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Track bar and tie rod: What hits, what doesn't?

Gollywomper

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Feb 9, 2019
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479
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Corning CA
I am currently running 3” bump stops due to track bar contact. Stock diff cover. I need to pull the springs again and see how much more uptravel I can use before I go cutting the arms. Just need to see what the next point of interference will be. I will post up the lengths as a guide when I get around to doing them. Hopefully this next week, depending on the weather.
 
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Gollywomper

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Feb 9, 2019
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479
Location
Corning CA
Well after removing my springs and checking clearances again. Playing with both a 255 shock and a 239. Looks like my best option is to stay with the 255 and the 3” bump stops. And raise my upper shock mount 1”. As it is now I need 1/2” more bump to match the 255s so 1” more should be good. Springs will slightly unseat but should be ok. That seems to be the best solution.
 

Alex01

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Mar 23, 2018
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Well after removing my springs and checking clearances again. Playing with both a 255 shock and a 239. Looks like my best option is to stay with the 255 and the 3” bump stops. And raise my upper shock mount 1”. As it is now I need 1/2” more bump to match the 255s so 1” more should be good. Springs will slightly unseat but should be ok. That seems to be the best solution.
Are you still planning on cutting the control arms?
 

Gollywomper

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Feb 9, 2019
Messages
479
Location
Corning CA
Are you still planning on cutting the control arms?
No I don’t think there is much there to be gained in my set up. The shock is only so long. Rancho 999255 have 9.84” of travel. So I should be ok with 4” up and 5.5” down. I don’t know enough about where travel should be to worry about changing it. Is haveing 5.5” up and 4” down worth cutting all 4 control arms down? My guess is if it was I would have noticed. I do make some high speed runs up through Mendocino, but haven’t noticed any severe bottoming out do to not enough up travel. My spring unseats by about 1.5” now so moving the shock mount up 1” should make for a pretty well balanced spring to shock travel. Looking to do something similar to what your planning on the shock tower.
How much bump extension is needed to keep those Currie coils from binding?
What have you been able to do on the rear as far as shock fitment?
 

Alex01

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No I don’t think there is much there to be gained in my set up. The shock is only so long. Rancho 999255 have 9.84” of travel. So I should be ok with 4” up and 5.5” down. I don’t know enough about where travel should be to worry about changing it. Is haveing 5.5” up and 4” down worth cutting all 4 control arms down? My guess is if it was I would have noticed. I do make some high speed runs up through Mendocino, but haven’t noticed any severe bottoming out do to not enough up travel. My spring unseats by about 1.5” now so moving the shock mount up 1” should make for a pretty well balanced spring to shock travel. Looking to do something similar to what your planning on the shock tower.
How much bump extension is needed to keep those Currie coils from binding?
What have you been able to do on the rear as far as shock fitment?
I believe I have 2 inch extensions in the rear. I have the 3.5" lift ranchos so my shock body runs a bit smaller then yours .5" yet I have about 1 inch more travel. I have not touched the rear since the only solution I believe to stuff the tires would be out boarding the shocks. Or running shocks with a smaller body I suppose.

If I get TB interference still after moving my mount I will probably end up cutting an inch or so off of the arms to try and gain clearance.

I do not know the limit of the springs as far as binding goes. @jjvw may though.
 

jjvw

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Feb 17, 2018
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Currie 4"
Front
Free Length: 22.6"
Travel: 14.1
Solid Height: 8.5"

Rear
Free Length: 17.75"
Travel: 13.25"
Solid Height: 4.5"

LJ Rear
Free Length: 18.25"
Travel: 13.75"
Solid Height: 4.5"
 

Gollywomper

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Feb 9, 2019
Messages
479
Location
Corning CA
With the front axle centered with the track bar at ride height. I notice quite a bit of axle steer when at full bump. Is this just a product of geometry not being ideal? A result of a track bar at such an angle at ride height vs when at full bump?
At full bump the track bar only shifts the axle over about an inch with a 4” lift, but enough that checking full bump needs to be done with the TB connected and axle centered to verify bumpstops for tires or steering stops needed.
 
Last edited:

jjvw

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Colorado, USA
With the front axle centered with the track bar at ride height. I notice quite a bit of axle steer when at full bump. Is this just a product of geometry not being ideal? A result of a track bar at such an angle at ride height vs when at full bump?
At full bump the track bar only shifts the axle over about an inch with a 4” lift, but enough that checking full bump needs to be done with the TB connected and axle centered to verify bumpstops for tires or steering stops needed.
Axle steer? At full bump the axle should be as square to the frame as it is at ride height or at droop. All the track bar introduces is the lateral shift throughout the travel cycle.
 

Gollywomper

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Feb 9, 2019
Messages
479
Location
Corning CA
Axle steer? At full bump the axle should be as square to the frame as it is at ride height or at droop. All the track bar introduces is the lateral shift throughout the travel cycle.
Yes lateral movement. Axle steer was the wrong way to describe that. When things are tight between tires and frame that small shift could present issues.
It’s too bad that due to the way the lower track bar mount is located that there is not and easy way to raise the lower TB mount, say 2-4” then match that with the appropriate drop pitman arm to keep the geometry correct. Flatter track bar and drag link would make for better handling. Less lateral movement through the flex cycle.
 

jjvw

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Yes lateral movement. Axle steer was the wrong way to describe that. When things are tight between tires and frame that small shift could present issues.
It’s too bad that due to the way the lower track bar mount is located that there is not and easy way to raise the lower TB mount, say 2-4” then match that with the appropriate drop pitman arm to keep the geometry correct. Flatter track bar and drag link would make for better handling. Less lateral movement through the flex cycle.
While a flatter track bar would be nice, I can't say I've ever noticed the axle shift while driving.