TJ / LJ Rubicon locker defeat

psrivats

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This is copied from http://www.wanderingtrail.com/Mods/TJLJmods/Locker_Defeat.htm

Just wanted to make sure the information is not lost. @Chris feel free to remove this post if you think it will have issues with copyright.


Rubicon Locker Bypass
The Rubicon came with lockers, but DC decided to add a little bit of safety. So you can't engage them above 10 mph, at 45 mph they disengage (45 in 4-low = scary), and you have to be in 4-low. Well I didn't like this idea of having to be in 4-low to engage them. I like my options. I don't think that I will need to use it anytime in the near future, but since I had the parts I figured why not install it. Now this installation just overrides the shifter position and nothing else. So you still have the requirement of being under 10 mph to engage and they will automatically disengage at 45 mph.

Additional Parts:
Wire
Wire end connectors
Safety switch (Pilot PL-SW26)
Tools Needed:
Soldering Gun/ solder
small flat tip screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Drill


Installation:
First thing I did was figure out where I wanted to mount the switch. A few others mounted it down by the 4wd shift lever, but since I had my CB box in behind there I couldn't put it there. So I looked at that flat spot on the dash where the air bad switch goes on the 2003's. Close and convenient to the locker switch, so I wouldn't need to run wires a long distance.​
So once again I disconnected the battery and slowly pulled up the defroster panel.​
fb7167e6_small.jpg
I then removed the 2 center surround screws and pull off the center dash surround.​
fb7167e4_small.jpg
Now you will need to remove the switch panel. Unscrew the 4 screws and pull it out.​
LOCK_2_small.jpg
I found this switch at Autozone for $10. Now while it isn't waterproof, I would be a little less concerned about the switch if I was into water waist deep inside the Jeep.​
LOCK_1_small.jpg
I looked at the back of the flat area, and marked the position for the switch and drilled the hole. After I got the switch mounted I turned my attention to the locker switch.​
LOCK_3_small.jpg
LOCK_4_small.jpg
I already new that I needed to ground the red and white wire to the black wire via the override switch, but I didn't want to splice into the wires. I carefully looked at the locker harness and saw that I could open it up with a small screwdriver. Once I got the harness open I could see that there was enough room to insert a wire down along the original wires next to the metal connector. This would give me good contact and not damage any wires. I carefully installed connectors on the ends of 2 wires and then stripped and soldered the ends of the others. I gave it just a light solder to allow the wires to flatten out so that I could install them. I was able to put the wires in to the harness without this step. Close the harness back up after you get the wires down inside.​
LOCK_5_small.jpg
LOCK_6_small.jpg
LOCK_7_small.jpg
The great thing is 4 yanks and the only thing left is a switch. No signs that wires were ever installed. Now once you have everything hooked up, time to test. I did this in my garage, (open the door). Start it up, flip the switch and hit the lockers. It was nice to see the lockers come on in 2wd. Okay turn everything back off and put it all back together.​
LOCK_8_small.jpg
LOCK_9_small.jpg

Here is a diagram showing the other ways to wire in this switch. I don't take credit for this diagram.

locker.jpg

After having this installed for a few months, I still haven't used it. I like having the option. I will be moving the switch when I install my power converter. I will probably place it down by the 4wd shift lever like a few others.



Independent Locker Control by Ken White (used with permission)​

Independent control of the Front and Rear Lockers is accomplished by adding 2 Single Pole, Single Throw (SPST) switches, some jumper wires, and connectors to the existing Axle Lock Switch and/or wiring located in the center console.

As with most electrical installations, the first thing that should be done is to disconnect the battery’s negative terminal connection from the battery.

Inside the TJ’s cockpit, gently pull back and up on the defroster ventilation panel located between the windshield and dash. It should easily unsnap without much effort.

fb7167e6_small.jpg
fb7167e4_small.jpg
Once the vent is out of the way, you will see two ź” Hex/Phillips head screws located on the top of the center console. Remove these and then gently pull the center console facade straight out and upward – it is held in place by 4 spring clips so hold the top and bottom when performing this task.

Once the console facade has been removed, remove the four ź” Hex/Phillips head screws holding the switch panel in place. Pull the switch panel out and you will now have access to the connections needed to accomplish this modification.

fb7167e1_small.jpg

The schematic shows the electrical connections that need to be made for this modification. The switches I used are from AutoZone. The manufacturer is Pilot, the P/N is PL-SW26, and the type is Racing Switch with Safety Cover – about $10.00 each. I put both switches in the vacant Passenger Air Bag On/Off switch area.

Connect a jumper wire from Pin 1, or the BK Wire, located on the back of the Axle Lock Switch to the same contact on both switches. Then connect a jumper wire from the other contact on the Front Locker Switch to Pin 7, or the VT/DB Wire. The remaining Switch will control the Rear Locker, so connect a jumper wire from the remaining switch contact to Pin 6, or VT/LG wire. This completes the modification.

fb7167e0_small.jpg

Connect the negative battery terminal back to the battery and test. Insert the key into the ignition and turn on one of the switches. You should hear the pump engage and then turn off as well as well see the dash indicator light flashing or in steady on state. Turn the switch off and the light should extinguish. Test the other switch. If everything looks good, put everything back together in the reverse of taking it apart.

fb7167d9_small.jpg

Rear Engage​
fb7167f1_small.jpg

Rear Indication​
fb7167dd_small.jpg

Front Engage​
fb7167f7_small.jpg

Front Indication​
Theory of Operation

(See section 8W-31-12, 13, 14, and 15, and 8W-80-5 of the FSM)

Theory.jpg
locker2.jpg
Since the Relays always have power applied to the D4 and D13 connection, applying a ground to D6 or D11 will cause the Rear and Front Locker Relay to energize, respectively. Once energized, voltage will be supplied to the Rear or Front Locker Pumps. They will turn on until 5 PSI of pressure is achieved, and then the pump will turn off – assuming no air leaks.

The two switches basically bypass the existing Axle Lock Switch and control the Front and Rear Locker Relays independently, as well as sending a Logic “0” to the Instrument Cluster (EMIC). The Front and Rear Locker Indicator lamps function exactly the same as originally designed: slow flashing when lockers are engaged without the axles actually being locked, and steady on when the lockers are fully locked and have sent an additional ground signal to the EMIC.

Two important things to recognize about this modification:

1. The switches bypass all safety interlocks, so the lockers can be engaged at any speed, and in any transfer case setting, and will almost certainly not disengage when going over 45 mph.

2. The Locker Relays always have voltage applied to them, even when the key is out, so the switches must be returned to the open position when not in use. If not returned to the Off position, then there is a possibly of running the battery down if there is a leak in the air lines and the pumps continue to cycle, and/or damaging the pumps.

This modification is performed at your own risk, and I in no way assume any responsibility if you break your drive train using this modification foolishly.

Now that all that legal junk has been said, this modification works well and allows great flexibility when playing!

Ken

Independent Locker Control LED Diagram by Greg Donohoe (used with permission)​

Greg worked out this trick LED setup for the independent locker control.

GregDLEDDia.jpg
 

derekmac

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This was one of the first mods I did to my Rubi. I went with the under 10mph in any position one.
 

Chris

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Thanks Sri, I had been meaning to put this here for a while.

Given how ancient the Wandering Trail site is, I have to wonder how much longer it will still exist!

Looks like someone made it with Microsoft Front Page in the early 90s.
 
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psrivats

psrivats

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Thanks Sri, I had been meaning to put this here for a while.

Given how ancient the Wandering Trail site is, I have to wonder how much longer it will still exist!

Looks like someone made it with Microsoft Front Page in the early 90s.
I have a thing for old simpler websites (you know that already). They load fast and don't have ads and the information is to the point. I did not have much time this AM, but I want to reformat what I copy pasted so that the pics and the table look nicer. Will do that later ..
 

Chris

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I have a thing for old simpler websites (you know that already). They load fast and don't have ads and the information is to the point. I did not have much time this AM, but I want to reformat what I copy pasted so that the pics and the table look nicer. Will do that later ..
Oh yes, I noticed the table needed reformatting as well.

Basic sites are easier to navigate, I agree.

But, when I see sites this old, I also worry that at some point the guy who owns it is going to get so old they forget about it (or die), and then the domain will eventually lapse, and the information will cease to exist.

Losing information like that to the sands of time is tragic! Of course maybe I'm worrying about nothing, but I've actually seen it happen to a number of sites used to visit. The site owners got old, lost interest, forgot about the site, and eventually they stopped paying for their domain name. The domain name lapsed, the web hosting got cancelled, and the information just disappeared entirely.
 
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psrivats

psrivats

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Oh yes, I noticed the table needed reformatting as well.

Basic sites are easier to navigate, I agree.

But, when I see sites this old, I also worry that at some point the guy who owns it is going to get so old they forget about it (or die), and then the domain will eventually lapse, and the information will cease to exist.

Losing information like that to the sands of time is tragic! Of course maybe I'm worrying about nothing, but I've actually seen it happen to a number of sites used to visit. The site owners got old, lost interest, forgot about the site, and eventually they stopped paying for their domain name. The domain name lapsed, the web hosting got cancelled, and the information just disappeared entirely.
Oh yeah, I have seen that happen WAAAAAY too many times. These days all information I think is useful gets stored either on my computer (and backed up on google storage) and/or in my gmail so that I can access it anywhere I have an internet connection.
 

Chris

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Oh yeah, I have seen that happen WAAAAAY too many times. These days all information I think is useful gets stored either on my computer (and backed up on google storage) and/or in my gmail so that I can access it anywhere I have an internet connection.
Yep, I don't blame you. I have multiple backups for this site that occur on a nightly basis. It gets backed up to the VPS server it's hosted on, as well as Amazon S3 cloud servers as well.

I also do weekly backups where I store it on my local external hard drive as well. Better safe than sorry!
 

Mike_H

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I did this mod a long time ago. Its great...

As far as losing sites...there are web archives out there (I use web.archive, search google for the wayback machine) that maintain copies of websites that are long since defunct. One of the last things I found was the "how to" on finding your CoG. Its linked a LOT when talking about the 4-link calculator (@Chris that is another file you should find and hold onto).

just more proof that those naked pictures you posted when you were drunk and in college are never really gone!
 
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Chris

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I did this mod a long time ago. Its great...

As far as losing sites...there are web archives out there (I use web.archive, search google for the wayback machine) that maintain copies of websites that are long since defunct. One of the last things I found was the "how to" on finding your CoG. Its linked a LOT when talking about the 4-link calculator (@Chris that is another file you should find and hold onto).

just more proof that those naked pictures you posted when you were drunk and in college are never really gone!
I've used https://archive.org, but the problem is that it doesn't cache every site out there, and even when it does, it sometimes only does it once every few months or so. Still, it's come in handy on occasion.

4-link calculator? I'm not sure I've seen that one before.
 
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psrivats

psrivats

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jjvw

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The most recent version of the link calculator has both the front and rear on the same worksheet.

I recall the numbers being very different than the older separate versions, which made me question the specifics of what I was learning. However, the calculator will still show the concepts. This is all that really matters, since no one should be building a suspension from a spreadsheet.
 
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Mike_H

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The most recent version of the link calculator has both the front and rear on the same worksheet.

I recall the numbers being very different than the older separate versions, which made me question the specifics of what I was learning. However, the calculator will still show the concepts. This is all that really matters, since no one should be building a suspension from a spreadsheet.
Don't know that I've seen that one...
 

Rubicon John

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Is this the latest info available, I want to do this mod but I can’t decide which setting I want and I was wondering if I can just leave the stock switch in place or if it’s advantageous to put a couple new switches in.
 

Chris

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Is this the latest info available, I want to do this mod but I can’t decide which setting I want and I was wondering if I can just leave the stock switch in place or if it’s advantageous to put a couple new switches in.
If I were to do it, I would put new switches in place and have each locker controlled by a separate switch. I believe @Jerry Bransford has done this on his.

It's much easier to wire (and way more intuitive) to have each locker on it's own circuit as oppose to the factory switch.

I think @Jerry Bransford also figured out a way to wire them up so that the factory locker lights in the gauge cluster work when they come on as well. I'd love to see a write-up on that! A lot of people would find it helpful I suspect.
 

Jerry Bransford

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A separate on-off switch for each locker is a better way to go so you can select which locker you actually need. Just the front, just the rear, or both at your discretion.

Wiring the compressor for each locker is no more complex than wiring a 12v light bulb with a simple on-off switch. Two switches next to the OEM locker switch works well.

Done like this engaging the locker will cause the light for that locker to flash so long as the locker is engaged. It will not go solid. I actually like that, it reminds me what's going on. There is a circuit that can be grounded when the locker is engaged to cause the light to go solid, I discovered that right after I discovered you can't just ground the locker sensor to tell the computer the locker is locked... the computer is not happy when that lead is grounded when the locker is off. Grounding that lead just takes a simple DPST switch... one side to engage the locker, the other side to ground the lead to cause the locker lights to go solid. If you care about that, which I no longer do.

This is how my switches are installed.

Locker Switches 2.JPG
 

Chris

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That makes a lot of sense. I too think I'd like it more if the locker light was flashing when they were engaged as oppose to solid. That way you don't ever forget they are on or anything.
 

Rubicon John

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Thank you both for your responses. The thing is, my locker indicators flash before the locker itself engages. Sometimes I have to begin driving for a few feet before it goes solid. This would make me wonder what was going on if it were blinking at all times. Is this normal?
 

Rubicon John

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@Jerry Bransford , do Pin 1 and Pin 4 have to be jumped together first regardless, in addition to mounting the switches to Pins 6 and 7?

I understand how to wire it, it just looks like the how-to is broken into a 1st step and a 2nd step. If I'm reading correctly, I jump the pins in one of the ways shown up in the first diagrams, and then I wire Pins 6 and 7 to the switches after that. Am I correct?