I just went through this with my '05 LJ last week when I replaced the valve cover gasket. It's kind of a bugger, even with the 3" body lift that's on my Jeep. I can't imagine what a pain it would be on a stock Jeep with no BL. There's a nut on a stud (or a bolt) on the opposite side that holds that horseshoe shaped harness down tight to the top of the valve cover. Remove that first, then the harness just pulls off the stud on the driver side. I also pulled the injector harness "track" off the suds along the side so I could pull everything up a little higher. You have to kind of wedge it up out of the way while you wirk under it to tighten the bolts on the back end of the VC.
I used a variety of different socket, extension and u-joint combinations, but I think for those, what worked best (as best I can recall) was a 1/4 drive, a 1" extension and a deep well socket. That's me going from memory, but the access back there is definietely tight. I hate to say it, but you kind of just have to feel around back there until you find what you need and do most of it blind, by feel.
Hopefully that's helpful. Good luck!