I like the Eastwood 2k epoxy primer spray cans for stuff like this. My home made trailer hitch mount I made to attach to the frame of my yamaha quad doesn't have a speck of rust or missing paint after 5 years parked outside.
Tips for painting raw metal bumpers
- Thread starter Rustynj
- Start date
I like the Eastwood 2k epoxy primer spray cans for stuff like this. My home made trailer hitch mount I made to attach to the frame of my yamaha quad doesn't have a speck of rust or missing paint after 5 years parked outside.
I followed @Jerry Bransford advise on painting. Worked really well in my opinion. Check out my slides, I feel the paint
held up pretty good considering it was on it's side.
held up pretty good considering it was on it's side.
Here's what I would do...
1) Wipe down metal with acetone or aqueous degreaser (avoid alcohol, as most contaminants you're likely to encounter are going to be polar, for which acetone is more appropriate)
2) Scuff with green or red Scotch Brite pad, wiping with a fresh cloth as you go
3) Before the metal flash rusts, coat with at least one coat of self-etching primer... self-etching will help cut through any flash rust that develops (even the stuff you can't see)
4) OPTIONAL: coat with any automotive grade primer if you want a smoother finish or want to increase corrosion protection. Self-etching primer, as the name suggests, does indeed "etch" the surface; it's great for adhesion but poor for corrosion protection as it typically doesn't have the same levels of zinc as a non-etching primer.
5) Coat with paint of choice - I like VHT Epoxy for stuff like this (https://www.vhtpaint.com/specialty/vht-epoxy-all-weather-paint)
6) Regardless of whatever paint you use, coat within specific recoat time frame.
1) Wipe down metal with acetone or aqueous degreaser (avoid alcohol, as most contaminants you're likely to encounter are going to be polar, for which acetone is more appropriate)
2) Scuff with green or red Scotch Brite pad, wiping with a fresh cloth as you go
3) Before the metal flash rusts, coat with at least one coat of self-etching primer... self-etching will help cut through any flash rust that develops (even the stuff you can't see)
4) OPTIONAL: coat with any automotive grade primer if you want a smoother finish or want to increase corrosion protection. Self-etching primer, as the name suggests, does indeed "etch" the surface; it's great for adhesion but poor for corrosion protection as it typically doesn't have the same levels of zinc as a non-etching primer.
5) Coat with paint of choice - I like VHT Epoxy for stuff like this (https://www.vhtpaint.com/specialty/vht-epoxy-all-weather-paint)
6) Regardless of whatever paint you use, coat within specific recoat time frame.
I hate to revive an old thread but this has most of the information that I'm referencing.
What additional suggestions for doing this in the cold months? I got my new GR sliders in and want to get them ready for install. With our current weather, I can probably have my garage around 50-55F for the time to apply coats. I could bring them in the laundry room at night once they are pretty dry, but obviously it's going to be difficult to bring sliders with fresh paint inside without damaging it in some way. (I'm also considering pulling my mower out of the shed and putting a heater in there for this as it will be smaller (120sq-ft vs 800) and easier to heat.
What additional suggestions for doing this in the cold months? I got my new GR sliders in and want to get them ready for install. With our current weather, I can probably have my garage around 50-55F for the time to apply coats. I could bring them in the laundry room at night once they are pretty dry, but obviously it's going to be difficult to bring sliders with fresh paint inside without damaging it in some way. (I'm also considering pulling my mower out of the shed and putting a heater in there for this as it will be smaller (120sq-ft vs 800) and easier to heat.
Keep the paint inside your house. After prepping the slider bring it inside to warm up to your house temps. When ready to paint, take each piece out and paint it in garage or shed. The time between coats and the drying time will be longer.
Usually the can will say something like light coats a few minutes apart. It’s tougher to know when to add another coat when it’s cold. I just guess somewhere around 5-10 min. Your main problem will be laying too much paint down too soon and causing a run, so light coats and 5-10 minutes in between may be a good rule of thumb. You’re also fighting the steel getting cold now that it’s in the garage. Look at the appearance of the paint when it lays down and then note the difference a few minutes later can also help gauge.
That's good advice. @bbaldwin237 Since you have to paint in the garage, bring it up to temp and leave it there for a while. Guys I know who do professional work will set the temp the night before so that everything is nice and stable for paint day. Be mindful of the heat source, too, since you don't want to be blowing potential contaminants into the air. Above all, read the product instructions before and follow.
Two notes: my wife would kill me nor would I want to do anything to bring paint fumes into the house.
Two...a lot of heat sources can ignite flammable things... possibly certain spray paints. Look at induction heaters...much better about keeping what you're painting warm.
-Mac
Two...a lot of heat sources can ignite flammable things... possibly certain spray paints. Look at induction heaters...much better about keeping what you're painting warm.
-Mac
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Yes, the heaters I will be using are ceramic style heaters with no open flame or fan.
Mac, luckily I can get it done mostly early in the day and let it sit and dissipate. Then the laundry room is right by the garage and has it's own vent fan. And she's very patient with me! lol
I assume that's a propane unit. If so, just know those add moisture into the air, which may or may not be a problem, depending on local conditions.
I don't know what kind of "paint booth" you're working with, but a simple box fan with house filter taped to it in the right location can help control overspray and give the air a little movement. Downdraft works best, but it's all dependent on your area.
Sorry, not ceramic
, infrared. They're not the best or most effective, but they heat the garage decent, though not quickly or too hot. I was on another website reading about heaters this morning and had ceramic in my head. No propane, no open flame, no internal fan blowing dust, and no added moisture.
DuckNut
TJ Enthusiast
Sorry, not ceramic
Moisture will start to occur when you turn your heater on in the cold space. It will be much lower after it has been warmed to temp for a period of time. That is why it is important to start heating the day before.
DuckNut
TJ Enthusiast
And if you use the torch to dry it after it is painted you will end up with original Mopar texturing.
It isn't so much the heater but metal,glass and other objects colder than ambient temps will draw moisture out of the air. Heaters without a dehumidifier will do that to most of your stuff depending on your humidity. It is why air conditioning needs condensate drains
DuckNut
TJ Enthusiast
Don't disagree with your observations. Once you add heat to a cold room you get condensation. No different than opening the freezer and seeing the steam.
Well, we'll see how it turns out. Shed has been holding around 54-57 degrees. Started with sliders and paint at house temp, about 70. Got a few coats of satin black down. I went with a "rust preventer" outdoor paint from Ace. Seemed like the best option for what was available. And I wanted something that I could get locally for when I get my bumpers and for touchups. It says safe to the touch in an hour but I'll leave them hanging for a few hours and then bring them inside this evening to finish curing.
Side note, ventilation could have been better! But, I needed to keep as much heat as possible inside.
Side note, ventilation could have been better! But, I needed to keep as much heat as possible inside.
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