This video has been re-done from its original content.
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Tie Rod Flip with BMB Sway Bar Link Brackets
- Thread starter hosejockey61
- Start date
A few things for you. First, no need to pre-heat the inner C, it is a forging made of steel, not cast at all.
The raised mount is exactly 1" higher than the stocker. If one has the stocker still, use it to locate the new one. Clamp a piece of flat bar to the side of the existing mount, clamp the new mount to the side of the flat bar. Raise it up and down slightly to line up the profile on the side that touches the inner C for the best fit. Tack the lower and rear edges. Once those are tacked, then put the gusset in and tack it to hold the mount from moving while it is welded.
If that is you in the video, stop tacking shit with your eyes closed. Get the hood on and use it or pay for it later when you can't see very well.
OP
Thanks for the insight on it not being cast. Research on JK inner C gussets showed that they needed to be heated. I assumed TJ's were the same. Or are JKs forged too? Edit: Nevermind, found they are forged too. Thanks for the correction.
My stock sway bar links were already removed . I did use my old axle as a guide for placement.
No excuse on hood. Thanks for that.
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Thanks for the video as I am about to do this mod myself. Was curious about the pre-heating.
I have seen both split and non-split inserts. Is one better than the other?
I have seen both split and non-split inserts. Is one better than the other?
Another thing to watch for on the insert is to make sure the end doesn't extend past the bottom face of the knuckle. Shorten the insert as necessary so that the insert and knuckle are clamped together by the tie rod tapered stud and nut.
Thanks. They used to be cut out in the front section which looked a fair bit better. Gerald installed a set and on the first trip out, bent both of them inward. I tossed that batch and had them redone with the hole removed. Later I got the opportunity to work on the rig and could clearly see marks in the holes from someone using them with ratchet straps to hold the rig in place on the trailer.
OP
OP
I already stripped the all the brackets from my axle prior to installing the BMB brackets. I used my old axle as a reference using this technique.
Okay thanks.
I believe I once read if you used the split insert not to weld it as it needs to be able to expand and grip the inside of the hole.
OP
Inner C is the same on a TJ 30 as TJ 44 so even though the listing says dana 30 that should work on a TJ 44 as well right?
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I only got a brief look at it before I had to take off. It did look correct and seated. I originally was going to put the castle nut back on but it wouldn't go far enough to expose the cotter pin hole so I changed it out for the nylock nut that came in the bag with the insert. I'll take a pic and send it to you.
That is why I have my own inserts made and counterbore the shoulder.
Should the insert itself be tapered instead of straight (reamed (drilled))? It seems that it would allow for a tighter tolerance opposed to a reamed hole since it's unlikely to get a press fit hole without a machine shop.