The Weekend Fun Build

fuse

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
706
Location
San Diego, CA
"If we got another car, a Jeep would be OK." — my wife.

That was it. I had permission, and I figured I'd better move quickly. So I picked up this 2005 Sport:

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The Jeep had one owner who had racked up 130K miles using it as a DD in SoCal. No scuffs or rust on the underbody, and the axle seals were good. Nothing worse than the usual minor leaks from the engine.

Pretty standard configuration for a 2005 Sport:
  • 4.0 I6
  • 42RLE Transmission
  • NV231 Transfer Case
  • Dana 30 Front
  • Dana 44 Rear with LSD
  • 3.73 gears
  • Soft top
  • AC
  • AM/FM/CD with subwoofer and sound bar
The PO had upsized to 31x10.50r15 tires, but left the original 30" spare. He had also upgraded to Rancho RS9000 shocks, installed a Spiderweb Shade, and added an aftermarket amp, 9" subwoofer, and iPod input to the stock radio.

My initial plans were to use the Jeep to shuttle mountain bikes up fire road to remote trailheads and to do some light offroading. My wife figured she could use the Jeep to get to hiking trails, which is why the automatic transmission was a requirement. Also, AC was necessary so we could bring the dog.

The only major issue on day one was a leaking power steering hose, which got immediately fixed.

The first upgrade was a Draw-Tite hitch, which was necessary so I could use the bike rack. This was a mistake because it caused clearance issues with the tailpipe
and eventually was responsible for ground clearance issues.

IMAG0326 (1).jpg


No issues with the bike rack itself. It was just the hitch mounted beneath the stock bumper that was a problem.

I really wanted hard top instead of soft top, and the old soft top was really crispy from being in the sun and the windows were badly scratched and fogged. So I got a new top from Camper King since their prices are low and they're just down the road.

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I swapped out the milk jugs for stubby bumper caps.

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... and that front bumper is done! The stock bumper looks so darn good with the stubby ends. And it's still totally functional and lightweight. I figure I'll keep it like that until there's a really good reason to replace it.

Added handles for the wife:

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And the Rugged Ridge dash tray and phone mount:

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That was a cheap and easy upgrade, but it's one of the best things I did. It allows me to use my phone as an OBD2 monitor, navigation system, and audio source for the stereo. I also use the mount on top for a little GoPro Session cube camera to get video of trail runs.

Like many new owners of old Jeeps, I felt like the ride was way too harsh, and that led me to look at the suspension since my tire pressure was already reasonably low. While checking things out, I started to wonder if my front springs were sagging. (See https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/sagging-stock-front-springs.11772/) The springs definitely were sagging after 130K miles, and replacing them with Moog 3226/3227 springs restored the stock ride height. (See https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/stock-spring-swap-walk-thru-with-pics.12655/)

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While replacing the springs, I did a bump stop check (See https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/bump-stop-check-walk-thru-with-pics.12883/) and learned that the RS9000x front shocks are just a little too long when fully compressed, and that I needed a little bump stop extension to protect them from full compression. At the same time, I learned that my 31x10.50R15 tires rub slightly at full bump, and that they rub hard on the spring perch at full flex with any amount of steering. That goes counter to the prevailing wisdom that 31s fit fine with stock wheels and suspension.

I replaced the old coil spring isolators when I replaced the springs, and that made a noticeable improvement in ride quality. That and the thread about control arm bushings (https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...composition-affect-ride-quality-or-nvh.13928/) got me thinking about the other worn out rubber on the Jeep.

IMG_20181114_144950.jpg


Just look at those cracked LCA bushings! So I swapped the OEM control arms for a set of Moog control arms, but just one location at a time. That let me see how much the control arm bushings affected ride quality. In my experience, front lower control arms make the most impact on ride quality, followed by rear lower control arms, and lastly the upper control arms. But swapping the old front LCAs for the new ones was like night and day.

After having success with the control arms, I figured I'd replace the old, cracked body mounts with a new set of Crown body mounts. That improved ride quality a little too.

Then my wife hooked me up for Xmas:

IMG_20181225_102351.jpg


Somewhere along the line I added a Uniden Pro 520XL CB with Arizona Rocky Mounts for the CB and the antenna with an add-on NMO mount for a future Ham rig.

After that, the Jeep had been running well and doing a great job on the trails. Until I overlooked a rock on the exit from this waterfall and crunched the tailpipe into the hitch.

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You can see it right there — the bolt-on flare for the tailpipe hanging right below that bolt-on hitch. Just waiting for the right rock to come along. That whole setup had been annoying me since day one. And I figured that since the hitch was in the way and I managed to destroy the tailpipe (it got a minor dent), I needed an upgrade.

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So that whole mess came off and I mounted a Dirtworx rear bumper and a low-profile tailpipe flare that tucks in nicely. While I was at it, I added the Poison Spyder frame tie-ins. They might not be necessary, but I figured I'd rather distribute the load on the bike rack as widely as possible. Also, they're really sweet looking little bits of steel and nicely made!

IMG_20190718_134334.jpg


With the rock solid Dirtworks bumper and the frame tie-ins, the bike rack is now way more stable than it ever was on the bolt-on hitch. It also sits a lot higher — good for ground clearance, bad for tailgate clearance.

I had been kicking around the idea of adding a winch for a long time, but really got serious about getting one when I found that there were some reasonable deals on used Warn PowerPlants with on-board air. I had been airing up my tires with a high-volume bike pump, which worked reasonably well but was a lot of effort. Then I got this.

IMG_20190703_180428.jpg


I also scored the 100' 3/8" Spydura line and fairlead off of CL new-in-box for a song! Fog lights got relocated outward by a couple inches to make room for that beast.

It's turning out to be a pretty good setup overall. Good enough to lead a couple of new Jeepers around the local trails.

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But especially with the added weight of the winch, the stock suspension isn't leaving me much room to get over obstacles. And that's the reason for this thread.

It's time for some real upgrades!
 
So, the plan is to slowly build the Jeep around 31s as budget allows while leaving the door open to 33s in the future.

Why not 33s now? Wheels and tires alone break the budget. I'd want to regear for 33s and I want to add lockers when I regear. Also, I don't know that I need 33s. Seems like 31s might be enough for a while. So I'll set that aside for now and think about it again when it's clear that I need it and the piggy bank is fatter.

Here's the rough plan although the sequence of upgrades could change. The idea is to go slow and give myself time to consider where I want to go next.

2-2.5" Lift

This seems to be the first priority based on the limitations I'm running into on the trails I've been on. I know some people say to do lockers first, but I looking at the obstacles around here that require lockers, I can't imagine getting over them without better ground clearance.

OME 2933/2942 springs - I did the math and based on my current estimated corner weights these springs should get me a little more than 2" of lift and leave the Jeep more level than it is now. However, I can add leveling spacers if needed:

OME 10mm Front Trim Spacer OMEJGF10
OME 10mm Rear Trim Spacer OMEWTJPR10

Rancho RS55239/RS55241 shocks - Seems like everyone who has these or the OME Nitrochargers is happy, and the Ranchos are much cheaper. On paper, the lengths are good for the range of lift I have planned and shouldn't require too much additional bump stop.

JKS Adjustable Front Track Bar OGS126 - This looks like the right choice since I can't go for one of the more expensive options. It's really not that much more expensive than the cheaper adjustable track bars and it gets some respect here.

OME Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket FKWTJ02 - This is a cheap fix for rear axle alignment along with the lift. I hear it may require additional bump stop to deal with clearance issues.

Bump stop extensions - Drilled out hockey pucks for the front. Zone extensions or similar for the rear.

Steering Upgrade

I figure I should do this before adding lockers, since there's already one obstacle I know of that takes a lot of wheel scrub to get up. Seems like that could put some stress on the tie rod and ends, and this is a cheap and easy upgrade. I may even do it at the same time as the lift and only have to do the alignment once.

Seems like the PO replaced the drag link recently while dealing with DW, so it looks like I just need the tie rod.

Moog Tie Rod End ES3096L
Moog Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve ES2079S
Moog Tie Rod DS1312

Rock Sliders

Getting into the rocks with 31s and a 2" lift means I want to protect the tub. I haven't decided what to go for here, but the excellent write-up by @JMT is my guide. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rock-sliders-rocker-guards-guide.8704/

Steps are a must or my wife will hate the Jeep, and we don't want that.

Regear and Lockers

For the 4.0L and 42RLE with 31s, it looks like 4.88 is the right gear ratio. I might consider going straight to 5.13 gears, which only seems a little too deep for 31s. But 5.13 would make sense if I get to this point and I'm thinking 33s are a possibility.

I'm leaning toward the Eaton ELockers front and rear, but I'll do some more research.

Suspension Upgrade

This is definitely "nice to have" rather than required, but I could upgrade to JJ-type control arms for better articulation and as preparation for future upgrades. Also, I don't think I would necessarily have to do all this at once.

JKS J-FLEX Front Lower Control Arms 1650
JKS J-Flex Rear Upper Control Arms 1655

JKS J-FLEX Front Upper Control Arms 1652
JKS J-FLEX Rear Lower Control Arms 1650

JKS Rear Adjustable Track Bar OGS151 - This is probably the first priority if it would let me ditch the rear track bar bracket and reduce the rear bump stop.

After all that, I should have a nice rig on 31s that I can have fun with for a while. And I should be a in a good place if I ever want to deal with the additional lift, driveline, and other issues that come along with 33s.

For now, though, I'm waiting on the money to come in before I pull the trigger on the 2" lift kit.
 
Sounds like a good plan of attack. To this day, I still kind of regret moving up to 33's, so don't take that upgrade lightly. I'll wheeled the piss out of my rig with an OME lift and 31's first 5 years of ownership.
Thanks! It's the comments you and others here made about 31s that make me think I might stay there indefinitely.

But that just makes the gear selection when it comes time to regear a little harder. Seems like 4.88 would be the sweet spot for 31s and 5.13 would be just a little too deep. But if I could stick with 31s as long as you did, 4.88s would be the way to go.
 
Regearing is a tough decision as it's not an easy or cheap job to redo. I wish I would have wen't 4.88 when I went 4.56 (5spd). I'd be happier now (I like low gears and don't do much interstate time) and it would leave me a better opportunity for moving up to 35's if I'd like. Someday I'd like to play with the big boys on some of the gnarlier trails that require 35" tires (I'd really like to do that now but my wallet and Jeep say otherwise).
 
Regearing is a tough decision as it's not an easy or cheap job to redo. I wish I would have wen't 4.88 when I went 4.56 (5spd). I'd be happier now (I like low gears and don't do much interstate time) and it would leave me a better opportunity for moving up to 35's if I'd like. Someday I'd like to play with the big boys on some of the gnarlier trails that require 35" tires (I'd really like to do that now but my wallet and Jeep say otherwise).
At least I have some time to figure this out. I do spend a fair amount of time on the highway, but I'm getting used to driving 65 in the slow lane.

The last trail run I did, we met up outside of town and planned to caravan with the group over the mountains to the trailhead. I had to let everyone know that the YJ in the group and my TJ were going slow up the mountain. One of the JK drivers said, "I know. I go slow too. I get a little shimmy when I go over 80." :ROFLMAO:
 
The parts are starting to arrive for the 2" lift. I managed to snag a JKS rear track bar at a reasonable discount, so I'm jumping ahead a bit on the build plan and skipping the OME track bar bracket. While I'm waiting for the track bar and shocks to show up, I started doing some prep.

I made up some 1" bump stop extensions out of hockey pucks.

IMG_20190825_133132.jpg


The bolt is the same 1/2"-13 spec as the JKS bump stop extensions, so I could swap those in at some point if I ever wanted to. The Grade 8 bolt may be overkill, but it's all the orange hardware store had in stock.

I also picked up the Moog tie rod parts for the ZJ Tie Rod Conversion, and in preparation I figured I would check the toe-in on the stock setup. That was a surprise (rear on the left, front on the right):

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IMG_20190825_160458.jpg


That's a difference of 7/16" between front and rear measurements! Total toe-in is 0.8*, which is twice the spec'd maximum.

I haven't had an alignment done since I bought the Jeep last year, and I don't think I've changed anything that would make that much of a difference. The PO did say he had a DW fix, and I wonder if the excessive toe-in was part of the fix or maybe a half-assed alignment that happened at the same time.

On the other hand, I never noticed any steering or handling problems, and I haven't had any DW issues yet. Tread wear on the tires is still even too. So I didn't have any reason to suspect the alignment was off.

I had to put the Jeep back together and put it away for the day yesterday, but I'm going to correct the alignment and drive it to see if I can tell the difference.
 
@fuse Since I am in the middle of my second re-gear. I will pass along my knowledge. Only Do It Once. Its a royal PITA not to mention expensive to regear an axle. Especially twice, I was going to go 5.13 but went with 4.88's and wish I would have went deeper. Now im going 5.38 and redoing both lockers as preventative and I highly recommend going 5.13's and lockers at the same time and doing it once and being done with it. Much less downtime and a lot of shops wont charge for both the gears and locker install. since its the same work to pull the ring gear
 
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@fuse Since I am in the middle of my second re-gear. I will pass along my knowledge. Only Do It Once. Its a royal PITA not to mention expensive to regear an axle. Especially twice, I was going to go 5.13 but went with 4.88's and wish I would have went deeper. Now im going 5.38 and redoing both lockers as preventative and I highly recommend going 5.13's and lockers at the same time and doing it once and being done with it. Much less downtime and a lot of shops wont charge for both the gears and locker install. since its the same work to pull the ring gear

X2 to this. When in doubt, always gear deeper!
 
@fuse Since I am in the middle of my second re-gear. I will pass along my knowledge. Only Do It Once. Its a royal PITA not to mention expensive to regear an axle. Especially twice, I was going to go 5.13 but went with 4.88's and wish I would have went deeper. Now im going 5.38 and redoing both lockers as preventative and I highly recommend going 5.13's and lockers at the same time and doing it once and being done with it. Much less downtime and a lot of shops wont charge for both the gears and locker install. since its the same work to pull the ring gear
X2 to this. When in doubt, always gear deeper!
I hear you guys. @Chris, did I read somewhere that you went with 4.88s with your 33s and wished you had gone with 5.13s?

At this point, I'm thinking I would stick with 31s. And if I just stick with 31s, would I just get 4.88 gears?
 
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I hear you guys. @Chris, did I read somewhere that you went with 4.88s with your 33s and wished you had gone with 5.13s?

At this point, I'm thinking I would stick with 31s. And if I just stick with 31s, would I just get 4.88 gears?

Yes, on my first TJ I went with 4.88 gears with 33s, but I later regretted not going to 5.13.

With 31s the 4.88 would be fine. Just don’t go any bigger with the tires, otherwise you’ll want to re-gear again. 🤣
 
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I hear you guys. @Chris, did I read somewhere that you went with 4.88s with your 33s and wished you had gone with 5.13s?

At this point, I'm thinking I would stick with 31s. And if I just stick with 31s, would I just get 4.88 gears?
I did the exact same thing. I would do everything else first @fuse and see what tire you really wana stick with and what works well for your set up and once you are completely sure. then do the regear because I'd hate to see you do what I did. Regear and then 6 months later you want to switch up the tire size and either need to regear again or your jeep becomes sluggish and you are kickin yourself that you didn't go deeper the first time
 
I did the exact same thing. I would do everything else first @fuse and see what tire you really wana stick with and what works well for your set up and once you are completely sure. then do the regear because I'd hate to see you do what I did. Regear and then 6 months later you want to switch up the tire size and either need to regear again or your jeep becomes sluggish and you are kickin yourself that you didn't go deeper the first time
Well, I have some time to figure this out because at the current rate, the regear is at least a year out. If I do the control arms first, then maybe 18 months.

If I look at it the other way around, would I be unhappy running 5.13s with 31" wheels? Or is that a setup you'd run long term?
 
When in doubt go with the deeper gears! I’m on 31s 5spd and almost went with 4.10s. Last minute I told the shop to throw in 4.56. Sooooo glad I went deeper. I would have regretted it BIG time. Deeper gears on 31s isn’t bad at all. I was just overthinking it. And it’s great off-road crawling.
 
The parts have come in for the lift, and I just managed to get started yesterday.

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The front track bar is out, but I had to pause because I don't have a drill big enough to drill out the track bar frame mount for the JKS install.

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Track bar took me way longer than it should have. No matter how much I messed around with ratchet straps, I couldn't quite get the axle bolt free. So that took a while. And then the cotter pin on the ball joint was in at an awkward angle and I had to mess with that for a bit. Then I couldn't get the ball joint tool in place — just couldn't get it to go in where it was supposed to fit. I did finally get it though.

All it took was some persistence, patience, and a lot of swearing.

I have to say I feel like an amateur compared to some of the builds here, but it's still good. I feel like I know what I'm doing even if it isn't easy. And it's still satisfying to be able to do the install myself.
 
So things are about to get real.

While I'm working on the install, the guys I've been wheeling with have been hatching plans to tackle a couple of Badge of Honor trails up at Big Bear. Gold Mountain and John Bull.

I think I'll be ready for Gold Mountain. Everything I've seen about John Bull says you need 33s or you'll be sitting on the rocks, and lockers are recommended. I'd be on 31s with open diffs. But we're supposed to have an experienced spotter on the run, and that makes all the difference.

This is making me think I need to install armor sooner rather than later. The rock sliders look necessary. And I might even think about adding control arm skids and an engine skid.

I have to think about that while I'm wrenching...