Torque specs for the Dana 30 and Dana 35 diff covers?

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Hello Guys,
i am planning to change both fluids of my axels. I researched all around but there are so many different opinions about how to torque those diffcovers down. Some people say that 30 ftlbs are too much.

Would be awsome if you could help me
 
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ranger101

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I always snug mine down with a 1/4” ratchet. They don’t need to be TIGHT, snug will do just fine. I’ve never torqued them to a specific torque.
 
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Jerry Bransford

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Torque spec is 30 but I've broken them off at that spec. Snug is good. If you want to torque go 25.
Snug is right, the diff cover bolts only need to be tight enough to hold the cover on and to be leak free against a non-pressurized liquid.

Too many people overtighten bolts like those in the mistaken belief if tight is good tighter is better. I'd use nothing bigger than a 1/4" or 3/8" at the biggest ratchet wrench. A 1/2" ratchet wrench makes it way too easy to overtighten such bolts.
 
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Zorba

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What? Jerry you don't think "Tighten it until it breaks then back off a quarter turn" is the best technique? ;) :D

Seriously, yea, I've broken a bolt here and there over tightening in my time!
 
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afitzray97

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I dunno, maybe just everyone is defecting from jeepforum. Seems like this site is getting filled with people joining and day one asking the same questions over and over where no one even attempts searching. Makes it tough when you’re searching for info and finding a bunch of folks filling up every thread trying to kiss ass to jerry, mrblaine etc. Those guys know their stuff and I often add their name to my google searches because of that so props to them. Just would like to see this as a spot for info and not folks treating it like some trash Facebook site or being lazy when folks spent a lot of time building the sticky threads that cover the essentials. But here I am adding crap to a thread and getting sucked into the underworld...
 
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jeepins

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I dunno, maybe just everyone is defecting from jeepforum. Seems like this site is getting filled with people joining and day one asking the same questions over and over where no one even attempts searching. Makes it tough when you’re searching for info and finding a bunch of folks filling up every thread trying to kiss ass to jerry, mrblaine etc. Those guys know their stuff and I often add their name to my google searches because of that so props to them. Just would like to see this as a spot for info and not folks treating it like some trash Facebook site or being lazy when folks spent a lot of time building the sticky threads that cover the essentials. But here I am adding crap to a thread and getting sucked into the underworld...
That's what the Off Topic is for and mods here move the trash to that section when necessary.
 

jkosten

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So I am looking into this also.

Diff cover bolts: 5/16-18 grade 5

FSM states 30 Ft lbs.

Every torque chart says 150-210 inch pounds (12-17 ft lbs) depending on dry vs lubed.

I had two broken off bolts in mine from previous owner.

Could this FSM higher torque valve be to overcome the higher surface area resistance of the factory flange head bolt?

If so, when switching to aftermarket bolts with washer, I am going to try 15 ft lbs. Hopefully no more broken bolts with-out comprising clamping force.
 
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Kurt_S

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Well... this is obviously a thing. I came in to look up this exact thread because... I just sheared off a bolt head trying to get it to 30 ft/lb (per FSM) using my 1/2" torque wrench. Fortunately I was able to remove the remaining bolt by hand. I guess I'll snug the replacement down using a 1/4" rachet.
 

MichaelGH

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On fasteners such as these I tend to use a common bolt diameter/thread torque chart. There are many instances in the factory service manuals where they recommend torque way too high for the smaller fastener size/thread…
 
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JMT

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These bolts are using getting “wet” from RTV or old diff oil in the threads, so I stick to 25ft/lbs.

For those running 1/4” lower half diff guards and not running stock tailgate hinges, the tailgate bolts are a good replacement length.