Rear inner fender liners cleaned and re-installed:

And we got a most of the engine accessories cleaned up and back on:

Just waiting on a new AC compressor to put the belt on...
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Rear inner fender liners cleaned and re-installed:
View attachment 116906

And we got a most of the engine accessories cleaned up and back on:
View attachment 116907

Just waiting on a new AC compressor to put the belt on...
I looked farther back in this thread and couldn't tell if it was mentioned, but I dig that little jeep grill on the valve cover!
I used raptor liner on my mustang restoration and it is holding up great. I recommend using their adhesion promoter (grip 4) along with scuffing to ensure that it sticks. To help ensure that the sheen is even on large surfaces, increase the distance to about 18” and go over the entire thing one last time at the end.
Got the fuel door installed:

And we worked on the sound bar. First packed it with fiber fill:


Audio wiring for early TJ's:

The PO had cut off the connectors in the sound bar and seriously just twisted the bare wires around the speaker terminals. If you don't know, there are better ways to splice and terminate. I prefer to solder and use shrink tube:



The Polk DB652's will fit into early TJ sound bars (despite what Crutchfield tells you), but you will need to drill a new set of holes:


Now to find a replacement dome light lens, they must be made of gold or something, people asking $40 for them on ebay...
Tail lights and tail gate installed. If you are wondering about tail light wiring, this is what I figured:
Violet/Black = Backup
Black/Yellow = Running lights
Green/Red & Brown/Red = Stop & Turn

Tail lights are Grote 55202
Hinges are Kentrol Stainless steel

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Got the cowl on, then immediately remembered that it will need to come off again to put the hood hinges on...

And the Windshield is on as well with new Kentrol Stainless hinges, the fit OK, but I did have to grind a little on one to get them to fit right.

First the rubber trim went back on around the glass:


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We got the polk DB 522's installed into the dash with adapters from Crutchfield, we had to trim a piece of sheet metal off to get them in (don't see this mentioned much, so it was a surprise):

And we started to re-assemble the grill:

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As always, looking fantastic! No cutting corners here. Looking brand new
We got clean brake lines with our frame, so we are reusing those from the distribution block down, but need to make new lines from the master to the distribution block.

Research showed that these lines are 4 different threads, 2 metric, 2 std:

Bubble flares are new to me, some people say that the first step in the double flare process is a bubble flare, but that is actually not the correct geometry. They sell a bubble flare tool, but instead, we found these adapters to convert the master to 3/8-24 inverted flare:


If you have never done a double flare before, here are the steps:

Cut the tube to length, make sure the cut is square and de-burr the ID. Put the tube into the bar, stick out is determined by the height of the shoulder on the die:


Use the die to bulge the tubing, squeeze it until the die contacts the bar:

Then remove the die and roll the tubing back onto itself to complete the double flare. I have found that if you don't over squeeze this last step, it allows the flare to conform to the actual seat when you tighten the line in place.



And try not to forget the nut or you have to cut off your brand new flare and start over:

We used NiCopp tubing because it is very easy to flare and bend and won't rust:

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