Torque Specs

[Serbonze]

Let's talk about torque specs. I'm a stickler for details, my job demands it and my personality allows for it. When I'm working on the Jeep I always go and look up the proper torque spec for whatever it is I'm tightening.

We've read plenty of posts from people that say the torque spec doesn't matter and to tighten it to something along the lines of "two grunts past tight". The problem that I see with that logic is my "two grunts past tight" are not the same as your "two grunts past tight", etc. Additionally, as I'm moving through the Jeep I'm putting anti-seize on every bolt and nut that I touch, which then requires an even lower amount of torque since it's considered a lubricant.

So, who abides by the factory torque specs and who tightens until it feels tight? I'm really curious to hear everyone's opinion.

 

[Chris]

I only go by the factory torque specs for important bolts. When it comes to the little bolts holding sensors on (or even spark plugs) I know that those are only supposed to be hand tight so I don't bother with the torque wrench.

I feel you though... I'm rather OCD with lots of things so in a way I can relate to the torque spec thing as I always, always torque those important bolts (track bar bolts, axle bolts, suspension, brakes, etc.).

 

[StG58]

Torque specs are our friends... It's a pain to torque everything to spec, mostly because you have to look up the spec but it's worth it. When I worked in the shipyards for Lockheed, I had a really nice little chart taped to the inside top of my tool box that listed torque specs for all of the various sized threaded fasteners of various grades and materials. It was large, but really handy to have. Down the left side was bolt size and thread pitch. Across the top was material and bolt grade. Each square was divided in half diagonally with un-lubed torque on top left and anti-seize torque on the bottom right, or the area blanked out if anti-seize was not allowed due to the material. The uncommon stuff got looked up on the print, but all of the common stuff was right there. Easy to do in a spreadsheet, I'd guess. We didn't have PC's back then though and did the chart from Machinery's Handbook information.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

I only go by the factory torque specs for important bolts. When it comes to the little bolts holding sensors on (or even spark plugs) I know that those are only supposed to be hand tight so I don't bother with the torque wrench.

X2 exactly. I especially won't use a torque wrench on my spark plugs, I need the extra feel of my small 3/8" ratchet wrench to insure I don't overtighten them or even crack a plug insulator. My hands are plenty accurate at achieving a suitable spark plug tightness. Not to mention some may try to use a 1/2" torque wrench on something small on that which just makes it more likely to break something or strip the threads. 1/2" torque wrenches are not accurate at low torque settings like small bolts and spark plugs require.