Tennessee Red
- Thread starter gasiorv
- Start date
Brianj5600
TJ Expert
I wish I could have made the trip, but I planned all my vacation time to get the whole month of July for a western Jeep trip. There were many times I regretted not going. I won't miss out next year.
After watching you climb out on Merlin unassisted, it must have been sketchy for you to pull cable.
After watching you climb out on Merlin unassisted, it must have been sketchy for you to pull cable.
OP
@Brianj5600 the trails in Moab are completely different than Alabama, Tennessee, and Arkansas. For one, there is traction! The steepness and lengths of the climbs were a little unsettling when looking at them, but the jeeps just walked right up them. We would never attempt similar climbs around here because there would be no traction. The other big difference is that the trails are wide open and it is mostly just steps (steep and large) or v notches and not the boulder fields of large rocks that we are used to picking our way through. Very rarely was the front and rear diff an issue because it was not constant rock gardens, it was just steps so having belly clearance and traction was key.
Another thing to keep in mind is that since it is so wide open there is not a readily available winch point everywhere.
No trees = Nothing to wrap a tree saver around.
Another thing to keep in mind is that since it is so wide open there is not a readily available winch point everywhere.
No trees = Nothing to wrap a tree saver around.
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Brianj5600
TJ Expert
Lack of tree to stop you from rolling all the way to the bottom either. I will probably try to hit some scenic trails in July.
OP
A few pics from Top of the World and my son driving. He drove a little on Day 1 (PS, GS, and GB) and he drove all day when we did Top of the World.
OP
A few good pics at the Golden Crack. Thanks to @Apparition
And some awesome Scenery in the pic. What a magical place!!
And some awesome Scenery in the pic. What a magical place!!
OP
I borrowed my sisters go pro for the Moab trip, when I got back home she told me to keep it since she never uses it. So I have started playing around with some go pro footage and video editing. I created a you tube channel, it is going to be mostly Jeeping, Mt biking, and whatever other adventure I may find myself in. There is videos from Moab already on the channel and some other mt bike videos where I am just trying to figure out camera mount locations.
You Tube Channel
You Tube Channel
OP
Finally got around to doing a post Moab inspection of my Jeep.
One of the trans skid bolts had come loose and the Nutsert threads were a little boogered. This was probably actually a result of me stripping out a bolt at this location during my clutch change. I ran a tap up through the nutsert to clean up the threads and bought and installed a new M12 bolt and it seems to be good.
My steering stabilizer got contacted and spun and it was making contact with the Track Bar. Fixed the steering stablizer but the track bar has pretty deep gouge. Not sure if I am going to weld on a reinforcement or buy a new track bar. Plan on going wheeling this weekend, so most likely going to clean it up and watch it.
Drivers side rear wheel lug nuts were all loose. Not sure how that happened, but I was able to spin them all off with my fingers
The most outer and most inner lugs on my tires are noticeably more worn, like considerably more worn, it wore the whole corner off the outer lugs. With amazing traction, comes amazing tire wear!!
One of the trans skid bolts had come loose and the Nutsert threads were a little boogered. This was probably actually a result of me stripping out a bolt at this location during my clutch change. I ran a tap up through the nutsert to clean up the threads and bought and installed a new M12 bolt and it seems to be good.
My steering stabilizer got contacted and spun and it was making contact with the Track Bar. Fixed the steering stablizer but the track bar has pretty deep gouge. Not sure if I am going to weld on a reinforcement or buy a new track bar. Plan on going wheeling this weekend, so most likely going to clean it up and watch it.
Drivers side rear wheel lug nuts were all loose. Not sure how that happened, but I was able to spin them all off with my fingers
The most outer and most inner lugs on my tires are noticeably more worn, like considerably more worn, it wore the whole corner off the outer lugs. With amazing traction, comes amazing tire wear!!
I ordered a new Currie track bar from summit in order to get free shipping on some ARB o-rings. Plus it came with a new track bar bolt. Savings and efficiency,Finally got around to doing a post Moab inspection of my Jeep.
One of the trans skid bolts had come loose and the Nutsert threads were a little boogered. This was probably actually a result of me stripping out a bolt at this location during my clutch change. I ran a tap up through the nutsert to clean up the threads and bought and installed a new M12 bolt and it seems to be good.
My steering stabilizer got contacted and spun and it was making contact with the Track Bar. Fixed the steering stablizer but the track bar has pretty deep gouge. Not sure if I am going to weld on a reinforcement or buy a new track bar. Plan on going wheeling this weekend, so most likely going to clean it up and watch it.
Drivers side rear wheel lug nuts were all loose. Not sure how that happened, but I was able to spin them all off with my fingers
The most outer and most inner lugs on my tires are noticeably more worn, like considerably more worn, it wore the whole corner off the outer lugs. With amazing traction, comes amazing tire wear!!
OP
$4 o-rings cost you $400 in order to save $15 in shipping, it makes total sense to me and I would have done the same.
OP
Loaded up and ready to head to Hot Springs to meet up with some Louisiana TJ bretheren.
OP
Quick update:
Rode Hot Springs with the Louisiana crew Memorial day and other than a sliced tire on the first trail of the day, the Jeep did well and there was no damage or needed repairs. I ran my spare the rest of the day which worked fine. The tire was sliced on the sidewall and I purchased the tire from 4WP with the warranty, so I took it back to 4WP on June 1 and as of today (6-29-21) 4WP still has not replaced the tire, they state there is no tires available due to Covid.
On 6-26-21, I did a day trip to Hawk Pride and sheared off all 5 wheel studs on the rear DS axle, see the write up on that trip here:
Hawk Pride day trip
It was a hard day on very slick rocks (especially on Merlin) and the Jeep took a good beating, but still performed well. Post ride inspection shows the following:
-Body damage on the rear pass side fender and the front pass side fender (see above Hawk pride link for pictures).
-Currie Drag Link is bent, pushing the Tie Rod clamp back into the steering stabilizer (which was punctured and all oil drained).
-Rear Axle Passenger side Upper Control Arm Bracket is cracked (this is the last remaining OEM axle side control arm bracket left, all others have been previously replaced).
-Need to inspect the axle flange which had sheared the wheel studs to ensure it is straight and then replace the wheel studs.
-The wheel studs on the other rear axle (passenger shaft) look like the threads are flattened, so I will replace those wheel studs and all the lug nuts on all 4 wheels.
-While on Merlin I had some thumping coming from the trans tunnel area, when the front axle was articulated, so I need to investigate that.
-Normal undercarriage scrapes and dings, but nothing looked like it was of concern.
I am basically using this post as a checklist for the above items which I will have to get fixed before heading on my next trip in a few weeks.
I already pulled the rear axle out in prep to install the new upper control arm bracket. Since I will need to pull the one axle back out to reinstall my chromoly axle after I replace the wheel studs, I am also going to go ahead and flip the calipers in prep to doing a shock outbd this winter. I already have the upper control arm mount and I have the BMB wizard brackets for the parking brake when flipped.
The good thing about a Dana 44 is that it is pretty easy to pull and man handle yourself, throw it on a few furniture movers and you can wheel it all over with no issues. That lightness is also what limits the Dana 44.
Rode Hot Springs with the Louisiana crew Memorial day and other than a sliced tire on the first trail of the day, the Jeep did well and there was no damage or needed repairs. I ran my spare the rest of the day which worked fine. The tire was sliced on the sidewall and I purchased the tire from 4WP with the warranty, so I took it back to 4WP on June 1 and as of today (6-29-21) 4WP still has not replaced the tire, they state there is no tires available due to Covid.
On 6-26-21, I did a day trip to Hawk Pride and sheared off all 5 wheel studs on the rear DS axle, see the write up on that trip here:
Hawk Pride day trip
It was a hard day on very slick rocks (especially on Merlin) and the Jeep took a good beating, but still performed well. Post ride inspection shows the following:
-Body damage on the rear pass side fender and the front pass side fender (see above Hawk pride link for pictures).
-Currie Drag Link is bent, pushing the Tie Rod clamp back into the steering stabilizer (which was punctured and all oil drained).
-Rear Axle Passenger side Upper Control Arm Bracket is cracked (this is the last remaining OEM axle side control arm bracket left, all others have been previously replaced).
-Need to inspect the axle flange which had sheared the wheel studs to ensure it is straight and then replace the wheel studs.
-The wheel studs on the other rear axle (passenger shaft) look like the threads are flattened, so I will replace those wheel studs and all the lug nuts on all 4 wheels.
-While on Merlin I had some thumping coming from the trans tunnel area, when the front axle was articulated, so I need to investigate that.
-Normal undercarriage scrapes and dings, but nothing looked like it was of concern.
I am basically using this post as a checklist for the above items which I will have to get fixed before heading on my next trip in a few weeks.
I already pulled the rear axle out in prep to install the new upper control arm bracket. Since I will need to pull the one axle back out to reinstall my chromoly axle after I replace the wheel studs, I am also going to go ahead and flip the calipers in prep to doing a shock outbd this winter. I already have the upper control arm mount and I have the BMB wizard brackets for the parking brake when flipped.
The good thing about a Dana 44 is that it is pretty easy to pull and man handle yourself, throw it on a few furniture movers and you can wheel it all over with no issues. That lightness is also what limits the Dana 44.
OP
While I was pulling the axle shafts out of my rear axle, I felt a clunk, so i opened it up to take a look. I found two screws laying in the bottom of the housing, they were both a little mangled but luckily no damage to the R&P or any bearings. The screws come out of the elocker and I found all the screws (for a spring plate?) to be loose and a gouge in the plate from where it was hitting from the loose screws allowing it to back out.
I have searched online for some sort of parts diagram for the elocker but can't find it, I will try to call eaton tomorrow to see if they can get me the screws or at least tell me thread and pitch and hopefully torque values.
I also got the cracked UCA bracket cut off and ground down, now just have to align the new bracket and burn it in.
Two screws are missing, but all screws are loose, if I push on the plate it moves in and out like it is spring loaded so I don't want to remove the other screws without first tightening a few down, knowing my luck it will spring open and very small parts will go everywhere never to be seen again.
I found this contact info for Eaton Vehicle Product Support; hopefully it works!
NORTH AMERICA
Southfield, MI, United States
Tel: +1-248-226-6200
I also got the cracked UCA bracket cut off and the axle cleaned up, now just got to burn the new bracket on.
I have searched online for some sort of parts diagram for the elocker but can't find it, I will try to call eaton tomorrow to see if they can get me the screws or at least tell me thread and pitch and hopefully torque values.
I also got the cracked UCA bracket cut off and ground down, now just have to align the new bracket and burn it in.
Two screws are missing, but all screws are loose, if I push on the plate it moves in and out like it is spring loaded so I don't want to remove the other screws without first tightening a few down, knowing my luck it will spring open and very small parts will go everywhere never to be seen again.
I found this contact info for Eaton Vehicle Product Support; hopefully it works!
NORTH AMERICA
Southfield, MI, United States
Tel: +1-248-226-6200
I also got the cracked UCA bracket cut off and the axle cleaned up, now just got to burn the new bracket on.
OP
Called Eaton and they were not able to get me the bolts, but he did give me the thread size and pitch and the torque spec. M6x1.0, 17-20 N-M. I asked him if they should have locktite and he said yes, but there is no evidence of locktite on the existing bolts? I will run to my local hardware store to see if they have cap bolts that will work, if not I will see if mcmaster or grainger has them.
I burned on the new UCA bracket, I was done in 5 minutes and was wondering why it was so quick, what did I do wrong! Then I realized that It was because I did all the cutting and prep work yesterday. I tried to straighten the drag link using the winch with the drag link installed, but I was a little scared to pull too hard because I didn't want to break a knuckle, etc.... so I guess I will have to pull the steering and straighten it with a press. I also pulled the front diff cover and inspected the front diff and everything looks good. I searched high and low to try and find what could be making the noise in my transmission tunnel (sounds like a driveshaft making contact when front is articulated) but there is no evidence anywhere of anything rubbing up in that area.
Now I just got to start collecting hardware (cap bolts, wheel studs, new lower shock mount bolts, etc,.,.,,.) and then throw this thing back together.
I burned on the new UCA bracket, I was done in 5 minutes and was wondering why it was so quick, what did I do wrong! Then I realized that It was because I did all the cutting and prep work yesterday. I tried to straighten the drag link using the winch with the drag link installed, but I was a little scared to pull too hard because I didn't want to break a knuckle, etc.... so I guess I will have to pull the steering and straighten it with a press. I also pulled the front diff cover and inspected the front diff and everything looks good. I searched high and low to try and find what could be making the noise in my transmission tunnel (sounds like a driveshaft making contact when front is articulated) but there is no evidence anywhere of anything rubbing up in that area.
Now I just got to start collecting hardware (cap bolts, wheel studs, new lower shock mount bolts, etc,.,.,,.) and then throw this thing back together.
jeepster1407
TJ Enthusiast
Like you I also have contact with my drag link an steering stabilizer so I suspect my drag link is a little bent to. After you pull and straighten your drag link can you show me how close it is to the SS at full lock? I bought my Currie setup a few years back and don't recall how large the gap was there before.
OP
"When" I get it straight I can post a picture with the spacing to the SS bracket, but I removed and tossed the SS and don't plan on reinstalling another at this time. My biggest issue is that I had the clamp facing aft and it dug right into the SS when the Drag Link bent and it made contact. Make sure your TRE clamp is not facing aft.
jeepster1407
TJ Enthusiast
Roger that. My clamp is in no way hitting this go around. That happened already so I made sure to position it better.
OP
I slit the sidewall of one of my Goodyear Wrangler MT/Rs on Memorial day and the tire was bought with the 4wp warranty. Well it has been over a month and a new tire is still on back order so 4wp says my options are to wait another 6 months to unknown OR take a substitute MT Baja MTZp3. Since I need a tire before July 22 I told them to go ahead and order the MTZp3. We'll see if 4wp comes through over the next week and see how the MTZp3 differs from the MT/R.
Rear locker is fixed and back together, rear axle is buttoned up and back under the jeep. Test drive shows that everything is functional.
Got a bad shimmy in front end on road but everything looks good with dry steer check and quick check of toe in, assuming it is just out of balance tires and there is no dampening since steering stabilizer is not installed.
Rear locker is fixed and back together, rear axle is buttoned up and back under the jeep. Test drive shows that everything is functional.
Got a bad shimmy in front end on road but everything looks good with dry steer check and quick check of toe in, assuming it is just out of balance tires and there is no dampening since steering stabilizer is not installed.