Tie rod upgrade

Jeepers

Jeepers

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I've seen here and there about a tie rod bar (I believe it's a tie rod bar, correct me if I'm wrong) has anyone down it before? Is it a exact bolt on upgrade or are there any modifications you need to do ? Is there a specific year zj or a better year to get tie rod bar? Do you need the tie rod end that attaches to the Pittman arm to be for the zj or tj to match up with the threading of the drag link. Plan on replacing majority of front end steering components so may as well upgrade as well. Thanks for all your help in advance, sorry if my questions were worded weird or wrong, haven't done this before so I pretty much understand how to do it but no hands on experience doing this.

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You meant to say the "tie rod".

This thread will answer all your questions as to what the best option(s) are for upgrading your tie rod bar / steering:
What is the best steering for my Jeep Wrangler TJ?

In summary, the best option out there for 99% of us is the Currie Currectlync. The downside to this Currie setup is that it requires at least 2" of lift (preferably more) in order to run properly. So if you have under 2" of lift, you don't want to go this route. It's also pretty expensive (but you get what you pay for, trust me). I run this setup and can't even begin to tell you how high quality it is.

It fits exactly like factory and probably takes an hour tops to install (mine took less). In addition to that, it keeps the factory style steering setup and won't give you any adverse side effects that you'll get with some of those other high steer setups.

The second best option (and undoubtedly the cheaper option) would be to upgrade to the ZJ tie rod, or purchase the Crown HD steering kit (which includes the ZJ tie rod as well as a new factory drag link). Both of those options bolt right in, utilize the beefier ZJ tie rod (with the stock drag link), and are definitely stronger than the stock steering setup.
 
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Thanks so much, I'll def read into this, as far as I know there outta no after market lift but several people thought I had a factory lift because mine does seem to set up just a smidge from other stock jeeps.... and yes that's what I meant to say, that's what I get for not proof reading and relying on swipe/ auto correct

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Measure your front and rear coils from lower perch to coil spring isolator to find out if you have lift.

Stock front and rear are 12" and 8" respectively.
 
Chris said:
You meant to say the "tie rod".

This thread will answer all your questions as to what the best option(s) are for upgrading your tie rod bar / steering:
What is the best steering for my Jeep Wrangler TJ?

In summary, the best option out there for 99% of us is the Currie Currectlync. The downside to this Currie setup is that it requires at least 2" of lift (preferably more) in order to run properly. So if you have under 2" of lift, you don't want to go this route. It's also pretty expensive (but you get what you pay for, trust me). I run this setup and can't even begin to tell you how high quality it is.

It fits exactly like factory and probably takes an hour tops to install (mine took less). In addition to that, it keeps the factory style steering setup and won't give you any adverse side effects that you'll get with some of those other high steer setups.

The second best option (and undoubtedly the cheaper option) would be to upgrade to the ZJ tie rod, or purchase the Crown HD steering kit (which includes the ZJ tie rod as well as a new factory drag link). Both of those options bolt right in, utilize the beefier ZJ tie rod (with the stock drag link), and are definitely stronger than the stock steering setup.
Click to expand...

Hey Chris the Currie system works at 1". I am running it at that height.
 
For Currie Correctlync...

NOTE: This unit is designed to be used on vehicles with 4" of lift. It can be used on vehicles with less lift, but the vehicle must have a minimum of a 2" bump stop (over stock). Also, on vehicles with no lift, 2 of the tie rod ends may need be trimmed to achieve proper adjustment.
 
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AOR said:
and/or trim some of the TR thread off for zero lift.
Click to expand...
NOW we're getting some place. :) If I understand your comment correctly, @AOR, the Currie CorrectLynk setup can be trimmed down to fit a TJ with a low lift? Sure, it's a custom setup and probably voids the warrenty, but who breaks a Correctlynk? This actually has me pretty spun up!
 
Yeah I believe it would need trimmed at stock cuz the threaded portion of the draglink and pitman tie rod are almost touching each other in the adjustment sleeve with my 1" lift.
 
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I really need to measure my coils today to see if I have a little lift or not been so busy. I want to upgrade the front end but don't want to get into lift till I put in different axles, I'm riding on 3.7 ratio with 31 inch tires [emoji52]

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StG58 said:
NOW we're getting some place. :) If I understand your comment correctly, @AOR, the Currie CorrectLynk setup can be trimmed down to fit a TJ with a low lift? Sure, it's a custom setup and probably voids the warrenty, but who breaks a Correctlynk? This actually has me pretty spun up!
Click to expand...

The noteI posted above, is directly from Currie's site.
 
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Besides being able to recenter the steering wheel you also need to pay attention to the angle of the TRE and DLE at less than recommended lift heights . Currie's steering is designed to have all of the ends at their correct working angle at Currie's recommended lift height. Look at the drag link end, it is angled so it will be squared up with the pitman. The curve in the other end of the drag link is so the tie rod end is squared up with the knuckle at Currie's reccomemded height . It also must be bump stopped at correctly to avoid over extending the fore mentioned ends at full suspension compression. The amount of bump stop extension required to accomplish this on less than recommended lifts could also make it impractical on smaller lifts because of the loss of up travel just to protect the ends correctly.
 
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Thank you for that info! I was seriously considering running the currie steering and just modifying the TRE lengths to make it fit my stock height suspension, but now that you brought up the TRE angles it appears it would create more problems than fix on a stock TJ. Thanks for saving me $500+!
 
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Gizmo said:
Besides being able to recenter the steering wheel you also need to pay attention to the angle of the TRE and DLE at less than recommended lift heights . Currie's steering is designed to have all of the ends at their correct working angle at Currie's recommended lift height. Look at the drag link end, it is angled so it will be squared up with the pitman. The curve in the other end of the drag link is so the tie rod end is squared up with the knuckle at Currie's recommended height . It also must be bump stopped at correctly to avoid over extending the fore mentioned ends at full suspension compression. The amount of bump stop extension required to accomplish this on less than recommended lifts could also make it impractical on smaller lifts because of the loss of up travel just to protect the ends correctly.
Click to expand...
Well said, glad to have you here Gizmo!
 
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Here is another option. Try the Rough Country heavy duty tie rod (PN 1143). It works with the stock TJ TRE and DRE unlike using the ZJ parts where you need TRE and DRE that have larger diameter threads. I Emailed Crown asking about the construction of their heavy duty kit, specifically the origins of the TRE and DRE and they replied with some mumbo jumbo about meeting their specifications. I don't want to replace the TRE or DRE often so I went with MOOG components from Rock Auto.

Good luck,

Dan
 
I recently bought a TJ, that has a 4" lift. It was done correctly, and uses the factory links and ends . I had an alignment and new shocks and damper installed (nothing fancy or expensive and I'm not having any issues. I understand the idea of flex and the design of the TJ coil spring suspension, but every Jeep I've owned prior to the TJ was a leaf spring design and I loved it. Easy to work on, and I never had any issues whatsoever with it. Personally, im tempted to take off the coil spring system and install a leaf spring suspension. My CJ5 , CJ7, Commando, and YJ went off road regularly and I never had any problems whatsoever with them. My biggest problem was breaking U-joints in the drive shafts. Yeah, they road a little rougher than the TJ, but I used good components, kept tire pressures checked, and the wheels balanced. 35 in. Gumbo Monster Mudders we're great except for sand. Anyone know if there are kits to make the transition from coil to leaf ?
 
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