Teraflex free spin bearing went out at 60 mph

[AndyG]

In my world, unless that is the last remaining spindle for that application, that one goes in the trash. I don't think I could save it and not sure I'd be confident in it if I could.

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Absolutely. And I perked up a while back when you first commented on this TJ, because I knew if you said something it was valuable.

Teraflex is Is checking for a spindle.

According to them this is a 50 series, which is Dana 44 internals in 60 housing, the axles were built for this passenger side configuration, as well as the atlas. The newest it can be is 2005.

Thankfully the stub axle is ok, but it may be a rare bird.

I ‘ll know soon if this project is a lost cause or worth pursuing.

 

[AndyG]

Well here is where I’m at-

...could be as long as three months on the particular spindle, thankfully they exist. I’ve committed to 1 , may get 2 or 3 ....

The short term plan is to have this one built up, machined back to spec and reassemble and rebuild the right side and go through the drivers side completely, service both differentials and run it easy til i see where it is.

if it seems to be solid, redo the drag link and tie rod and get the ends to 7/8-18.

At that point it isn’t going to get any better until it gets control arms and a rear track bar, a rear sway bar , and all that dialed in.

Then it needs a belly skid.

I like the engine fitment and the stock function and appearance, the nice body, interior and frame-

It has no obvious history of breakage, which is normally evident by new parts
which makes me feel better...and the only thing left that is freaky to my knowledge are the custom length Dana 44 axles for the passenger side drive line set up. Teraflex will make them, im sure it would not be cheap. The short of it is I dont need them now, but the ramifications of breaking one and will that undermine my confidence in it.

 

[Wildman]

It has no obvious history of breakage, which is normally evident by new parts
which makes me feel better...and the only thing left that is freaky to my knowledge are the custom length Dana 44 axles for the passenger side drive line set up. Teraflex will make them, im sure it would not be cheap. The short of it is I dont need them now, but the ramifications of breaking one and will that undermine my confidence in it.

I would take measurements and contact RCV and see what they want for a set of custom axles. For a Dana 44 size shaft they warranty them for up to 40" tires.

What size are the u-joints in the axle shafts? Are they

The Dana 44 TTB and Dana 44HD TTB both use Spicer 760x (formerly 297x) u-joints which are 2.188 inches wide, and the Dana 50 TTB uses a Spicer 799x (1350) u-joint which is 3.622 inches wide (see image below) Most people are familiar with the locking hubs on Dana 44 axles. The Dana 44 TTB uses the same locking hubs, except for some 1987-1988 models.

So are they the 760x (297x) or maybe the 799x? That will help a little in what shafts may or may not work.

Next give us lengths of both inner shafts & a stub shaft.

 

[AndyG]

I would take measurements and contact RCV and see what they want for a set of custom axles. For a Dana 44 size shaft they warranty them for up to 40" tires.

What size are the u-joints in the axle shafts? Are they

So are they the 760x (297x) or maybe the 799x? That will help a little in what shafts may or may not work.

Next give us lengths of both inner shafts & a stub shaft.

Didn’t plan to pull axles unless i’m going past something I shouldn’t ...plus i can see the logic of working ahead with RCV.....also is there a measurement on the caps that will answer the u joint question...they appear bigger than my 03 Rubi Axle u joints -

thanks
Andy

 

[Wildman]

Didn’t plan to pull axles unless i’m going past something I shouldn’t ...plus i can see the logic of working ahead with RCV.....also is there a measurement on the caps that will answer the u joint question...they appear bigger than my 03 Rubi Axle u joints -

thanks
Andy

Well you have the right side open so the shaft should be able to come out? That would get us started on figuring stuff out.
Either RCV or other aftermarket axle companies will cut you shafts. I was just saying instead of going with Teraflex.
I'd get the measurements so you can know if any off the shelf lengths will fit or if you need custom. Also pulling the shafts will give you a chance to inspect the u-joints better and make sure they are ok. And get a spline count to help identify what locker you have.
All just good info to have for future needs.

Measure that distance between caps on the u-joint as that will get us started.

Edit:
You're down this far also so now is a good time to look at your ball joints.

 

[AndyG]

Well you have the right side open so the shaft should be able to come out? That would get us started on figuring stuff out.
Either RCV or other aftermarket axle companies will cut you shafts. I was just saying instead of going with Teraflex.
I'd get the measurements so you can know if any off the shelf lengths will fit or if you need custom. Also pulling the shafts will give you a chance to inspect the u-joints better and make sure they are ok. And get a spline count to help identify what locker you have.
All just good info to have for future needs.

Measure that distance between caps on the u-joint as that will get us started.

Edit:
You're down this far also so now is a good time to look at your ball joints.

Makes sense....the ball joints are all new. Actually they are the only part i can see has been replaced from the build 8000 miles ago.

 

[Blackjack]

What does the hub look like? Did the race spin in it?

 

[AndyG]

What does the hub look like? Did the race spin in it?

Not that I can tell.

hub is easy to get , will be keeping one one on the shelf if i hang on to this and wheel it. The outer went ...Totally destroyed the selector mechanism.

 

[mrblaine]

What does the hub look like? Did the race spin in it?

Glad you showed up, anyway to save that spindle?

 

[Blackjack]

Not that I can tell.

hub is easy to get , will be keeping one one on the shelf if i hang on to this and wheel it. The outer went ...Totally destroyed the selector mechanism.

From the looks of that spindle I would look at that where the races ride very closely. As bad as that outer bearing is there is a very good chance the race has spun too.

 

[Blackjack]

Glad you showed up, anyway to save that spindle?

Well I have made worse get home with a file and emery tape. The only way I know of would be to spend a chunk of change having it spray arced and turned back down. And I would still worry about it cracking at the outer bearing journal with all the heat damage that it looks like it has.

 

[mrblaine]

Well I have made worse get home with a file and emery tape. The only way I know of would be to spend a chunk of change having it spray arced and turned back down. And I would still worry about it cracking at the outer bearing journal with all the heat damage that it looks like it has.

That was my assessment but I wasn't sure if I missed anything. I've got them home by wrapping the outer threads past the broken spindle nut with bailing wire and setting that in place with 5 minute JB Weld. It was already trashed, hard to trash it more.

 

[AndyG]

Cool , the races had to be knocked out, the inner bearing was still intact, everything outer was molten carnage.

I took it back off, sent it to be built up and machined so its mobile for the shop to do the new radiator, and then start sorting out the steering and control arms if I’m keeping it.

I put my hard top on it from my 03 so i’m ready for the Smokies this weekend and moved the soft top to the 03.

 

[Blackjack]

That was my assessment but I wasn't sure if I missed anything. I've got them home by wrapping the outer threads past the broken spindle nut with bailing wire and setting that in place with 5 minute JB Weld. It was already trashed, hard to trash it more.

Sounds like it would have been a good time to have a ready welder.

 

[Wildman]

Cool , the races had to be knocked out, the inner bearing was still intact, everything outer was molten carnage.

I took it back off, sent it to be built up and machined so its mobile for the shop to do the new radiator, and then start sorting out the steering and control arms if I’m keeping it.

View attachment 251802

I put my hard top on it from my 03 so i’m ready for the Smokies this weekend and moved the soft top to the 03.

What is wrong with the radiator? What are you having built? Do you have a price? Getting a radiator for the V-8 isn't hard just have to tell me your price point.

 

[AndyG]

What is wrong with the radiator? What are you having built? Do you have a price? Getting a radiator for the V-8 isn't hard just have to tell me your price point.

A buddy thinks the root problem is it was bolted on hard, no allowance for flex and that stressed it.

It won’t overheat but allows a tiny amount of steam to come out and that has the belt raising cain/squealing . It appears it was welded once.

We got one from Summit Racing, and what i noticed is it has about 2.5 of flat mounting surface on each side, and that is going to help as far as mounting options I think...was afraid we would have to add tabs. It was $240.00

Engine doesnt leak a drop of oil, seep or anything...the plugs looked great and were gapped perfectly. Its a 95-97 5.9 so to me its in the sweet spot on technology...has the tall intake and distributor.

It seems that engine is the V8 equivalent of a 4.0- torquey, heavy and drinks fuel, makes bad numbers...but its gives you more by sheer volume.

I’ve wheeled it a little already, its fun but in its’ current state isn’t as precise and agile as a stock Rubicon. One thing it may be lacking is the turning radius...but for now I’m not worried about all that. Its too far out of the norm to evaluate its’ potential.

What I’m happy about is I’m learning a lot and I can also apply some of what I have learned on here possibly.
What I may learn ultimately is not to buy something like this again, but for me I saw it as a once in a lifetime opportunity to own a V8 jeep at a very low real cost ( think the price of an SE)
once you factor in what I didn’t have to buy in exchange for the Rubi I gave up.

What concerns me is the odd axles and have I got my hands on something with a near obsolete drive train, or at least close to a one off set up. Even the Atlas is reverse built and that took some playing with to figure out.

 

[AndyG]

you having built

As far as built, nothing-

it’s -

radiator, flush and service

fix the spindle or at least short term til Teraflex gets the new ones in

Go through both hubs

service the differentials

make sure the brakes are good

charge the A/C

tidy up any wiring, new belt , hoses

plan the steering and order parts

,
make the front track bar I have on it a better mount at the axle and possibly drop a link

Then from there shake it down a little, and decide if its a keeper or needs a new home. If I keep it, It will mean ordering some spare axles and spindles and deciding the control arm brand and set up.

 

[Wildman]

Okay ya sorry helps if I READ and comprehend too.

So the 5.9 has a issue with cooling so anything and everything you can do to help it cool is a good thing.

Some things to check and to pay attention to:

1) The magnum engines have a history of cracking the stock cylinder heads around the valve seats. This are one head from the 5.2 that came out of my Jeep.

2) The magnum engines have a problem with the plenum gasket on the kegger intake manifold blowing. If you start to use oil or notice your fuel mileage to go down this is a good indication. One way to tell is to look down the throttle body with the blades fully open and if you see oil on the bottom of the intake this is a good indication it's blown.
Hughes Engines sells a plate to fix this or you can swap to a different intake manifold.

3) Even stock engines can benefit from a tune from someplace like Flyin Ryan Performance. This is as long as you have a stock Dodge PCM.

4) Like the Jeep the timing is not controled by turning the distributor but by the PCM. Turing the distributor changes the fuel sync & you need a scanner that can read this to set it or a Dodge scanner but most dealerships don't use or have the one needed anymore. For most that get into working on these engines the Snap On MT2500 works great for this.
If your fuel sync is off it can make the engine run bad.

5) Just like the 4.0 the magnum engines are finicky about the type of spark plugs used. And the same with sensors.

If you look in my build thread I posted a lot of the information about the magnum engines.

I'm sure there is more and as I remember stuff I'll try to pass it on.

 

[AndyG]

Okay ya sorry helps if I READ and comprehend too.

So the 5.9 has a issue with cooling so anything and everything you can do to help it cool is a good thing.

Some things to check and to pay attention to:

1) The magnum engines have a history of cracking the stock cylinder heads around the valve seats. This are one head from the 5.2 that came out of my Jeep.

View attachment 251811


View attachment 251812

2) The magnum engines have a problem with the plenum gasket on the kegger intake manifold blowing. If you start to use oil or notice your fuel mileage to go down this is a good indication. One way to tell is to look down the throttle body with the blades fully open and if you see oil on the bottom of the intake this is a good indication it's blown.
Hughes Engines sells a plate to fix this or you can swap to a different intake manifold.

3) Even stock engines can benefit from a tune from someplace like Flyin Ryan Performance. This is as long as you have a stock Dodge PCM.

4) Like the Jeep the timing is not controled by turning the distributor but by the PCM. Turing the distributor changes the fuel sync & you need a scanner that can read this to set it or a Dodge scanner but most dealerships don't use or have the one needed anymore. For most that get into working on these engines the Snap On MT2500 works great for this.
If your fuel sync is off it can make the engine run bad.

5) Just like the 4.0 the magnum engines are finicky about the type of spark plugs used. And the same with sensors.

If you look in my build thread I posted a lot of the information about the magnum engines.

I'm sure there is more and as I remember stuff I'll try to pass it on.

Thanks man.

 

[Wildman]

Thanks man.

I said I'd try to help you out when I could. I ain't a wiz on some things but I do have some knowledge about the magnum engines.