Anyone knows a table/chart for how much to increase the torque values when using Anti-Seize? I'm using a 13mm and a 5/8" bolt for Buchanan seat risers. But, should would love to have a chart for all sizes.
Torque increase chart when using anti-seize?
- Thread starter nitrofalcon
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A good rule of thumb is to decrease torque 25% for clean antiseized fasteners vs. clean dry threads.
There are charts available online , but 25% less will get you where you want to be for seat brackets.
I rethought my previous assumption of a 20% reduction after watching this video.
Oof, so my headbolts have alot more than just 110 Ft lbs of torque......Not sure how to feel about that....
I never thought it made that much of a drastic difference but i now know !
I never thought it made that much of a drastic difference but i now know !
Wouldn't a torqued bolt with anti-seize be prone to loosening compared to a torqued dry bolt? I mean there's a reason that applying anti-seize to lug nuts/studs is not recommended.
Torque is only one way to measure bolt stretch and clamping force, arp antiseize is good elephant snot... Actually great when used correctly.
That’s why you don’t put grease on wheel lugs. Reduced friction results in more stretch for the same amount of turning force.
In my engineering days all of our calcs used 20%, we had generated our own standards on it. Something seems odd with this.
So this is a topic I see often. I have a CJ5 and TJ and JK.
Almost every single owner that posts on the CJ Forums, puts some antiseize on their wheel stud threads for their lug nuts.
They even point to the Napa Anti Seize bottle stating it’s use to be on wheel studs.
I’ve read more than needed where they’ve gone through Engineering forums.
The only consensus is that only used on threads, not on the mating surface.
I’m not advocating for use or not use, but I use anti seize on my CJ. I don’t on my TJ, which I acknowledge makes no freaking sense, as the laws of physics apply to both Jeeps the same way.
Yep, that is correct. Early on with the brake kits, Van had an issue with several of his customers complaining that their caliper saddles fell off along with the caliper. I chatted with a few of them and finally figured out that they were circumventing the instructions and using anti-seize instead of the supplied 271 Loctite because they didn't want them to rust the threads together. I pointed out that 271 is also a thread sealant which keeps water out of the threads and we had no more issues once they converted to the correct compound.
Too many variables there for any accuracy. If you direct the application to ONLY the threads, you wouldn't see much change. Our lug nuts are tapered. The reason they are tapered is to increase the surface area between the lug nut and the wheel to prevent loosening. Very similar to the fights we see folks run into removing the flat head screws from hinges and what not. Most like myself have seen many of the screws break every tool we used to remove them or strip out the head. Then after we drill off the head, we can thread the fastener shank out with our fingers. The threads weren't the issue but instead, the high amount of contact area between the conical head and the countersunk hole.
If you keep the AS off of the countersunk area, there shouldn't be much difference in torque being delivered and how well the nut stays tight. Some, but not much since the countersink friction is what determines most of it.
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It seems to me that if you regurly rotate tires, take off for brake work, cleaning and what not, you don't have to worry about using Anti-Seize of lug nuts.
Oh, and one more thing. Scrape off the rust and other crud from the lug nuts and threads with a good wire brush before re-assembly.
Most anti-seize brands will have documentation on the adjusted K-factor to use if using the bolt torque preload method.
Generally k=0.12 is a good place to start.
I recommend getting a poster print out of a good torque guide. Search Google for "Fastenal Torque-Tension Reference Guide" and it should be the first PDF to pop up.
One of my most heavily used resources for non-critical design work.
Generally k=0.12 is a good place to start.
I recommend getting a poster print out of a good torque guide. Search Google for "Fastenal Torque-Tension Reference Guide" and it should be the first PDF to pop up.
One of my most heavily used resources for non-critical design work.
And again, too many variables. If you rotate every 5000 miles, I know a lot of rigs that will rotate tires at greater than 1 year intervals which is ample time for rust to kill lug studs and lug nuts and that's where it all comes from.