Thoughts on new exhaust system

Boinked

Boinked

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So I have been slowly working on replacing the clutch. I have a laundry list of things that I am going to do along with it. Mainly reseal the transmission and transfer case along with checking the barings. Already ordered a savvy transfer case cable (no brainer there) ... long story short (to late) i think I am going to replace the exhaust system from the manifold back. I was looking at
https://www.extremeterrain.com/crow...6CjaAG37OIzKysC0xZpnSM-VvtMDOqo8aAp8kEALw_wcB
But wondering what other options are out there.
 
A couple of things...
The first is that the package you linked to does include the mini catalytic converters that are attached right behind the exhaust headers and so would not be a "from the manifold back" answer. That said, I have yet to here of a TJ that actually needed to have the mini cat's replaced (I'm sure someone will now chime in with a "I did" :)).

Secondly, is there any reason why you would not want to just take it to an exhaust shop. These shops have access to equipment and parts that would allow them to custom design a system just for your vehicle. They can also assess the condition of the parts in your existing exhaust system and help you decide if replacement is warranted. Right before I got it, the 2006 Rubicon I just purchased had a fairly complete exhaust replacement including everything back of the mini cat's and, according to the receipt I have, it ran $217 including labor. Might be wise to get some estimates.

Third, if you are considering adding any kind of lift, you may want to wait until after you have it on so you can make sure the new exhaust clears everything without issues.
 
@TJ Hunnicutt The 97 and 98 don't have mini cats behind the manifold. In fact we only have two 02 sensors.

@Boinked The crown stuff looks pretty good to me. I was considering that myself, but my exhaust is still surviving. Tell me about the tranfer case cable? I just replaced my clutch, and all of the small parts a couple weeks ago. I took it out weekend before last, and it is popping out of 4 hi. I am not sure if I bent some linkage for the transfer case or if I bent the rooster when my gears didn't match. It acts like that sometimes especially if I am off camber in 4 hi. I don't have any issues anywhere else 4 Lo 2 hi are spot on. I have heard of people putting the cables in, but don't know much about them. Been too busy to check it out. I am thinking it is the linkage because it seems to work ok till the body flexes. I will double check, but if the cable is awesome I may just do that anyway.

Have you ever went to the back of Saguaro Lake through 4 peaks? I heard that it is possible, but I have never done it.
 
The Crown stuff just seems to be generic copies of OEM equipment. It's nothing fancy. No oversized piping, no mandrel bends, no chrome coffee can tips. So it will likely fit well, sound completely stock, and work just fine at a reasonable price. The muffler may not last forever, but my hunch is that it will do just fine.

@ac_ Try getting the t-case into 4 high, then get under the Jeep. You've probably seen where the lever attaches to the shift rod, it is adjustable. Get the Jeep into 4 hi and then loosen that adjuster and nudge the linkage forward and/or back a little at a time, retighten and try again. It sounds like you aren't getting solidly into 4 hi, and when you are off camber, the twist in the chassis is pulling (or pushing) the linkage just enough to disengage it. Sometimes the linkage gets a bit out of whack and keeps the case from fully engaging correctly. Especially if you have any combination of body lift or t-case drop. The best luck I had was just to dissemble all of it, clean and lube the crap out of everything, then just spend some time fine tuning the adjustment.
 
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Another vote for just having the local Ma n' Pop exhaust shop redo it all for you. They can specifically bend sections that need to be bent which will give you clearance all around. There are far to many examples of "I bought X brand exhaust and now my shocks (or driveshaft hit)."

I had a local place rework the tailpipe section of my setup so it cleared my shocks. They cut, bent, and welded it back up. Cost me a whopping $40 and maybe an hours time in the waiting area. Years ago on an old silverado I had a shop put on a true dual exhaust, 2.5" all the way to the 3.5" stainless tips. IIRC that was maybe $275-300. You can spend more than that on something you find online.
 
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-T. said:
The Crown stuff just seems to be generic copies of OEM equipment. It's nothing fancy. No oversized piping, no mandrel bends, no chrome coffee can tips. So it will likely fit well, sound completely stock, and work just fine at a reasonable price. The muffler may not last forever, but my hunch is that it will do just fine.

@ac_ Try getting the t-case into 4 high, then get under the Jeep. You've probably seen where the lever attaches to the shift rod, it is adjustable. Get the Jeep into 4 hi and then loosen that adjuster and nudge the linkage forward and/or back a little at a time, retighten and try again. It sounds like you aren't getting solidly into 4 hi, and when you are off camber, the twist in the chassis is pulling (or pushing) the linkage just enough to disengage it. Sometimes the linkage gets a bit out of whack and keeps the case from fully engaging correctly. Especially if you have any combination of body lift or t-case drop. The best luck I had was just to dissemble all of it, clean and lube the crap out of everything, then just spend some time fine tuning the adjustment.
Click to expand...
Yeah thanks for that. I don't have a body lift or a transfer drop, but I did start having issues after replacing my clutch. I had a hell of a time with all of the linkage when removing the transmission, so it is possible I have a slight bend in the linkage which an adjustment could be the issue for sure.

A couple of months ago, I had a shop build a Ford 8.8 rear end for me, and I opted for 4:56 gears put in at the time of the build. Then I replaced the fronts with 4:56's to match and on my test drive it kept popping out of 4hi. I did this twice before I realized that something wasn't quite right. I pulled it back into my shop and pulled the rear cover and damn if they didn't put 4:88's in. I just installed 4:56's in the front. Long story short I took the Jeep back to the shop and had them replace my fronts to match the 4:88 rears so it is good, but wonder now if I broke something in the transfer case or at least tweaked something.

I will try to adjust it as you suggested, but it is possible I bent something inside the transfer case also. Not to worry though I did put a SYE in last year, so I can dive in and check it out. Just got a big trip coming, so I don't want to do anything to radical before the trip.

Thanks for the advice, I will certainly give that a try.
 
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TJ Hunnicutt said:
A couple of things...
The first is that the package you linked to does include the mini catalytic converters that are attached right behind the exhaust headers and so would not be a "from the manifold back" answer. That said, I have yet to here of a TJ that actually needed to have the mini cat's replaced (I'm sure someone will now chime in with a "I did" :)).
Click to expand...

Had my minis go out on a long road trip. I've also read a few threads where others have had them go out too. I had one without any catalyst material left and the other was almost gone as well.

Think I went with walker evans repalcement for all 3.
 
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BillNyeIsHigh said:
Had my minis go out on a long road trip. I've also read a few threads where others have had them go out too. I had one without any catalyst material left and the other was almost gone as well.
Click to expand...
I'm on my 3rd set of minis. First set were ill fitting and the front driveshaft got into the exhaust pretty hard a couple of times. I think all that banging broke up the catalyst and caused them to clog. Second replacement was a much better fit, (a little more money) but have been great since. Lesson learned.
 
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@ac_ the cable i picked up was. It looks like a pain to install without dropping the skid plate so i figured while I had to out now was the time. The only bad things i heard was they are a pain to get adjusted. But once it is set it shift better than anything else.
83353
 
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TJ Hunnicutt said:
Secondly, is there any reason why you would not want to just take it to an exhaust shop. These shops have access to equipment and parts that would allow them to custom design a system just for your vehicle. They can also assess the condition of the parts in your existing exhaust system and help you decide if replacement is warranted. Right before I got it, the 2006 Rubicon I just purchased had a fairly complete exhaust replacement including everything back of the mini cat's and, according to the receipt I have, it ran $217 including labor. Might be wise to get some estimates.

Third, if you are considering adding any kind of lift, you may want to wait until after you have it on so you can make sure the new exhaust clears everything without issues.
Click to expand...

I could go that route but my exhaust was cut and welded in multiple spots by the PO. Looks like the cat was replaced. Also i broke a hanger on a ride and the pipe hit the drive shaft and now has a deep gouge on a bend. It will eventually fail.

Right now with nothing in the way it would be a perfect time to swap it out. If i did it later i definitely would take it to a shop.
 
Didn't someone else just recently have problems with the crown hitting their front driveshaft? The down turn wasn't sharp enough?

I can't weld for shizz and I get wanting to do it yourself, but your local shop can do it probably cheaper.
 
dbbd1 said:
I can't weld for shizz and I get wanting to do it yourself, but your local shop can do it probably cheaper.
Click to expand...

I was getting quoted upper 500 for the complete exhaust. New cat new muffler. New pipes.

As far as the hitting of the drive shaft it was my hanger broke and the pipe twisted because I didn't get it torqued down tight enough.

I had just replaced my rear main and the next day i went wheeling. I should have drove it and then re torqued it.
 
Yeah that cable looks a lot nicer than the linkage mess that is underneath. Let me know how that works out for you. I may do the same.
 
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ac_ said:
Yeah that cable looks a lot nicer than the linkage mess that is underneath. Let me know how that works out for you. I may do the same.
Click to expand...
I will do. Once i have it you are more than welcome to come by and look at it.
I receive it tomorrow. Might start the installation this weekend. (Depending upon what i find wrong)
 
Boinked said:
@ac_ the cable i picked up was. It looks like a pain to install without dropping the skid plate so i figured while I had to out now was the time. The only bad things i heard was they are a pain to get adjusted. But once it is set it shift better than anything else.
View attachment 83353
Click to expand...
You'll be fine, not a pain, and I did not drop the TCase. Removed the stock linkage in about 30 minutes one evening. Got up the next morning and installed the Savvy, then ate some breakfast about 8:30am.
 
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