Ok I'm new and not so smart, tough to admit I blame it on the cancer and Chemo. I decided to purchase an old 99 wrangler and chase a childhood dream it was running like a champ. Then I decided to wash the engine compartment. It now turns over but won't start. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
TJ won’t start after washing engine
- Thread starter 4TR
- Start date
You in a good spot to let it dry? Hood up, sunny day might just be the easy fix. Not as familiar with the ignition on the 99 looking at the distributor area would be my first place to inspect, open up and make sure it’s dry.
…and if it looks damp shake it out and spray it with WD-40.
If it still will not start, you may have toasted a sensor somewhere.
And I can relate on the cancer. Are your through it?
Spray some carb cleaner or starting fluid in the throttle body and see if it coughs off...that'll help determine if it's spark or fuel.
-Mac
-Mac
Getting better have a scan today God is great
gasiorv
I'm a new world samurai, and a redneck nonetheless
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
99 has distributor and coil on the Passenger side of the engine. Start there, as said above pop the distributor cap off and see if there is moisture in the cap. If no moisture, check to see if you have spark at one of the plugs, if not then test your coil to see if the coil is bad or if is the distributor. You can test the coil with a multimeter. If you have spark and coil is good, then check fuel pressure (but if it quit working after you sprayed water in the engine compartment, it is probably electrical). Then if you have spark and you have fuel pressure, start disconnecting all the sensors, TPS, CPS, etc.. and see if there is any water present.
JKP
TJ Addict
Almost certainly a wet distributor cap. A spare cap is always nice to have on hand, as well as WD40.
Too late now, but when cleaning an engine bay it is best to cover sensitive electronics with a grocery bag or something similar. Alternator, battery, distributor, coil, PDC, PCM, I'd try to avoid moisture on all of those items.
All of the above. Think about just replacing cap and rotor and plugs. Then you know for sure whats in there.
When I buy a used vehicle it gets all the tune-up stuff unless I know the seller well and they tell me that was all done.
Cap and rotor, plugs, wires if they look suspect, all fluids get changed, ALL fluids (ok, maybe not washer fluid and gas).
Bought a car for my kid and it had 3 different kinds of spark plugs in it.
When I buy a used vehicle it gets all the tune-up stuff unless I know the seller well and they tell me that was all done.
Cap and rotor, plugs, wires if they look suspect, all fluids get changed, ALL fluids (ok, maybe not washer fluid and gas).
Bought a car for my kid and it had 3 different kinds of spark plugs in it.
WD40 is great for driving moisture out. Since it's a 1999 I'd investigate the distributor cap. I wash my engine regularly and don't cover anything. But, if mine had a distributor, I'd keep the water away from it.
I have the same issue with my 89 Yj. Any water in the engine bay ends up in the distributor. I keep a screwdriver and a can of wire dry in the center console o when it happens. I avoid puddles.
My best guesses would either you soaked the distributor, a sensor, or you caused a short somewhere. My old YJ did this after a wash. All I did was open the hood and remove the cap to the distributor. and let the dang thing dry out. put a fan under the engine to help evaporation. I would start by spraying some carb cleaner or starting fluid into the intake and see if it tries to start. that would tell you the plugs are firing. The ECU is very basic and rlly only controls the injectors and I think it helps with the spark timing as well. Dont remember. If the ecu is not working, it wont fire the injectors. If the distributor aint working, the plugs wont fire. Hope this helps
The classic cause is, as several others have already said, a flooded distributor. I've done it myself a time or two on various vehicles.
One other tip for engine bay detailing, once you're done with the wash, use either a high powered leaf blower or an air compressor to blow out as much of the moisture as you can from all of the crevices and especially any wiring, distributor, spark plug holes, etc. That could be the difference in a situation like this.
Modern, non distributor vehicles should not be affected by an engine washing. Distributor equipped vehicles often are affected by water depending on the design. Done it myself. I wouldn't want a Jeep that is seriously affected by water on the engine. I do stream crossings from time to time so water issues are not good as far as I am concerned. I keep my engines pretty clean. I wash the engine carefully though and don't put the pressure washer wand too close to anything I don't want to get much water into.
Might not be a water issue.
With high pressure spray, you could have knocked something loose or broke a wire.
With high pressure spray, you could have knocked something loose or broke a wire.
Similar threads
