Tips in preparation to install SYE?

jazngab

jazngab

Done but not quite finished
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So I’m planning to tackle installing a SYE myself in the next month or so. I’d like to know if anyone has any tips or advice before going in. I’m going to start gathering parts and tools needed over the next couple weeks. Also, do you guys recommend installing with the transfer case in vs removing it for install? Below is a list of things I plan on buying based on my research on the forums and YouTube:

-Advanced adapters SYE kit
-Tom woods drive shaft for Dana 44
-Currie adjustable rear upper CAs (single vs double adjustable??)
-pair of snap ring pliers
-new transfer case chain?
-RTV


Anything else that would make the install go smoother? Many people online say it’s a fairly easy install, just time consuming. Looks fairly involved to me.

Will I have any drive shaft fitment issues with new drive shaft?
How difficult is it setting the correct angles?
Sorry I have a lot of questions but I was on the fence about paying a shop to do it which I was quoted $1500 parts and labor. If I do it myself I’ll spend approximately $900 in parts. Thanks for any help in advance!
 
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My tips.

Take your time. Plan on it taking while. It might go easy or it might have lots a stuck bolts.

Do not rush. Forcing things together can brake things.

Decide early on if you are going to remove the transfer case or do it inplace.

If you have a fair amount of rust start spraying your favorite penetration oil 2-3 "weeks" early. (My personal favorite is 50-50 acetone and transmission fluid).

I find it helpful when doing things in my garage is to have a tv capable of playing YouTube.

Setting the angle will be the toughest thing. You might get it perfect on the first try. But you might have to do some trial and error. IE set it .... drive.... reset.... drive. This is where double adjustable are a wonderful thing to have.

Do not let me scare you away from doing it. It is very DIY friendly.
 
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If you're concerned, the $600 difference between you doing it and a shop isn't THAT much. I weigh the difficulty, time to do something, and the cost difference to pay someone to do it or not. It has to be worth the cost savings to do it myself. Like say changing a water pump for $75 vs paying someone $350. I'll do it for sure. $900 vs $1600 isn't that huge. I know it's $700 more, but it isn't even twice as much.

If you do it yourself, you have that satisfaction of knowing you did it, and $700 towards another mod.
 
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89grand said:
If you're concerned, the $600 difference between you doing it and a shop isn't THAT much. I weigh the difficulty, time to do something, and the cost difference to pay someone to do it or not. It has to be worth the cost savings to do it myself. Like say changing a water pump for $75 vs paying someone $350. I'll do it for sure. $900 vs $1600 isn't that huge. I know it's $700 more, but it isn't even twice as much.

If you do it yourself, you have that satisfaction of knowing you did it, and $700 towards another mod.
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I agree. I didn’t think $500 for labor to have it done right isn’t terrible. But I’m easily convinced to diy when everyone says it’s easy.
 
jazngab said:
I agree. I didn’t think $500 for labor to have it done right isn’t terrible. But I’m easily convinced to diy when everyone says it’s easy.
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Again I did not want to scare you away from doing it yourself. It is very doable. Lots of people do it. I have a friend who did his with no issues. He is not very knowledgeable and did it.

I was just giving you the things that "might" come up. Its better to know ahead and get prepared for them.

With you being in one of the worst rust prone areas. Its better to look at the condition of the bolts.

If you have a ton of rusted bolts you will be fighting and possibly breaking. It might be worth the money to let someone else fight it.

If you don't have and rust issues you probably won't run into problems.
 
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Boinked said:
Again I did not want to scare you away from doing it yourself. It is very doable. Lots of people do it. I have a friend who did his with no issues. He is not very knowledgeable and did it.

I was just giving you the things that "might" come up. Its better to know ahead and get prepared for them.

With you being in one of the worst rust prone areas. Its better to look at the condition of the bolts.

If you have a ton of rusted bolts you will be fighting and possibly breaking. It might be worth the money to let someone else fight it.

If you don't have and rust issues you probably won't run into problems.
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I don’t think rust is a major concern in my situation. I do believe I will do it myself. Just preparing myself for how long the Jeep will be sidelined for.
 
Personally, I'd pull the transfer case and get it on the bench. Like mentioned above, relax and take your time. Cleaning it thoroughly inside and out, replacing the chain (good plan) and all of the seals will pay dividends. While you are at it, install a TC cable shifter with some of the saved money. You will be more thorough than 99% of the hired wrenches. Many or most mechanics are racing the clock and skipping steps you would spend a good amount of time on.
 
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If you plan on lifting any higher in the future, I'll push for a JB conversions super short SYE. A longer driveshaft (lower operating angle) is always a good thing. I did mine leaving the transfercase in the jeep, IIRC I had it done in just a few hours. Ive had adjustable control arms on my jeep since 2015, and every single year I have adjusted them for some reason. Had I known this would happen, I would have sprung for the double adjustables and never looked back. They'll make setting the pinion angle a breeze, especially in the future. I picked up my pliers from NAPA:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER3152Ive used these a lot, and a guy I know who helps build jeeps on the side really liked them too and bought his own pair. Shop around though, they can be had for much cheaper. They lock into place and operate in both directions at the flip of a switch. Plus they come with numerous tips. As far as chain goes, take a look at yours and make sure it isnt stretched. I reused my original chain.

Keep a reference handy just in case. Something like a you tube video, stu offroad, or another write up. You will only have driveshaft issues if you didnt correctly measure for it. Follow the directions from Tom Wood and you will be ok. Once your arms and driveshaft are in place, cycle your suspension, you dont want to over compress the shaft or extend it to much, though Tom Wood has done enough of these to know so you should be ok. Also, keep an eye on your shocks making contact with your spring perch. Its a common issue when rotating the axle. You may have to grind the perches in order to clear the shock stem. Pinion angle isnt hard, get a angle finder from HF and take your measurements. Essentially you want the yoke on the axle to be inline with your driveshaft. Its possible to eyeball it.
 
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Agree with everything said here. A good set of snapring pliers are key, don't buy a cheap set. I actually found a used case for cheap and just did it on the bench. Taking it out isn't to bad so I would suggest that so you are not under the Jeep. Either way should work and it's not a hard job, just take your time.
 
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I have done 2 SYE's in the past. One with it under the Jeep, the other on the bench. I would do any more on the bench. A whole lot less struggle.

If the Jeep has a lot of miles on it, I would have a new chain on hand just to eliminate any unneeded delay once you crack the case open.
 
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One thing I noticed is missing from your list is an angled rear track bar bracket. Once you rock the axle back to point the pinion at the driveshaft, the track bar bracket will be tilted way back and the track bar probably won't go in.

I'm getting ready to tackle it this weekend, might even start tonight or do a couple hours in the morning before work.

Here's my parts list:
JB Conversions super short SYE
BlueMonkey speedohealer
Savvy double adjustable aluminum upper control arms (already have RC adjustable lowers)
JKS track bar and angled bracket
Alloy USA drive chain
Timken front output seal

I'm going to do it in the vehicle because it's 6 or so more bolts and a shift linkage that I won't have to mess with, and I'm a skinny punk that struggles with handling a gearbox while laid out under a Jeep. I might pull it out if I had a 2 post lift and could manhandle it standing up. I'm gonna pull the rear up on ramps so I'll just about be able to sit under there to do the work. Then I'll roll it off the ramps and do the full setup procedure for the rear arms (setting and centering the bump stops, setting pinion angle, squaring the axle) before I measure for the driveshaft (obviously the pinion angle will be a little bit of guesswork).
 
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Do I need to wait for the SYE to be installed before I can measure yoke to yoke for the new driveshaft? Or is there a way to premeasure the stock setup and order the correct length drive shaft in advance? I’m trying to avoid having to wait a week or more for a new Tom woods drive shaft to arrive.

Also I ordered this advance adapters kit off amazon since it was $40 cheaper than other sites. Pretty sure it’s the right one.

A44AD483-34B9-4F1E-853C-1AF02E12E91E.jpeg
 
jazngab said:
Do I need to wait for the SYE to be installed before I can measure yoke to yoke for the new driveshaft? Or is there a way to premeasure the stock setup and order the correct length drive shaft in advance? I’m trying to avoid having to wait a week or more for a new Tom woods drive shaft to arrive.

Also I ordered this advance adapters kit off amazon since it was $40 cheaper than other sites. Pretty sure it’s the right one.

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Call Tom Woods. He will walk you through how to measure your stock setup and possibly ask other questions. I ordered my driveshaft through him prior to installing SYE. When I got it, it fit perfectly.
 
You need a LARGE pair of GOOD Lock Ring Pliers.
Snap Ring Pliers usually just have the pins to go in the holes of snap rings.
Lock Ring Pliers are specifically designed to grip and spread the retaining rings you'll find on the NP231 shafts.
Round pin snap ring pliers will frustrate you to no end, when a nice set of lock ring pliers will make this job a breeze.

I'm sure there are other names for them, so here is a picture of what I mean.

085432020918.png
 
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