Top coat over Steel-it

[B00mb00m]

Has anyone done a different paint on top of steel-it? I'm going to put color match on the outside of my spare carrier. I'm wondering if I need to wait until the Steel-it cures (5-10 days per back of can) before I add my color match coat?

 

[Trevlaw]

Has anyone done a different paint on top of steel-it? I'm going to put color match on the outside of my spare carrier. I'm wondering if I need to wait until the Steel-it cures (5-10 days per back of can) before I add my color match coat?

I haven't done anything over the top of it before, but I'd bet the safest thing would be to make sure it is completely cured before doing so.

Could try maybe roughing it up a bit before painting over it, it kind of had a weird, smooth texture to it once it's dry

 

[B00mb00m]

I haven't done anything over the top of it before, but I'd bet the safest thing would be to make sure it is completely cured before doing so.

Could try maybe roughing it up a bit before painting over it, it kind of had a weird, smooth texture to it once it's dry

Thanks for the feedback. I was able to get a hold of the tech support from Steel-it. He explained the reason for the long cure and concurred best to wait until fully cured which really is 10 days. The 5 days is when it can be shipped but the solvents will likely still be evaporating for closer to 2 weeks. He concurred, scuff it with 220 grit and use a similar based paint (and suggested a test panel). The color match can I have is urethane based so hopefully that's similar enough to the steel-it polyurethane.

 

[Trevlaw]

Thanks for the feedback. I was able to get a hold of the tech support from Steel-it. He explained the reason for the long cure and concurred best to wait until fully cured which really is 10 days. The 5 days is when it can be shipped but the solvents will likely still be evaporating for closer to 2 weeks. He concurred, scuff it with 220 grit and use a similar based paint (and suggested a test panel). The color match can I have is urethane based so hopefully that's similar enough to the steel-it polyurethane.

Nice, that is good to know. What was your reasoning for doing the steel it if you were planning on paint matching anyways?

I've only used it once to redo some fox 2.5's I run in the rear of my TJ. Aside from the price, $21 a can back then, I loved the paint. The black had a nice charcoal/smoke tint to it, went on super well and thick, and all three cans I used sprayed every last drop.

I was after something abrasion resistant since my tires rub the shit out of my shocks. But now after all the work for paint and the expensive steel it I've been to afraid to put the shocks back on and rub the paint off on the first corner I take lol. Thinking I might wait and put these up front when I put my 3.0 IBP's in the rear, they just look too good now

 

[B00mb00m]

Nice, that is good to know. What was your reasoning for doing the steel it if you were planning on paint matching anyways?

I've only used it once to redo some fox 2.5's I run in the rear of my TJ. Aside from the price, $21 a can back then, I loved the paint. The black had a nice charcoal/smoke tint to it, went on super well and thick, and all three cans I used sprayed every last drop.

I was after something abrasion resistant since my tires rub the shit out of my shocks. But now after all the work for paint and the expensive steel it I've been to afraid to put the shocks back on and rub the paint off on the first corner I take lol. Thinking I might wait and put these up front when I put my 3.0 IBP's in the rear, they just look too good now

Sounds like you need wider axles!

I already had Steel-it so part of it was just i wanted to try it. THe other is I'm making this spare holder "easily" removeable and plan to have it on or off as the situation calls for, wanted something really durable and Steel-it has a reputation for being the most durable spray around (though im not sure it can stand up to consistent tire rubbing). I could definitely leave it black, but i like color matched better in case i leave it on without a spare, kind of blends in more.

 

[Trevlaw]

Sounds like you need wider axles!

I already had Steel-it so part of it was just i wanted to try it. THe other is I'm making this spare holder "easily" removeable and plan to have it on or off as the situation calls for, wanted something really durable and Steel-it has a reputation for being the most durable spray around (though im not sure it can stand up to consistent tire rubbing). I could definitely leave it black, but i like color matched better in case i leave it on without a spare, kind of blends in more.

Yeah, my Jeep needs a lot of things.

Curious to see how it works out for you. I really liked the paint, and the color of their black, just wish it was cheaper. Then I'd consider doing my whole J10 with it

 

[macleanflood]

I base coated my Dana 30 with Steel-It before welding on a truss. The spray painted the whole axle satin black a couple day later with no issues. Did the base Steel It cost because I wanted the inside of the truss as coated as possible. Picture is about 3 months of snow and gravel roads and some light wheeling. (Installing new track bars.)

-Mac

 

[B00mb00m]

As a side note, I did try to weld through the steel-it a month ago on a different project. I had sprayed it like 10 minutes previous and it didn't work well. When I talked to the guy at steel it he mentioned, it really needs to be fully cured to perform well when welding through.

 

[B00mb00m]

I base coated my Dana 30 with Steel-It before welding on a truss. The spray painted the whole axle satin black a couple day later with no issues. Did the base Steel It cost because I wanted the inside of the truss as coated as possible. Picture is about 3 months of snow and gravel roads and some light wheeling. (Installing new track bars.)

-Mac

View attachment 331745

Thanks, so at least in general it seemed to bond well.

 

[sierradmax]

I've seen a bit of porosity from welding after Steel-It was fully cured. I still try to grind as much off as I can.

As for painting, I like the look of Steel-It. I may try a 2K clear as a top-coat and run with it on my axles.