Towing my TJ

RHanna

RHanna

TJ Enthusiast
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Gallatin, TN
Im not sure exactly how much my TJ weighs but I would guess just under or right at 4000. Using a steel dual axle trailer with brakes on both axles.

How much would you want your towing vehicle rated minimum to feel safe?

I know there are a lot of variables. I’m looking at trucks and suvs and I’m surprised how low some of them are rated.

I was thinking 7000 minimum. Of course the more the better but I’m not interested in a buying a heavy duty truck.
 
Depends on where you are towing. If staying out of the rockies a good half ton with a max tow is probably fine.

If towing in the rockies, I'm a believer in more truck. I have way too much truck now and I smile every time I go over those mountains. I overheated with the half ton I used before and lost a transmission once too.
 
The simplest calculation is:
GCVWR – curb weight – cargo – passengers = available tow weight
You will need to verify the manufactures ratings but this should give you an idea of the range you need. When you find a vehicle you will want to verify how it is equipped. Depending on the package the tow capacity can vary greatly. You may also need to consider the hitch system and whether you will need a weight distribution hitch. I'd also advise having a 15% safety margin if your going to be towing this setup regularly.
 
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I will add this as well, don't assume your Jeep is at or under 4k lbs... have all your gear in it, a full tank of gas, and go weigh it somewhere (I use a local truck weigh station that is almost never open, free!). Also weigh your trailer including tie downs/spare tire etc.

My LJ with soft top and gear sits at 4400lbs give or take a few.

You might be right about your weight estimate, but if you want to be safe towing you need to KNOW you are right.

If your Jeep is 4000lbs, and you are using say a steel 16' (length/build matters on the trailer) trailer you are likely at or above 6000lbs total weight already. Most mid sized vehicles that can tow 7k require a weight distributing hitch to do so, which by the way adds more weight to the equation. Personally I would never tow above 80% of the vehicles rated capacity for any length of time.
 
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06lj said:
The simplest calculation is:
GCVWR – curb weight – cargo – passengers = available tow weight
You will need to verify the manufactures ratings but this should give you an idea of the range you need. When you find a vehicle you will want to verify how it is equipped. Depending on the package the tow capacity can vary greatly. You may also need to consider the hitch system and whether you will need a weight distribution hitch. I'd also advise having a 15% safety margin if your going to be towing this setup regularly.
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I'd go more than that for safety. Some trucks derate based on altitude 2% per 1000' above 1000' so if you run through the 11,000 ft Eisenhower tunnel you lose 20% of your rating.
 
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With a steel trailer, you're going to be close to 7,000 pounds, once fully loaded. One thing to keep in mind for 1/2 ton truck towing is the trailer material and gear ratio. When I bought a new truck last year I was able to not spend as much on a truck, because I have an aluminum trailer, and I opted for a 3.92 gearing. Versus the standard 3.21 ratio, the 3.92 increased my tow capacity well over 3,000 pounds. The 16' double axle aluminum trailer I have weighs in at only 1,100 pounds.

Aluminum trailers do cost more, especially now, and aren't for everyone. Ignoring the trailer for now, the key point here is to not discount gearing. Especially, if you plan to regularly tow a trailer with a vehicle on it.
 
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Apparition said:
I'd go more than that for safety. Some trucks derate based on altitude 2% per 1000' above 1000' so if you run through the 11,000 ft Eisenhower tunnel you lose 20% of your rating.
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You would loose performance but the vehicles tow rating would remain the same. But yes, manufacturers do state that to match sea level performance you should calculate a 2% reduction in GCW for every 1000ft.
 
06lj said:
You would loose performance but the vehicles tow rating would remain the same. But yes, manufacturers do state that to match sea level performance you should calculate a 2% reduction in GCW for every 1000ft.
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Won't matter overheated and sitting on the side of the road.
 
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Apparition said:
Agreed, I'll likely never tow anything with a gasser again at least based on current technology.
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Every time I tow with my gasser in the PA mountains, my buddy in a diesel just walks away from me. I have to constantly call him over the radio and say....Slow down! :)
 
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Apparition said:
Agreed, I'll likely never tow anything with a gasser again at least based on current technology.
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Its interesting for sure. Back when I towed with a diesel - hit the bottom of the hill, the rig would slow down to whatever it was going to slow down to. The gas rigs would blow by - but if the hill was long enough, I'd pass them gasping and wheezing while still going whatever speed I was going when they passed me!

And then there's the ones who ride their brakes on the downhill - but that's another subject!
 
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Zorba said:
Its interesting for sure. Back when I towed with a diesel - hit the bottom of the hill, the rig would slow down to whatever it was going to slow down to. The gas rigs would blow by - but if the hill was long enough, I'd pass them gasping and wheezing while still going whatever speed I was going when they passed me!

And then there's the ones who ride their brakes on the downhill - but that's another subject!
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It's absolutely astounding what the new diesels and 8 - 10 speed automatics can do these days. I just couldn't justify the $70K cost! :cautious:
 
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Zorba said:
Its interesting for sure. Back when I towed with a diesel - hit the bottom of the hill, the rig would slow down to whatever it was going to slow down to. The gas rigs would blow by - but if the hill was long enough, I'd pass them gasping and wheezing while still going whatever speed I was going when they passed me!

And then there's the ones who ride their brakes on the downhill - but that's another subject!
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With my 1 ton Duramax diesel, with engine/compression braking... when I tow, and even with the slide in truck camper on at the same time, I just leave it in cruise control... no braking/accelerator pedal necessary even through the mountains :)
 
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Zorba said:
Its interesting for sure. Back when I towed with a diesel - hit the bottom of the hill, the rig would slow down to whatever it was going to slow down to. The gas rigs would blow by - but if the hill was long enough, I'd pass them gasping and wheezing while still going whatever speed I was going when they passed me!

And then there's the ones who ride their brakes on the downhill - but that's another subject!
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Yes, the engine brake is so nice without a dipshit in front of me.
 
06lj said:
You would loose performance but the vehicles tow rating would remain the same. But yes, manufacturers do state that to match sea level performance you should calculate a 2% reduction in GCW for every 1000ft.
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The de-rating is for more than just performance, they de-rate your supported tow capacity due to overheating issues as Apparition mentioned. Multiple truck reviews recently on YouTube where they have half ton trucks overheating in the passes while towing.
 
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Problem you get into with 3/4 ton diesels is they have *hundreds* of pounds less payload than the gasser counterparts. The higher cost of entry, emissions maintenance woes, all add up too. And then folks don't buy base model 3/4 ton diesels, they get a lariat or whatever, which adds hundreds of pounds of doodads to the curb weight=lower payload even further. Nobody looks at their door jamb stickers!
 
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chimmike said:
Problem you get into with 3/4 ton diesels is they have *hundreds* of pounds less payload than the gasser counterparts. The higher cost of entry, emissions maintenance woes, all add up too. And then folks don't buy base model 3/4 ton diesels, they get a lariat or whatever, which adds hundreds of pounds of doodads to the curb weight=lower payload even further. Nobody looks at their door jamb stickers!
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true on some of that. I can say though that for mine so far, @25k miles no issues with the truck, add fuel and DEF and go.

Also, OP asked about towing info which when towing a Jeep on a short trailer, payload won't be even close to an issue in a 3/4 ton. Makes me curious though what the tow rating would be on a half ton Chevy/GMC with the smaller Duramax instead of the V8... so I looked it up. You have multiple options even with a Crew Cab with the 3.0 Turbo Duramax to tow 9k+ which would work if towing 6500-7000 lbs.

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DaveF said:
true on some of that. I can say though that for mine so far, @25k miles no issues with the truck, add fuel and DEF and go.

Also, OP asked about towing info which when towing a Jeep on a short trailer, payload won't be even close to an issue in a 3/4 ton. Makes me curious though what the tow rating would be on a half ton Chevy/GMC with the smaller Duramax instead of the V8... so I looked it up. You have multiple options even with a Crew Cab with the 3.0 Turbo Duramax to tow 9k+ which would work if towing 6500-7000 lbs.

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The duramax 1500 payload numbers are abysmal though on the actual trucks, and honestly I would run a gasser half ton long before the small diesel if towing 7000lbs. Also, look at that GCWR on the duramax. 15000lbs. Only the lower rated 5.3 is the same, all other V8's with substantially higher GCWR.
Payload matters, as does GVWR and GCVWR. And at trailer weights over 5000lbs, half ton manufacturers probably recommend weight distributing hitches be used, too.
I moderate a facebook group of rv campers, and folks go out and buy a gladiator and want to tow a travel trailer with a dry weight of 7,000lbs. So, no propane, no batteries, and none of their shit in it, thinking "oh, we're within max trailer weight". It's purposeful ignorance and dealers and salesman aren't helping things. Dangerous.
 
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