the cage is possibly tweaked a little bit, so I am purchasing a new cage.

Later in the day on the last trail of day, I broke the drivers side axle u-joint. When replacing the u-joint I noted that the ball joint also had a lot of play and it was a brand new ball joint, first ride after it's install? Anyway, both have been replaced and she is ready for next adventure.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Can’t help with the tweaked cage, but the dent in the A-pillar is an easy fix - install a set of A-pillar guards. They will cover the dent, and it won’t dent again. I once badly caved in my passenger A-pillar pivoting around a tree, and those guards covered the damage completely. I’ve since laid the rig on that same tree with no problem.

Sounds like a good wheelin’ trip.

 

[gasiorv]

I will look into the A-pillar guards.

I did get around to pulling out the tweaked cage and I am going to install a new cage just to be safe The back half of the old roll bar was probably salvageable with most of the damage in the drivers side header bar but the attachment of the header bar to the b-pillar was actually cracked and there was a minor dent right where the header bar attached so I decided to just replace the whole thing. Since I usually have someone in the rear seat, head clearance for the rear passenger was crucial and I also wanted a through the dash A-pillar as well as some additional triangulation for strength. I found a kit from welderd.com that seemed to meet all my needs. Once I get it installed, I am going to tackle my rear frame stretch and then i will tie in the new cage to the frame

I know it isn't feasible to keep it this way, but i really like the look of the TJ with no cage installed.

 

[Chris]

Great build thread, I look forward to following it more

 

[gasiorv]

Started working on my cage, specifically the A-pillars and how to route the tubing through the dash. With a little tweaking of the duct vents and a little trim on the bottom of the dash I was able to get the tubes through and where I want them. My plan was to bolt the tube to the floor at the channel (will have to rework floor due to a slight step up in this area) and then on the under side to add a universal frame tie-in. This will leave a gap in the middle of the floor channel. Have others left this gap? I could cut the lower channel and add spacers between the floor and the tie in plate, but it seems like leaving the channel may be stronger. I thought about cutting a hole through floor just for tube and running tube to attach directly to the frame tie in plate, but unfortunately I don't think the a-pillar tube is long enough.

Anyway, just typing out loud right now. Here is some pics or how I routed the a-pillar tube.
BTW - if anyone is searching for how to tweak dash in the future, I tweaked the duct using a heat gun and I trimmed the very lower corner of the dash (where the OBDII connector mounts on drivers side and mirror on pax side).

 

[MeanGreen86]

watching this

 

[NashvilleTJ]

When I did the A-pillar mount on my rig, I massaged the floor with a BFH to get it as close to flat as possible, bolted the plate in place, and trimmed the bottom of the tube to be flat against the plate. No gap.

 

[gasiorv]

NashvilleTJ, that is exactly what I was planning on doing. But then I had an idea to drill a 2" hole through the floor and channel and then bolt the plate to the lower side. I can then tie that plate into the frame with a mount. I also found a thread in jeep forum where someone (I believe it was you) posted a picture showing a quick release connection at the bottom of the A-pillar which got me thinking about doing the same. So in order to do that I have to get some more tubing and placed my a-pillar on hold for now.

I did get some other parts of the cage dry fit and the tubes cleaned up so I can start tacking. I unfortunately did learn a lesson about the clamping strength of trigger clamps. Right before this picture was taken the clamps holding up the front of the cage slipped and the cage fell to the dash taking out the rear view mirror and cracking the windshield. Been learning lessons this way my whole life, you would think I would learn by now, ha. You can't see it in the picture, but I tacked the header tube to the windshield mounts to hopefully keep this from happening again, I didn't tack it before because I didn't want to have to grind the tacks if I needed to tweak the tube one way or the other (lesson learned).

 

[gasiorv]

Haven't had much time to work on my cage over the last few weeks. Lucky for me I had an opportunity to go to Northwest Arkansas to do some Mt Biking. If there are any mt bikers reading this, add Bentonville to your bucket list. Trails for every style of rider and trails everywhere!

I did get some more of the cage fit and tacked in to place. I am now waiting for my seats and harnesses to come in so I can verify the placement of the harness bars. I purchased PRP daily drivers for the front and I am keeping the stock seat in the rear. I also purchased 4 point harnesses for front and rear passenger seats. I ended up purchasing a 5 pt harness for the driver seat; however I will mostly just run it as a 4 pt, the only reason I bought the 5 pt was for the type of buckle that allowed the shoulder straps to be completely disconnected (not stitched to lap belt). Since I am in and out guiding others most of the day I wanted the ability to just run the lap belt and then slip on the shoulder straps when I feel the need.

I also have to remake the A pillar frame tie-ins. I pre made the tube and plate that would come up from the bottom and I made them square. Unfortunately the tube needs to be welded to the plate on an angle, oh well, just more practice with grinder and torch.

I purposely chose this kit because it gives plenty of head room for rear passengers while also providing decent protection for the rear passengers. I knew it would make it hard for the passenger to climb in, but wow it is going to be very difficult for a adult passenger to get in the back once the harness bars are installed.

 

[mattcogdell]

Does this cage retain the factory overhead sound bar? Any provisions for factory seat belts?

 

[gasiorv]

Does this cage retain the factory overhead sound bar? Any provisions for factory seat belts?

No and No.

Once I get it all installed, I will figure out if I can modify and reinstall the sound bars or if I will have to come up with something different for speakers. As far as stock seatbelts, you can purchase bungs and weld them in to reattach. I think PS, motobilt, barnes, etc... all offer them in their builder sections.

I was originally going to reinstall stock belts but I decided not to after coming to the realization that it will be used on the trail 90% of the time with 10% of the time on roads being just running from Airbnb's and cabins to trails and gas stations.

 

[gasiorv]

Little more progress. I got the cage fully fit and tacked into place. I then went to remove it from the body in order to provide better access for welding. Well, another lesson learned. I used light tacks during the fit up and I should have added some additional tacks in the A-pillar attachment because when I was removing I bound up the legs coming through the dash and the tack welds snapped. I decided to just continue removing (It was basically off at that point with no a-pillars), will weld it up and then reinstall and redo the A-pillar and windshield fit up and then just lift enough weld the a-pillars and windshield surrounds in place.

I am going to redo the overhead supports between the B and C pillars in order to add a bend and more head room. As it sits it is about an inch from my son's head and I would prefer just a little more clearance.

I have it fit up with the stock seats, the PRP seats that I ordered 6 weeks ago get continuously pushed out. Latest email is now stating shipping on Jan 8th. So hopefully the PRP seats are the same size or smaller than the Wrangler seats.